We were supposed to leave at 5.30am. Alejandro wasn't sure but he believed that there is a bus at 7am from San Lucas to Charcas. In that case we wouldn't have to walk for another 4 hours ... We should walk 1.5 hours for the same way we needed 2 hours last Friday. But we only left at 5.50am. Will we make it?
As it was still early in the morning and it hadn't rained a lot during last night it wasn't as muddy and slippery and we were quite good in walking. In fact, we managed the hike in only 70 minutes. And there even was the truck. Great - weren't we lucky?
2 hours later we were back in Coban, and we were looking forward to a hot shower. But in the new hotel - the other one was fully booked - they spoke about hot water ... but not in the shower. :(
We had once again a nice breakfast and were quite lazy for the rest of the day. Tomorrow we have another day in the bus and need to be fit!
Sunday, June 27, 2004
Friday, June 25, 2004
Coban - Chicacnab
At 9.45am we were at the "Ecoquetzal" office. As since South Korea we don't have our sleeping bags with us anymore, we rented a blanket each which we will certainly need during the next two days. Then we had to wait. Our Guide Alejandro was already there but ...
About an hour later we were on our way. We had to take the bus to Charca (approx. 15 minutes), and again 1.5 hours in a kind of cattle carrier. With that though they don't carry cattle but people.
At 1.30pm we started our hike from San Lucas to Chicacnab. It was supposed to take 2 - 3 hours. But it immediately started steep uphill. On top of that it was ever so muddy and soon we had big dirt blobs on our shoes. But it didn't make sense to clean them as soon we would have new ones. Although it was quite stickily, greasily and slippery and we had to be careful not to fall into the mud we enjoyed the hike.
In fact after only 2 hours we were at an altitude of 2.500m and thus in Chicacnab, where Alejandro lives. We immediately were greeted by his three boys (the youngest cannot walk yet otherwise he would have been there as well). Alejandro showed us his house, a wooden house. The floor was dirt. Ramona and I got a separate room with two beds. It was only obvious that it will be freezing cold the two next nights.
In Chicacnab, a small village of about 100 people, there is a church in which they pray every Sunday for four hours and a soccer field which is as camel-bucked and humpy that our kids would definitely not play soccer on it. Alejandro, however, was so proud to talk about it.
For lunch we got egg with beans and of course tortillas, which Angelina made on the open fire in the middle of the kitchen. We got also served coffee. And even I (Nicole) drank it as it was really good - it smelt like coffee but tasted like tea. Mmmmh!
The kids in their torn clothes and runny noses reminded us of the kids in Lhasa. They went to play soccer at 5pm and we helped Angelina doing the dishes - outside in the freezing cold with freezing cold water. As washing-up liquid she uses washing powder. Ramona and I in our fleece jackets were ever so cold but Angelina only wore a t-shirt. Brrrrr!
Back in the warm kitchen we sat around the fire. As there is no electricity we had candles. I had the little baby on my lap which didn't wear anything but a T-Shirt. It was obvious that sooner or later he would pee on me. But no-one reacted. Alejandro and Angelina only laughed about it and said "mucho agua" (lots of water)! Well, that's also a way of seeing it. :)
About an hour later we were on our way. We had to take the bus to Charca (approx. 15 minutes), and again 1.5 hours in a kind of cattle carrier. With that though they don't carry cattle but people.
At 1.30pm we started our hike from San Lucas to Chicacnab. It was supposed to take 2 - 3 hours. But it immediately started steep uphill. On top of that it was ever so muddy and soon we had big dirt blobs on our shoes. But it didn't make sense to clean them as soon we would have new ones. Although it was quite stickily, greasily and slippery and we had to be careful not to fall into the mud we enjoyed the hike.
In fact after only 2 hours we were at an altitude of 2.500m and thus in Chicacnab, where Alejandro lives. We immediately were greeted by his three boys (the youngest cannot walk yet otherwise he would have been there as well). Alejandro showed us his house, a wooden house. The floor was dirt. Ramona and I got a separate room with two beds. It was only obvious that it will be freezing cold the two next nights.
In Chicacnab, a small village of about 100 people, there is a church in which they pray every Sunday for four hours and a soccer field which is as camel-bucked and humpy that our kids would definitely not play soccer on it. Alejandro, however, was so proud to talk about it.
For lunch we got egg with beans and of course tortillas, which Angelina made on the open fire in the middle of the kitchen. We got also served coffee. And even I (Nicole) drank it as it was really good - it smelt like coffee but tasted like tea. Mmmmh!
The kids in their torn clothes and runny noses reminded us of the kids in Lhasa. They went to play soccer at 5pm and we helped Angelina doing the dishes - outside in the freezing cold with freezing cold water. As washing-up liquid she uses washing powder. Ramona and I in our fleece jackets were ever so cold but Angelina only wore a t-shirt. Brrrrr!
Back in the warm kitchen we sat around the fire. As there is no electricity we had candles. I had the little baby on my lap which didn't wear anything but a T-Shirt. It was obvious that sooner or later he would pee on me. But no-one reacted. Alejandro and Angelina only laughed about it and said "mucho agua" (lots of water)! Well, that's also a way of seeing it. :)
Wednesday, June 23, 2004
Cobán - Lanquín
This morning we were a bit lazy. We hadn't planned much for the morning anyway and only wanted to get some information on a possible hiking tour. Our bus to Lanquín only leaves at noon. Thus we stayed a bit longer in bed today. But at 8.15am we got ants in our pants. A hot shower was waiting for us - it was really hot we almost burned ourselves. But it was great anyway!
After a long and delicious breakfast we went to the office of "Ecoquetzal". We were given a folder of information on the offered tours. But unfortunately all are only for 3 days and 2 nights. Hmmm, we don't have that much time left anymore.
As time was running to get our bus we wanted to think about it and call them again tomorrow. We had five minutes to get to the bus station. It was obvious that this couldn't work. It was just obvious that this wouldn't work for us. Also because we didn't find the bus terminal immediately. When we eventually got there it was of course too late! Actually, there should be buses all the time. There were some but not to the place we wanted to go. Thus we just walked a bit further ... and even found a minibus which took us to Lanquín. On the radio we listened to the match of the Germans against the Czechs. But we would have better avoided that. :(
We arrived in Lanquín about 3.20pm - just in time to go to the cave. We quickly checked in at Posada Ilobal and were on tour again. The cave leads several kilometers into the earth but still there is not everything explored yet. The first hundred meters are signed and lighted, but still most of the underground remains untouched. The soil was very muddy and slippery. It was also unusual that in this cave it was quite hot. And we of course were still carrying our jumpers! But we were ever so happy that the cave for us was only a few hundred meters long. So many stalagmites and stalagtites. They were breathtaking. We didn't even know where to look first. The cave was very big and high and we partly felt like being lost. Yes, until all these tour groups arrived who were so loud. Gone was the calm. Still we lingered around the formations which almost all look like animals (elephant, tiger, lion, owl ...). It was almost 6pm when we left the cave.
We sat down in front of the cave's entrance and waited for the sunset. This is the time when hundreds if not thousands of bats fly out of the cave. Almost 45 minutes we sat there, listened to the rushing of the river, looked at the forest opposite of us - we thought to have seen monkeys there - and observed the many fireflies surrounding us. Then, about 6.45pm the spectacle started. In fact, lots of bats came out of the cave which on the sky flew around like crazy. It was amazing to watch how close they fly next, over or under each other not bumping into each other. Also the leaves of the trees didn't move at all although the bats were flying into the trees. We followed the game for about half an hour and then walked back in the light of our torches.
We had just sat down in Café Semuc and oredered when there was a power cut and it started to pour down with rain. Weren't we lucky? We had a delicious burger and had an early night.
After a long and delicious breakfast we went to the office of "Ecoquetzal". We were given a folder of information on the offered tours. But unfortunately all are only for 3 days and 2 nights. Hmmm, we don't have that much time left anymore.
As time was running to get our bus we wanted to think about it and call them again tomorrow. We had five minutes to get to the bus station. It was obvious that this couldn't work. It was just obvious that this wouldn't work for us. Also because we didn't find the bus terminal immediately. When we eventually got there it was of course too late! Actually, there should be buses all the time. There were some but not to the place we wanted to go. Thus we just walked a bit further ... and even found a minibus which took us to Lanquín. On the radio we listened to the match of the Germans against the Czechs. But we would have better avoided that. :(
We arrived in Lanquín about 3.20pm - just in time to go to the cave. We quickly checked in at Posada Ilobal and were on tour again. The cave leads several kilometers into the earth but still there is not everything explored yet. The first hundred meters are signed and lighted, but still most of the underground remains untouched. The soil was very muddy and slippery. It was also unusual that in this cave it was quite hot. And we of course were still carrying our jumpers! But we were ever so happy that the cave for us was only a few hundred meters long. So many stalagmites and stalagtites. They were breathtaking. We didn't even know where to look first. The cave was very big and high and we partly felt like being lost. Yes, until all these tour groups arrived who were so loud. Gone was the calm. Still we lingered around the formations which almost all look like animals (elephant, tiger, lion, owl ...). It was almost 6pm when we left the cave.
We sat down in front of the cave's entrance and waited for the sunset. This is the time when hundreds if not thousands of bats fly out of the cave. Almost 45 minutes we sat there, listened to the rushing of the river, looked at the forest opposite of us - we thought to have seen monkeys there - and observed the many fireflies surrounding us. Then, about 6.45pm the spectacle started. In fact, lots of bats came out of the cave which on the sky flew around like crazy. It was amazing to watch how close they fly next, over or under each other not bumping into each other. Also the leaves of the trees didn't move at all although the bats were flying into the trees. We followed the game for about half an hour and then walked back in the light of our torches.
We had just sat down in Café Semuc and oredered when there was a power cut and it started to pour down with rain. Weren't we lucky? We had a delicious burger and had an early night.
Monday, June 21, 2004
Santa Cruz La Laguna - Nebaj
I (Nicole) woke up already at 4.15am - diarrhoea! Great, haven't had that for ages. Why only today when we were supposed to be on a bus all day long? I still wanted to risk it - after a few more times on the toilet we left the hotel at 7.15am and took the ferry to Panajachel.
From here we wanted to take the bus to Chichicastenango (Chichi) but the young guy of the passing bus waved to us. Jump on here, that's faster. He was right. About half an hour later we got to the new village from where we could take the bus to Chichi. We were in fact surprised that this ride was cheaper than the first one but didn't think about it more. We were dropped off and asked for directions to Nebaj. It was really cold up here and it was raining. We stood under a shelter and let a few buses pass as there was none saying Nebaj on it. We were wondering and asked - well, we are still not in Chichi. But get on here. You'll have to change one more time though. Gee, was that complicated.
After 7 hours in total we arrived in Nebaj where we went for a nice room including hot shower and TV. Nebaj itself is nothing special and we went further to explore the surrounding areas. We walked 3 hours but we didn't see the breathtaking landscape as described in our travel guide. Maybe it was because of the rain pouring down or because of all the rubbish in the river and along the road.
For dinner we had a really good pizza and went to bed early.
From here we wanted to take the bus to Chichicastenango (Chichi) but the young guy of the passing bus waved to us. Jump on here, that's faster. He was right. About half an hour later we got to the new village from where we could take the bus to Chichi. We were in fact surprised that this ride was cheaper than the first one but didn't think about it more. We were dropped off and asked for directions to Nebaj. It was really cold up here and it was raining. We stood under a shelter and let a few buses pass as there was none saying Nebaj on it. We were wondering and asked - well, we are still not in Chichi. But get on here. You'll have to change one more time though. Gee, was that complicated.
After 7 hours in total we arrived in Nebaj where we went for a nice room including hot shower and TV. Nebaj itself is nothing special and we went further to explore the surrounding areas. We walked 3 hours but we didn't see the breathtaking landscape as described in our travel guide. Maybe it was because of the rain pouring down or because of all the rubbish in the river and along the road.
For dinner we had a really good pizza and went to bed early.
Saturday, June 19, 2004
Antigua - Santa Cruz La Laguna
Already at 6.30am we were on our way to the bus. We wanted to take the local bus instead of the more expensive shuttle which is offered especially for tourists. But when we walked around the corner ... What's that? Why are here so many tourists? Unbelievable - the whole bus full of tourists. Where will this end?
We got to Panajachel and headed straight for the dive shop. It was closed though and we were told to go to Santa Cruz La Laguna. As there is also accomodation and Panajachel - we had already realized that on our way to the dive shop - a real tourist centre is, our decision was quickly made.
With a lancha (small boat) we rode over Lake Atitlan to Santa Cruz La Laguna. This lake is supposed to be one of the most beautiful in the world. It is a collapsed caldera (On top of volcanoes craters are often built in consequence of sinking lava in the chimney after the volcano has calmed down. Sometimes this crater gets so deep that the walls get instable and collapse. This leads to a wide dip which is called Caldera. Its diameter can be up to several km).
The boat ride over the up to 320m deep lake to Santa Cruz took only 10 minutes. Shortly after that we had checked in a hostel. All great but no electricity! Generally no problem at all but where do we watch the football match now?? We had no choice - it had to be without our support.
Instead of watching football we went for a walk. Santa Cruz is a really small village, spread over the hills. Quite exhausting if one wants to get to the last house. On our way we met a local who was listening to the radio. Football? Yes ... but still no goal. Great! Only 10 more minutes. Knowing the German team it's already obvious that nothing will happen anymore.
We booked our high altitude course in the hotel and spent the rest of the day doing nothing. For dinner we had a barbeque with all the guests of the hotel.
We got to Panajachel and headed straight for the dive shop. It was closed though and we were told to go to Santa Cruz La Laguna. As there is also accomodation and Panajachel - we had already realized that on our way to the dive shop - a real tourist centre is, our decision was quickly made.
With a lancha (small boat) we rode over Lake Atitlan to Santa Cruz La Laguna. This lake is supposed to be one of the most beautiful in the world. It is a collapsed caldera (On top of volcanoes craters are often built in consequence of sinking lava in the chimney after the volcano has calmed down. Sometimes this crater gets so deep that the walls get instable and collapse. This leads to a wide dip which is called Caldera. Its diameter can be up to several km).
The boat ride over the up to 320m deep lake to Santa Cruz took only 10 minutes. Shortly after that we had checked in a hostel. All great but no electricity! Generally no problem at all but where do we watch the football match now?? We had no choice - it had to be without our support.
Instead of watching football we went for a walk. Santa Cruz is a really small village, spread over the hills. Quite exhausting if one wants to get to the last house. On our way we met a local who was listening to the radio. Football? Yes ... but still no goal. Great! Only 10 more minutes. Knowing the German team it's already obvious that nothing will happen anymore.
We booked our high altitude course in the hotel and spent the rest of the day doing nothing. For dinner we had a barbeque with all the guests of the hotel.
Thursday, June 17, 2004
San Salvador - Antigua (Guatemala)
Armando was already waiting for us. For the last time we wanted to drive with him. To the bus terminal in order to get to Guatemala City. The ride was short and already at 7.45am we had our tickets. We took our bags out of the car and said good-bye to Armando. But stop - didn't we forget something? Right, we hadn't paid him yet! Of course, he should get his money. But why hadn't he said anything?
The ride in the fridge bus took 5 hours. Again the air conditioning worked too well. Cold as ice we arrived in Guatemala at 1.45pm. We took a taxi to another bus terminal in order to get to Antigua.
Antigua is a small colonial town, surrounded by 3 volcanos. The town reminds us of Granada (Nicaragua) with its many colourful buildings and the cobblestone streets.
After checking in at the hotel "Place to stay" we went to explore the town. We also booked the tickets for tomorrow's tour to Monterrico.
The evening we spent on the Internet. We haven't been online for quite a while and there were so many emails waiting for us.
The ride in the fridge bus took 5 hours. Again the air conditioning worked too well. Cold as ice we arrived in Guatemala at 1.45pm. We took a taxi to another bus terminal in order to get to Antigua.
Antigua is a small colonial town, surrounded by 3 volcanos. The town reminds us of Granada (Nicaragua) with its many colourful buildings and the cobblestone streets.
After checking in at the hotel "Place to stay" we went to explore the town. We also booked the tickets for tomorrow's tour to Monterrico.
The evening we spent on the Internet. We haven't been online for quite a while and there were so many emails waiting for us.
Tuesday, June 15, 2004
San Salvador
As agreed we got picked up at 7.30am by Armando. We wanted to go to Cerro Verde. This mountain is a National Park on an old volcano. From here one has good views on the Lago de Coatepeque as well as on the still smoking volcano Izalco. Until 1770 Izalco only was a hole in the earth and only gradually the volcano was built and grew to its actual height of 1,910 m. Because of its activities - ejection of smoke, boulders and flames - the Izalco is also called light house of the pacific. In 1957 the volcano stopped its activities, after 187 years of continuous eruptions. Still the volcano is an active one.
At the entrance to the National Park we had to pay $1 per person entrance fee plus $0.69 parking fee. On the parking however we learned that it is to dangerous to climb the Izalco on our own. We should wait until 11am then we could go with a guide and a police man. Only at 11am? This is still 1.5 hours. Why is it dangerous? Because of bandits hanging around, it only is for your own security. Hmmm... And why is the park open at 8am already when the tour guides only appear at 11am? This is only during the week. Grrrrrrr! What shall we do? We used the opportunity to at least walk the 1,300 m long circle trail and got thus to the look-out for the lake and the volcano Santa Ana (2,365 m).
We were back about 10am. Armando who had walked with us and who hasn't been here before enjoyed it as well. As we didn't want to wait another hour for a guide we decided to drive to Suchitoto. Like that we could do two things which we originally had planned for two different days.
Armando agreed to drive us there. Unfortunately though he didn't take the route we wanted. It was much further via Santa Ana he said. A gaze on our map showed that this was not true but he wasn't interested. He just drove the way back to San Salvador. Well, it's us who pay so we should also decide on the route ...
We made it to Suchitoto which is 47 km north of San Salvador, at an altitude of 380 m. Some of the earliest fighting in the civil war began in Suchitoto and went on for 13 years. Since 1993, the city's colonial legacy has been impressively restored. We wanted to have a look at the colonial buildings, the cobblestone streets as well as the Lake Suchitlan.
Around the lake it just looked as back home: lush green grassland, on which the cows were grazing, on one side the lake, in the background the mountains. Nice and idyllic. Just perfect to hang around. We had a cold coke in a "cafe" and enjoyed the calmness.
Back in San Salvador we did our chores and Armando took us back to our hotel. We gave him the agreed amount of money but he wanted more. We didn't mention Suchitoto to him yesterday? This is indeed correct but we had booked him for the whole day, had asked him for his daily price. I (Nicole) stayed ever so calm and was so happy that I knew the correct Spanish words in the right moment. In the end Armando agreed - whether it was because I mentioned that we wanted his service tomorrow as well?
This evening we had football on the program. Germany - Netherlands, a big hit! The match was long over but as we didn't know the result we watched the match. For us it was just as if it had been live. A shame though that they didn't make it, the Germans. However, we were quite surprised by the German team in general.
At the entrance to the National Park we had to pay $1 per person entrance fee plus $0.69 parking fee. On the parking however we learned that it is to dangerous to climb the Izalco on our own. We should wait until 11am then we could go with a guide and a police man. Only at 11am? This is still 1.5 hours. Why is it dangerous? Because of bandits hanging around, it only is for your own security. Hmmm... And why is the park open at 8am already when the tour guides only appear at 11am? This is only during the week. Grrrrrrr! What shall we do? We used the opportunity to at least walk the 1,300 m long circle trail and got thus to the look-out for the lake and the volcano Santa Ana (2,365 m).
We were back about 10am. Armando who had walked with us and who hasn't been here before enjoyed it as well. As we didn't want to wait another hour for a guide we decided to drive to Suchitoto. Like that we could do two things which we originally had planned for two different days.
Armando agreed to drive us there. Unfortunately though he didn't take the route we wanted. It was much further via Santa Ana he said. A gaze on our map showed that this was not true but he wasn't interested. He just drove the way back to San Salvador. Well, it's us who pay so we should also decide on the route ...
We made it to Suchitoto which is 47 km north of San Salvador, at an altitude of 380 m. Some of the earliest fighting in the civil war began in Suchitoto and went on for 13 years. Since 1993, the city's colonial legacy has been impressively restored. We wanted to have a look at the colonial buildings, the cobblestone streets as well as the Lake Suchitlan.
Around the lake it just looked as back home: lush green grassland, on which the cows were grazing, on one side the lake, in the background the mountains. Nice and idyllic. Just perfect to hang around. We had a cold coke in a "cafe" and enjoyed the calmness.
Back in San Salvador we did our chores and Armando took us back to our hotel. We gave him the agreed amount of money but he wanted more. We didn't mention Suchitoto to him yesterday? This is indeed correct but we had booked him for the whole day, had asked him for his daily price. I (Nicole) stayed ever so calm and was so happy that I knew the correct Spanish words in the right moment. In the end Armando agreed - whether it was because I mentioned that we wanted his service tomorrow as well?
This evening we had football on the program. Germany - Netherlands, a big hit! The match was long over but as we didn't know the result we watched the match. For us it was just as if it had been live. A shame though that they didn't make it, the Germans. However, we were quite surprised by the German team in general.
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