Thursday, July 31, 2003

Honningsvåg - Gjesvaer

We reached Honningsvåg at 12.15pm where we directly went to the tourist information to get information about diving. But NOK950 for 2 dives, that man must have been jocking! Only because it's at the North cape? No way, not with us.

We were just about to leave and look for a nice spot to camp wild as Ramona was held up by a guy. Surly he thought that she was on her own, but tough luck, she's with me. He wanted to offer her a boat trip to the Cape, but it's either both of us or non. So he took us both to Gjesvaer, and we finally got our little fishing village were we could camp wild. We put up our tent on a small hill overlooking the sea outside the village. Later we went back to the harbor to Ralf and his Jolle (small sailing boat) Judith.

Ralf is a jerk from Hamburg. But the 'jerk part' we only found out later. The plan was to sail out to the bird islands a few miles outside Gjesvaer. But sailing without wind? Ramona and me looked at each other, wondering. Ralf assured us that once we got out of the harbor there would be a little wind. And if that's not enough he still has the motor and 2 paddles.

To the islands we got OK and we saw thousands of birds flying around the cliffs and swimming in the sea. Even some sea eagles and seals. But on the way back to the harbor the wind dropped completely. After about a hundred tries of getting the motor to run we grabbed to the paddles. One current after the other tried to pull us back into the open sea. But in the end we won the battle and made it all the way back to the pier, even though Ralf wanted to stop on a tiny island just before the harbor to wait for wind. No way, we are not staying the night out with him. Anyway, it was freezing cold. It was 11.30pm as we stepped ashore. Happy to have solid ground under our feet we went into the pub and got a hot tea. Our dinner today: 2 packets of crisps which we shared with Ralf.

Wednesday, July 30, 2003

Tromso - Honningsvåg

We left the hostel at 10am and took the bus into town. Only then we noticed that we had forgotten the sausage. What a shame! *grin*

The most difficult task for today was to decide whether we should take the bus or the ferry to Honningsvåg. The difference was NOK674 = €96 as we wouldn't get any discount with our Scanrail ticket with Hurtigruten, the only ferry to Honningsvåg.

However, we chose the boat. At the check-in we were asked for a student pass, but we didn't have one and only showed our Scanrail ticket. We never understood why, but we got a 50% discount and only paid NOK512 for the whole trip. So in the end it was the right decision to take the ferry. Seeing the wondering midnight sun was already worth the money. On the bus we would never have seen it all. The landscape was unique and breathtaking. From time to time it felt as being in Scotland and Egypt.

We also had luck with the weather = 22 Degrees Celsius. In this region it's not common to be that warm. To get the most out of this we took our beds (sleeping bag) and slept outside on the deck.

Tuesday, July 29, 2003

Fauske - Tromso

In Fauske we took the bus direction Tromso. Then in Narvik we had to change buses to continue. We had to buy new tickets every time as they couldn't issue one for the whole trip. The reason therefore was that we were passing through different counties.

Again, we passed an ever so fascinating landscape. The mountains got bigger and the sun was shining.

Originally, we wanted to go to Tromso because we wanted to camp at a picturesque small fishing village. If we only had read our Travel book more carefully we would have known that Tromso is a large City with about 47,000 inhabitants. And once again we couldn't camp wild. We had to walk to a far out hostel.

The other bright idea we had was to eat something other than bread and cheese. We had bought one kind of sausage which looked like the German Lyoner(shape and wrapping). Looking forward to the good taste we heated the sausage but were disappointed when we tried the first piece. Not only it didn't taste like Lyoner at all, it was also disgusting. But we were brave and ate half of it. The other half we put into the fridge for tomorrows breakfast.

Monday, July 28, 2003

Stockholm

We arrived in Storlien at 9.30am and only 40min. later our train to Trondheim left. We got there at 11.50am and although last night on the train was so uncomfortable we decided to take the night train to Fauske. But this time with convertible seats.

We strolled through the center of town and chilled out in the pub called Posepilten for the rest of the afternoon/evening. 10.20pm we boarded the train to Fauske.

The landscape was beautiful and we experienced for the first time what it's like when it never gets dark at night. And because of this it didn't matter too much that the night was again very uncomfortable. We saw fjords with turquoise colored water, mountains partly covered with snow and the setting sun made the fjords and mountains glimmer in the most different colors.

Sunday, July 27, 2003

Stockholm

We took the night train at 11.15pm from Stockholm to Storlien, this way we saved spending money for the overnight stop. But it was not very comfortable. First the train was overcrowded and too hot to breath and there were only a few windows which could be opened. Later, as the train got emptier, it got freezing cold.

Friday, July 25, 2003

Norrkoeping

We woke up at 8.30am. And you wouldn't believe it but there was in fact hot water in the showers for free! Yippieh! After breakfast we packed and took a taxi in order to be faster at Anna's place who unfortunately had to work till 8pm.

At her place we first repacked our backpacks. They were just too heavy! A long trousers, a t-shirt and some underwear had to go. We wanted to send this stuff home but when we had seen the prices for parcels we were shocked! SEK 139 for a small one. That was too much! We packed a larger one with the stuff of both of us for SEK 259. But when we actually wanted to pay, the woman at the counter ripped it open again saying that international doesn't mean Europe. And it got even more expensive. SEK 289 = EURO 32,11! One should understand this!

In the evening we met Anna at her place and spend the night with girlie-talk.

Thursday, July 24, 2003

Malmoe - Norrkoeping

After only about 4 hours of sleep we had been woken up very ungentle. A new security man clapped his hands and shouted: "Time to get up." Good joke - it was only 4.45am! As they had opened the station again we were no longer allowed to ly on the bench and sleep. If we sat and sleep, it would have been ok!

At 6.30am the ticket desks had opened and we bought the Scanrail-Ticket for SEK 3,220. We took our luggage from the locker and made it just in time for our train.

About 11am we arrived in Norrköping. We again locked our luggage and walked to the centre. There, we bought some new sandals as our old ones wouldn't make it any longer. Lateron, we went to a park and fell asleep. But this wasn't restorative at all. The other people were too loud and it was just too hot.

We waited until 6pm in order to then call Anna. She's still at work - that's what we thought! But she had two days off and went for a trip on a boat and only came back the day after. So we looked for a camp site.

Wednesday, July 23, 2003

Sandvig - Malmö

I (Nicole) woke up at 8.30am as it was too hot. The sun was just burning on our tent. So I took my soap and a towel and went for a shower. Unfortunately - or rather fortunately? - I forgot my money. So there was just cold water. But it didn't matter after having slept only two hours and after all this red wine I really enjoyed the cold water. No wonder! Back to our tent, Ramona was already lying outside it. So I took my inflator as well and tried to sleep again - this time outside the tent.

Got up at 10.30 am and while Ramona took a shower and got something for breakfast I took down our tent. We wanted to go to Norrköping today. We packed our backpacks, took bus no. 2 to Ronne where we arrived just in time for the catamaran to Ystad. In Ystad, we tried to find out the best way to Norrköping where we wanted to visit Anna. The man at the information center said the best option is to go via Malmö. Why? "It's better." Well, according to our map the option via Kristianstad would have been shorter but we trusted that man and bought a ticket for SEK 70.

We arrived in Malmö at 6pm. Then, we needed a ticket to Norrköping. Or rather a Scanrail-Ticket? We got both prices at the ticket desk: Malmö - Norrköping SEK 530, Scanrail SEK 3,220 and were indecisive. Maybe we get cheaper tickets when booking through Internet?

We went to an Internet-Cafe close to the station which is actually quite expensive with SEK 44 per hour but the service is worth it. You can download your pictures from your camera, burn CDs and even order drinks and food through an online system.

However, we couldn't get our tickets cheaper. So we tried to get the night train to Norrköping at 11.10pm. But as the ticket desk was closed we couldn't buy the Scanrail-Ticket.

Thus, we had the next problem: Where shall we stay overnight? A nice security guide proposed us some hotels but all were too expensive for us. As the station closed at midnight, we got our sleeping bags and inflators and slept at a bench outside the station from where the trains leave.

Tuesday, July 22, 2003

Sandvig - Hammershus - Sandvig

You probably all know the feeling of lying almost naked in your sleeping bag having to go to the loo. And you're just too lazy to put on some clothes and just do it. No,instead you turn around, fall asleep again in order to wake up 20 or 30 minutes later. And in the end you have to go anyway. That's what happened to us last night.

Ramona seemed to have slept even worse than me, she was more exhausted than me. And everything we did, we did it very slowly. We first got something to eat for breakfast and had to realize that the Danish people make prices to which they cannot give the change. We i.e. were supposed to pay DKR 50.45 and had to pay DKR 50.50 as the smallest coin they have is a piece of DKR 0.25. Very nice!

We didn't really know what to do that day... ride the bike, hike or just stay at the beach.We decided to hike but just for two hours as described in our brochure. But that day it took us four hours.

Back at the camp site we started to cook. No need to say who was responsible for the cooker. And it workd better than the day before. During dinner we observed these five funny Danish guys who made us laugh again and again. They were all quite shy and didn't say more than a hallo. Anyway, we got invited to their party by another friend of them. We went to that party which was rather a get-together. As we were too loud at the cmp site we went to a pub with live music lateron. When it closed at 1am, they organised a beach party with a nice little fire, music, beer and red wine. We were about 10 to 15 people at this cosy place, enjoyed the lovely sunrise and were just happy. Only at 6.30am we got to our tent to sleep.

Monday, July 21, 2003

Dueodde - Sandvig

We got up at 8.45am and the sun was shining again. We wanted to leave for Sandvig and had to check-out before noon. Not an easy job as we had to pack our backpacks again. But this works even better after having had breakfast. So I (Nicole) went to buy our last carton of chocolate and prepared breakfast. We then got disturbed by our neighbours who screamed and cried out of their tent. What was going on? We couldn't believe it but the young boy seemed to have bitten his mum. Very strange and we were happy to leave. We made it just in time, even for our bus no. 7. According to our understanding, we were supposed to drive through 7 zones but we only paid for 5. Even better! :)

After almost two hours we got to Sandvig where we set up our tent again at a new camp site just next to the sea. We then went to have a look for petrol as we wanted to cook for the first time. Luckily, we found some and also a small shop where we bought pasta, cheese ... and of course, another bottle of red wine!

Back at the camp site it was Ramona's job to get the cooker working. There wasn't an instruction manual but I was sure she would make it. While I was preparing food, she tried her best and what happened? All of a sudden, the whole cooker was burning, red flames towards our tent, black smoke towards herself ... well, maybe it's not that easy!? But in the end, she got it running and even our dinner tasted well.

The red wine, in fact, was the best we ever tried in Denmark but we couldn't enjoy it outside as there was our first thunderstorm and we had to spend the rest of the night in our tent.

Sunday, July 20, 2003

Dueodde - Almindingen - Bolshaven - Svaneke - Nexo - Dueodde

We got up at 9am and the first thing we did was to rent two bikes at the reception. Fortunately, we got the last two mountain bikes for DKR 55 a day (24h). After breakfast, we washed our clothes and at 11.15am we started our tour. Via Pedersker to Aakirkeby - 13.2km. Here, we had a short break for ice-cream and coke. A quiet small village with a strange church. It looked like it had previously been a castle.

We wanted to ride to Almindingen but there wasn't a sign at all so we asked a woman who was just cutting the grass. On a Sunday! And she was not the only one! Anyway, it was no wonder, we didn't find Almindingen. It was only a forest and not a village as shown on our map. We then found it and were impressed by the quitness and the beautiful views of the countryside and to the sea. Just before Svaneke we decided to go via Ostermarie and then to the sea to Bolshaven. After that, down to Listed. We passed a small table with picked cherries in a cup. The table was half on the cycle path, we couldn't just pass it. We took a cup, paid DKR 10 as requested and crossed the road. There we tried to spit the cherry stones as wide as we could. If one had only seen us... quite silly! But funny!

We followed the cycle path via Svaneke to Nexo and to Snogebaek. We definitely had to stop there in order to eat the delicious saly popcorn at the harbour festival. After having had eaten that, we continued to Dueodde - but with lots of pain in the butt and in the thighs! In total, we rode 75km that day! We can be proud of ourselves for this performance as we never ride the bike!

In order to loosen our muscels we jumped in the pool at the camp site but we didn't think it would help a lot. After swimming, a warm shower and we should have known it before: There was hot water for much longer than in the cabin we went to the other day! And again we only had to pay DKR 2. Very nice!

Dinner was very short because of general exhaustion. Of course, we had bread and cheese. Only the awful red wine was too much for us that night.

Saturday, July 19, 2003

Dueodde - Svaneke

Originally, Nicole wanted to see the sunrise at 4.45am but somehow she seemed to have forgotten during night. We got up at 9.50h and bought bread rolls for breakfast. After breakfast we had a shower. This costs DKR 2 which need to be put in a machine in the cabin. We being clever, we stripped and got ready before we put in the money. But this didn't help much. We were just completely covered with soap as the hot water stopped. Just like in the wrong movie! Of course, we only had one piece of DKR 2 each - and there we were. Fortunately, cold water was still running. And it was really cold!

At 12.50pm we started our day trip. We wanted to walk to Snogebaek cause there was a harbour festival. The walk was supposed to be 3km long but in the end it was 6km. Anyway, we got there. They had water games and on the market place there was live music. All around were places to eat and drink. Everything was almost just as in Germany. Even the young people were drunk already in the afternoon. It was mega funny.

Around 5pm we took the bus to Svaneke. But it was only a small village with a small harbour. Not a lot to see. Except for the sweets fabric which was about to close but we were still allowed to buy some candies. Then we took the bus back to Dueodde and ended the evening with bread, cheese and red wine - a bottle of Australian and one of Spanish wine, both not to be drunk without coke!!

Then we took the bus back to Dueodde and ended the evening with bread, cheese and red wine - a bottle of Australian red wine, again not to be drunk without coke!!

9.55pm - we thought we could try another bottle of red wine. So Nicole ran to the shop which closed at 10pm. But she made it and came back with a bottle of Spanish red wine. This one was even more disgusting and coke couldn't help.

Some time later we started to play with our tea light. First of all, I only put some fir needles in the flame. This smells so good. After that a small stick, then a fir cone. And before you could say knife we had a small campfire. Hopefully, tomorrow noone will complain about us.

Friday, July 18, 2003

Trelleborg - Dueodde

6am arrival in Trelleborg - it was raining cats and dogs. While looking for a bus station, a young Swedish guy stopped and asked where we want to go. Careful as we are we had asked him where he was going.

He:"Malmö"

We:"What a shame. We want to go to Ystad."

He:"OK, I'll drive you there."

We:"Why?"

He:"Don't have to do anything right now."

We:"And what do you want to have for that?"

He:"Nothing."

That sounded like a good deal. :) It was only 45 km anyway. So what should happen? ... His name was Mads and during our conversation we learned that he used to travel a lot and would have been grateful if someone had helped him like that at that time. That's why he likes helping travellers. He brought us to the ticket center in Ystad and left. What a nice gesture!

It was 7.10am. The counter was supposed to open at 7.30am - according to our Swedish language skills. About an hour later, it came to our mind to ask at a different counter as the original one was still not open. And of course, we were in the wrong building! Typical us! I (Ramona) went to have a look in the other building in order to buy tickets and check out where we needed to go while Nicole was looking after our luggage. As I got there the ferry was just leaving and we had to take the next one at 12.35pm. Thus, we had to wait again. At 12.20pm we boarded the catamaran. Although it only took about an hour, the ticket was almost as expensive as the ticket for Rostock to Trelleborg. At 2.15pm we took bus no. 7 to go from Ronne to Dueodde where we wanted to camp a few days. It is important to know that there's nothing but the camp site. In order to be allowed to camp in Scandinavia for several days one needs a camping pass which can be bought at every camp site. It costs about DKR 80 (~EURO 12).

After having set up our tent we went for a walk to the beach. The sand is white and very fine and squeaks when walking across. When we came back it was time for dinner. We had bread, cheese and red wine of Bornholm (French wine, bottled in Bornholm). No need to try this wine as only enjoyable mixed with coke.

Thursday, July 17, 2003

Cadenberge

Cadenberge, 11.50h - Our trip started. My (Ramona's) parents brought us to Rostock by car. We had arrived at 4pm and bouth our ferry tickets to Trelleborg (Sweden) right away. Two days ago, on internet these tickets have been announced for EURO 115 per person. Therefore, we were ever so positively surprised that they askes for only EURO 22 per person. The price difference may occur from not taking a cabin. So, why should we if we carry our bed around anyway?

Departure was planned for 11pm so there was plenty of time to be killed. With my parents we had the last giant German currywurst with fries. Around 6pm my parents left to go home as they had another four hours to drive. Now, being on our own, we were sitting there, wandering what to do, watching people and trying to realize that it's not just a two weeks holiday. And this will probably take quite some time.

At 10.30pm we boarded the Tom Sawyer (Ferry). Fortunately, we were allowed to lock our backpacks at the reception so we looked for a cosy place to sit outside. Lateron, we slept on the floor in a corner. It was a damn cold night and we were glad to hear the gong announcing breakfast at 5am.