We arrived in Shenzen at noon and firstly had to fill in a departure form for China as well as an arrival form for Hongkong. Then we got our stamp and ... there we were in Hongkong. Hongkong is now independent and due to that they even have another currency, the Hongkong-Dollar.
After having changed some money we got some food in a bakery. Already here we could see that we are no longer in China. Here we could buy things we only know from home. Fantastic!
We took the metro to Causeway Bay where we wanted to stay for the next nights. The region is a shopping and restaurant district on Hong Kong Island, just opposite of Kowloon, the mainland.
Whether we will meet Nicole NL here in a sec? In the guesthouse we first of all had a shower - hot! Oh, that was nice! And then Nicole NL turned up. Al would be really surprised. I (Nicole) spoke to Ramona and Nicole NL and then I had to distract Al. Nicole NL knocked at the door and when Al opened ... wow - he was really surprised and happy. :)
Together we went to Lan Kwai Fong, the pub area in Hong Kong. Here we wanted to celebrate into 2004. But first of all we need something to eat. We discovered 'Al's Diner'. It was out of question that we had to go there. The food was really good. And now the party could start. We were still early and everywhere was still Happy Hour ...
We spent the time of the countdown on the street, together with many thousands of people. Almost like at home, only the countdown thing was a bit too difficult for them. A wild chaos and only one group after the other started to hug and kiss each other. But it didn't matter - a great start into the New Year.
We celebrated until early morning in Hong Kong's pubs. Of course, tomorrow will be a really lazy day.
Happy New Year!
Wednesday, December 31, 2003
Monday, December 29, 2003
Shaolin Si
At 10am the bus to Shaolin leaves. But before that we will have to get our tickets to Hong Kong. Already at 9am we were with the travel agent but one couldn't help us.
Al and Ramona took our backpacks to the luggage storage while I tried to get our tickets. As Ramona was thinking of spending a night in the Shaolin Temple, I only had to buy two tickets for Al and myself. It took quite a while until I finally held the tickets in my hand. The first three hours we'll have a seat but for the rest of the journey we'll have a sleeper. Great - that's fine with us.
Now we could drive to the fighters. But first we were taken to another temple. One even tried to tell us that we have to see four different temples as they all belong together. Yeah, right! Even on the sign in front of the temple it didn't say so.
We thus waited about 20 minutes and then we were off on the bus again. Eventually to the Shaolin temple where we were heading for. But we were more than disappointed, especially Ramona, who was looking forward to that since we got to China. It didn't take us long to walk over the whole place. Now we want to see the boys fighting.
When we finally saw them we were even more disappointed. We had seen a lot of things already in the kong fu school in Chengdu, part of it in the acrobatics show in Beijing. No, this wasn't what we had expected. Let's leave that place.
Back in Zhengzhou we bought a train ticket for Ramona. Strangely it wasn't a problem at all now. She even got a sleeper for the whole journey. Was that a bunny this morning who sold us our tickets?
In the evening we had a nice dinner at Pizza Hut.
Al and Ramona took our backpacks to the luggage storage while I tried to get our tickets. As Ramona was thinking of spending a night in the Shaolin Temple, I only had to buy two tickets for Al and myself. It took quite a while until I finally held the tickets in my hand. The first three hours we'll have a seat but for the rest of the journey we'll have a sleeper. Great - that's fine with us.
Now we could drive to the fighters. But first we were taken to another temple. One even tried to tell us that we have to see four different temples as they all belong together. Yeah, right! Even on the sign in front of the temple it didn't say so.
We thus waited about 20 minutes and then we were off on the bus again. Eventually to the Shaolin temple where we were heading for. But we were more than disappointed, especially Ramona, who was looking forward to that since we got to China. It didn't take us long to walk over the whole place. Now we want to see the boys fighting.
When we finally saw them we were even more disappointed. We had seen a lot of things already in the kong fu school in Chengdu, part of it in the acrobatics show in Beijing. No, this wasn't what we had expected. Let's leave that place.
Back in Zhengzhou we bought a train ticket for Ramona. Strangely it wasn't a problem at all now. She even got a sleeper for the whole journey. Was that a bunny this morning who sold us our tickets?
In the evening we had a nice dinner at Pizza Hut.
Saturday, December 27, 2003
Yangzi river
Ramona was excited. We just rode through the first gorge and she couldn't wait to get out of our room. I on the other side was a bit more relaxed. The journey through the gorges would be for 200km.
We spent most of the time on deck and enjoyed the great landscape. It is impressing how the mountains on both sides loom hundreds of meters high. On the other side the 175 m signs were quite depressing. They showed us how high the water will be in about 8 years. A few villages will be flooded by then.
In the afternoon we were called for the tour to the three little gorges. We had booked this tour already two days ago to be sure to have a seat on the small boat. Thus, we left the big boat and got on the small one.
The tour reminded me of our Chinese tour to the Ming Tombs. We were surrounded only by Chinese and there was a Chinese tour guide. Everybody just looked to the right or to the left. Only from time to time we could guess what the tour guide was talking about. But it didn't really matter. The landscape was even nicer here than through the three big gorges. We also saw monkeys which were climbing from one tree to the other. For us the three little gorges were much more attractive and charming.
We spent our lunch in a kind of temple where they served lots of different meals. We decided to go for the simple potatoes. We can't do anything wrong with this, can we?
Back on the big boat we had some hours to kill before we were off to the dam. We couldn't miss out this mega project. But my stomach was funny again. Hopefully I'll manage on the bus. The bus drove around the dam and we had a 15 minutes stop to take pictures. The building site which we saw was huge. No wonder, here they build the biggest dam in the world. Isn't it a mega project?
We had some more stops but because of my stomach I preferred to stay on the toilet or in the bus.
We (Ramona and Al) were led to a kind of castle where we could watch Chinese knight games. Many artistic feats on horses. But I didn't like it too much. All the horses had wooden saddles which would have been ok but in addition to that they have been beaten by their knights. The poor horses, that wasn't fun for them. After the knight games we went to an aquarium. It had been re-opened for us. There were a few small aquariums with lots of small colourful fish. But then the shock! A huge fish, at least 3m long in a 5m big aquarium. But it wasn't the only fish in there. At least another 10 - 15 smaller ones. How can one treat an animal like that? The huge fish didn't have space to swim at all.
The last stop of that tour was another temple. Not another one. Al and I didn't want to go there at all.
It was almost 1am when we got back on the boat. Acutally, it's not worth trying to get some sleep now. In two hours we'll be in Yichang where we have to get off. Still, the three of us fell asleep.
We spent most of the time on deck and enjoyed the great landscape. It is impressing how the mountains on both sides loom hundreds of meters high. On the other side the 175 m signs were quite depressing. They showed us how high the water will be in about 8 years. A few villages will be flooded by then.
In the afternoon we were called for the tour to the three little gorges. We had booked this tour already two days ago to be sure to have a seat on the small boat. Thus, we left the big boat and got on the small one.
The tour reminded me of our Chinese tour to the Ming Tombs. We were surrounded only by Chinese and there was a Chinese tour guide. Everybody just looked to the right or to the left. Only from time to time we could guess what the tour guide was talking about. But it didn't really matter. The landscape was even nicer here than through the three big gorges. We also saw monkeys which were climbing from one tree to the other. For us the three little gorges were much more attractive and charming.
We spent our lunch in a kind of temple where they served lots of different meals. We decided to go for the simple potatoes. We can't do anything wrong with this, can we?
Back on the big boat we had some hours to kill before we were off to the dam. We couldn't miss out this mega project. But my stomach was funny again. Hopefully I'll manage on the bus. The bus drove around the dam and we had a 15 minutes stop to take pictures. The building site which we saw was huge. No wonder, here they build the biggest dam in the world. Isn't it a mega project?
We had some more stops but because of my stomach I preferred to stay on the toilet or in the bus.
We (Ramona and Al) were led to a kind of castle where we could watch Chinese knight games. Many artistic feats on horses. But I didn't like it too much. All the horses had wooden saddles which would have been ok but in addition to that they have been beaten by their knights. The poor horses, that wasn't fun for them. After the knight games we went to an aquarium. It had been re-opened for us. There were a few small aquariums with lots of small colourful fish. But then the shock! A huge fish, at least 3m long in a 5m big aquarium. But it wasn't the only fish in there. At least another 10 - 15 smaller ones. How can one treat an animal like that? The huge fish didn't have space to swim at all.
The last stop of that tour was another temple. Not another one. Al and I didn't want to go there at all.
It was almost 1am when we got back on the boat. Acutally, it's not worth trying to get some sleep now. In two hours we'll be in Yichang where we have to get off. Still, the three of us fell asleep.
Thursday, December 25, 2003
Lhasa - Chengdu - Chongqing
Flight to Chengdu, second try. As yesterday, the bus left already at 6.30am. After yesterday's Christmas Eve we had some problems to get up in time. But we still managed it.
The cashier in the bus wanted to Yuan 35 for the ride. But she was surprised when we showed her our bus ticket from yesterday - as many other Chinese as well. Well, we are not that stupid. She had to smile and showed us like that that we didn't have to pay anymore. :)
When we got to the airport at 8am we didn't want to believe our eyes. The airport was still closed but in front of the doors were hundreds of people. As if they had PCs as special offers! We joined them and were really lucky that we didn't have our big backpacks any longer.
When they opened the door there was only scramble. As we didn't know whether and if yes, where to change our tickets, Ramona ran to the Check-in desk and I queued in front of the security check. There was a coming and going and nobody seemed to know what was going on. In the end we had to change our tickets.
I (Nicole) went to the counter while Ramona now queued. Of course, I was now used to the Chinese attitude. Thus, it goes without saying that I can behave accordingly. Without looking after the others - otherwise I would probably still stand there - I pushed myself to the front. I was pushed from the others anyway. What else could I do? It was like hell! It was obvious that everybody who had checked in for the first flight yesterday would get a ticket today. But the way they pushed from behind... once I was even hit from the policeman who was supposed to keep us quiet - with his fist right into my stomach . I complained straight away and got the answer back I shouldn't push. Twat! They all push from behind, one can't do anything in the front. At some point I got our tickets and relieved I went back to Ramona.
The flight was ok and in Chengdu we were picked up by Al who had already organised everything for our boat trip on the Yangzi river. With a minibus we drove to the bus station and from there we went to Chongqing. The journey was supposed to last three hours; but for whatever reasons we were stuck in the bus for almost five hours. Al surprised us with some presents - thus we had our second Christmas in the bus. :)
We arrived in Chongqing at 7.30pm. We were picked up by a guy who took us to the harbour. The boat left at 8pm and we still had some time to buy our so much loved noodles.
We had third class tickets and slept in a room with five other Chinese. There was a sink and even a TV in our room. After dinner (the noodles didn't taste good at all :( ) we went to the Karaoke Bar. But we didn't stay for long as we had to buy our drinks at the kiosk and then they even wanted some money from us so we could sit there. We couldn't believe it. Why should we pay to listen to the awful singing of the Chinese? No, no!
The cashier in the bus wanted to Yuan 35 for the ride. But she was surprised when we showed her our bus ticket from yesterday - as many other Chinese as well. Well, we are not that stupid. She had to smile and showed us like that that we didn't have to pay anymore. :)
When we got to the airport at 8am we didn't want to believe our eyes. The airport was still closed but in front of the doors were hundreds of people. As if they had PCs as special offers! We joined them and were really lucky that we didn't have our big backpacks any longer.
When they opened the door there was only scramble. As we didn't know whether and if yes, where to change our tickets, Ramona ran to the Check-in desk and I queued in front of the security check. There was a coming and going and nobody seemed to know what was going on. In the end we had to change our tickets.
I (Nicole) went to the counter while Ramona now queued. Of course, I was now used to the Chinese attitude. Thus, it goes without saying that I can behave accordingly. Without looking after the others - otherwise I would probably still stand there - I pushed myself to the front. I was pushed from the others anyway. What else could I do? It was like hell! It was obvious that everybody who had checked in for the first flight yesterday would get a ticket today. But the way they pushed from behind... once I was even hit from the policeman who was supposed to keep us quiet - with his fist right into my stomach . I complained straight away and got the answer back I shouldn't push. Twat! They all push from behind, one can't do anything in the front. At some point I got our tickets and relieved I went back to Ramona.
The flight was ok and in Chengdu we were picked up by Al who had already organised everything for our boat trip on the Yangzi river. With a minibus we drove to the bus station and from there we went to Chongqing. The journey was supposed to last three hours; but for whatever reasons we were stuck in the bus for almost five hours. Al surprised us with some presents - thus we had our second Christmas in the bus. :)
We arrived in Chongqing at 7.30pm. We were picked up by a guy who took us to the harbour. The boat left at 8pm and we still had some time to buy our so much loved noodles.
We had third class tickets and slept in a room with five other Chinese. There was a sink and even a TV in our room. After dinner (the noodles didn't taste good at all :( ) we went to the Karaoke Bar. But we didn't stay for long as we had to buy our drinks at the kiosk and then they even wanted some money from us so we could sit there. We couldn't believe it. Why should we pay to listen to the awful singing of the Chinese? No, no!
Tuesday, December 23, 2003
Drikong - Lhasa
The alarm-clock rang at 8am. Only slowly we forced ourselves out of bed. But today we wanted to see the sky burial and we had to walk for 20 minutes first. Well, let's get up now then!
Stefan had massive problems walking still due to the altitude. I (Nicole) know the problem only too good from our Mt. Fuji Tour.
When we got to the place where the sky burial was supposed to take place, the locals were working already. And also the vultures lined up in hundreds. Unbelievable how patient they were.
The dead, who were mostly carried to the round place in white cloths, get uncovered and are then cut in pieces from the 'tomden'. With a big sharp knife the flesh is cut in big chunks while the bones and brain are smashed and mixed with barley flour. I will never forget this sound.
The 'Tomden' steps away and the huge vultures descend into a feeding frenzy. They really fight for the flesh. After a few minutes there is not much left of the dead.
For us it is indeed very difficult to understand this ceremony but this sky burial is an ancient Buddhist-Tibetan burial tradition. Buddhists here believe that the body is merely a vehicle to carry you through this life; once a body dies, the spirit leaves it and the body is no longer of use. Therefore, through this sky burial one only tries to get rid of the body.
If one looks at it from this point of view the whole thing is relatively easy to watch. One only needs to bear in mind that this is Tibetan culture and belongs to the country as does the Yak-cow.
After the burial we wanted to go back to Lhasa. But our jeep didn't want to. Only after half an hour of hard work the jeep ran again and we could continue our journey back to Lhasa.
Ramona went to see the Potala Palace while I had to do some other stuff in the afternoon.
At 7pm we met again with Miranda and Stefan in the Snowland Restaurant. To our surprise we also met Nicole NL again who only wanted to be back from a tour tomorrow. Very nice that we could see her as well before we fly back to Chengdu.
Stefan had massive problems walking still due to the altitude. I (Nicole) know the problem only too good from our Mt. Fuji Tour.
When we got to the place where the sky burial was supposed to take place, the locals were working already. And also the vultures lined up in hundreds. Unbelievable how patient they were.
The dead, who were mostly carried to the round place in white cloths, get uncovered and are then cut in pieces from the 'tomden'. With a big sharp knife the flesh is cut in big chunks while the bones and brain are smashed and mixed with barley flour. I will never forget this sound.
The 'Tomden' steps away and the huge vultures descend into a feeding frenzy. They really fight for the flesh. After a few minutes there is not much left of the dead.
For us it is indeed very difficult to understand this ceremony but this sky burial is an ancient Buddhist-Tibetan burial tradition. Buddhists here believe that the body is merely a vehicle to carry you through this life; once a body dies, the spirit leaves it and the body is no longer of use. Therefore, through this sky burial one only tries to get rid of the body.
If one looks at it from this point of view the whole thing is relatively easy to watch. One only needs to bear in mind that this is Tibetan culture and belongs to the country as does the Yak-cow.
After the burial we wanted to go back to Lhasa. But our jeep didn't want to. Only after half an hour of hard work the jeep ran again and we could continue our journey back to Lhasa.
Ramona went to see the Potala Palace while I had to do some other stuff in the afternoon.
At 7pm we met again with Miranda and Stefan in the Snowland Restaurant. To our surprise we also met Nicole NL again who only wanted to be back from a tour tomorrow. Very nice that we could see her as well before we fly back to Chengdu.
Sunday, December 21, 2003
Lhasa - Namtso
At 9am we were picked up by our driver and we immediately were handed over our flight tickets to Chengdu. Cool, that worked without any problems. We then picked up Miranda and Stefan and off we were. That's what we thought. But the driver didn't seem to have a clue at all where to go. We first had to call the woman with whom we booked the tour. Only after that all seemed to be ok.
First to the Namtso-Lake. This is the largest lake in Tibet and the largest salt lake in China. The journey took several hours and again we saw dramatic landscape scenery, large mountain massifs. And then eventually the Namtso which bribed through its bluegreen colours. The lake lies in front of a very big mountain range, among which is also one of more than 7,000 m high.
When we got to the lake we seemed to be the only tourists. We checked in a room with four beds, a table and a stove. Fantastic, tonight we can really make a sauna out of our room.
The four of us then walked to the nomads village. Here they even sold stuff to drink and eat. Thus, we'll have noodles again tonight. Mmmh!
They also have a lot of colourful praying flags here - a great picture with a blue sky and the sunshine. Together with a lot of pilgrims we walked the kora around the rock but stopped here and there to take pictures. Some kids, especially girls, were quite shy and even ran away from us. Others on the other side were again quite keen on our digital cameras. It was quite funny to see that there was also someone with a huge camera who ran around to take pictures of the pilgrims. They were all really happy to hold a picture of themselves in their hands.
After our walk we bought some noodles and sat down in front of our hut in order to enjoy the sun. But as soon as the sun was gone it got so cold that we fled in our hut. The Yak dung, however, which we got didn't want to burn. Therefore, we got out again and looked for some burning material.
Stefan didn't feel so well, he had a lot of problems because of the altitude and therefore it was us three girls who were responsible not only for the fire but also for Stefan's well-being. No question, that we could handle that easily. We managed to get more than 35 degrees Celsius in our hut, just hot enough to get into our sleeping bags. When there was no more wood left it cooled down very quickly. We just couldn't keep the heat in our hut.
When I (Nicole) lay down, I also felt the altitude. My heart beat like mad. Strange, I've already been to the Everest which is much higher. But when it comes to altitude one can't do anything. Once you can cope, another time not. My more or less sleepless night I spent observing the thermometer.
First to the Namtso-Lake. This is the largest lake in Tibet and the largest salt lake in China. The journey took several hours and again we saw dramatic landscape scenery, large mountain massifs. And then eventually the Namtso which bribed through its bluegreen colours. The lake lies in front of a very big mountain range, among which is also one of more than 7,000 m high.
When we got to the lake we seemed to be the only tourists. We checked in a room with four beds, a table and a stove. Fantastic, tonight we can really make a sauna out of our room.
The four of us then walked to the nomads village. Here they even sold stuff to drink and eat. Thus, we'll have noodles again tonight. Mmmh!
They also have a lot of colourful praying flags here - a great picture with a blue sky and the sunshine. Together with a lot of pilgrims we walked the kora around the rock but stopped here and there to take pictures. Some kids, especially girls, were quite shy and even ran away from us. Others on the other side were again quite keen on our digital cameras. It was quite funny to see that there was also someone with a huge camera who ran around to take pictures of the pilgrims. They were all really happy to hold a picture of themselves in their hands.
After our walk we bought some noodles and sat down in front of our hut in order to enjoy the sun. But as soon as the sun was gone it got so cold that we fled in our hut. The Yak dung, however, which we got didn't want to burn. Therefore, we got out again and looked for some burning material.
Stefan didn't feel so well, he had a lot of problems because of the altitude and therefore it was us three girls who were responsible not only for the fire but also for Stefan's well-being. No question, that we could handle that easily. We managed to get more than 35 degrees Celsius in our hut, just hot enough to get into our sleeping bags. When there was no more wood left it cooled down very quickly. We just couldn't keep the heat in our hut.
When I (Nicole) lay down, I also felt the altitude. My heart beat like mad. Strange, I've already been to the Everest which is much higher. But when it comes to altitude one can't do anything. Once you can cope, another time not. My more or less sleepless night I spent observing the thermometer.
Saturday, December 20, 2003
Lhasa
This morning we spent our time on the computer. Again we had to download our pictures and Nicole wrote some more reports. Thus, I was at the PC in the hotel and Nicole ran to the Internet Cafe around the corner.
About 2pm I picked up Nicole. We were supposed to meet Stefan in front of the Potala Palace. Whether we will manage today to get in? Of course not! They closed at 3pm. Not as indicated in the Lonely Planet at 3.30pm. Great! We won't be able to see the palace at all then. What a pity!
Stefan had to do some other stuff and went off. Nicole and I went to the post office because I wanted to send some stuff home. But Custom Service was out for lunch and we had to wait until 3.30pm. Without Custom Service they cannot accept any parcels. Thus, we strolled around the market behind the post office. Again they sell everything here: spices next to fish, fruits, meat, handicraft, ... no order at all. At 3.30pm I could finally send my parcel. And what had Custom Service done with it? They gave me a piece of paper with a stamp saying that they had checked everything. But they hadn't even opened my parcel. Well...
Then we had to look for a bank. We again urgently needed some cash. We ran through several streets but couldn't find any. Why do we always have to wait till the latest moment to get cash? If we cannot find a bank today, we will not be able to pay for our tour to Namtso and the flight ticket to Chengdu.
We first went to the Outdoor shop in order to get our sleeping bags. But they insisted on a deposit of Yuan 600 which we didn't have anymore. I only had Yuan 400 left. But they wanted 600. Thus, we had to further look for a bank. Of course, we had already asked a few people where to find a bank. We are not stupid. However, every time when we found it it was closed. No wonder - it's Saturday today. Then finally, after a long to and fro, we found one. Even a cash machine. But no - this one didn't work. We had to go even further. Behind the Potala on the right hand side, there's the main bank. It still was a long way to walk but finally we got some cash. What a stress! On our way back we allowed ourselves a rickshaw...
... to the big department store. We'll definitely find some pickled cucumbers here, won't we? We would need them for our potatoe salad which we want to make on 24 December. Unfortunately, we couldn't find any. Therefore, we bought a few CDs. They only cost Euro 4. We can thus spend a lot of money on that. How heavy our backpacks will be again?
At 7pm we went to the Tashi Restaurant in order to meet Stefan again. Before that we quickly went to the Outdoor Shop again to get our sleeping bags which we will need tomorrow. In the restaurant we also met the other Stefan and the Dutch girl Miranda, who wants to join us tomorrow. She had come to the Flora Hotel this afternoon and had asked whether she could still join. Of course. Thus, we'll be four tomorrow on our tour to Namtso.
We again ate the delicious bobi with vegetables. However, we were still so hungry that we could have easily eaten another portion. One of the Stefan's was a bit cold and he wanted to move to the Snowland Restaurant. No problem. There I'll eat again the great tomato soup. Said, done. And to finish our meal we also shared a potatoe salad. It goes without saying that we also had some red wine.
At 10.30pm we left for home. Which means Nicole went again to the Internet Cafe and I to the hotel where I tried to upload the new CDs on my Jukebox. We should have slept instead as we of course wanted to be fit for tomorrow's tour and not sleep the whole time in the jeep ...
About 2pm I picked up Nicole. We were supposed to meet Stefan in front of the Potala Palace. Whether we will manage today to get in? Of course not! They closed at 3pm. Not as indicated in the Lonely Planet at 3.30pm. Great! We won't be able to see the palace at all then. What a pity!
Stefan had to do some other stuff and went off. Nicole and I went to the post office because I wanted to send some stuff home. But Custom Service was out for lunch and we had to wait until 3.30pm. Without Custom Service they cannot accept any parcels. Thus, we strolled around the market behind the post office. Again they sell everything here: spices next to fish, fruits, meat, handicraft, ... no order at all. At 3.30pm I could finally send my parcel. And what had Custom Service done with it? They gave me a piece of paper with a stamp saying that they had checked everything. But they hadn't even opened my parcel. Well...
Then we had to look for a bank. We again urgently needed some cash. We ran through several streets but couldn't find any. Why do we always have to wait till the latest moment to get cash? If we cannot find a bank today, we will not be able to pay for our tour to Namtso and the flight ticket to Chengdu.
We first went to the Outdoor shop in order to get our sleeping bags. But they insisted on a deposit of Yuan 600 which we didn't have anymore. I only had Yuan 400 left. But they wanted 600. Thus, we had to further look for a bank. Of course, we had already asked a few people where to find a bank. We are not stupid. However, every time when we found it it was closed. No wonder - it's Saturday today. Then finally, after a long to and fro, we found one. Even a cash machine. But no - this one didn't work. We had to go even further. Behind the Potala on the right hand side, there's the main bank. It still was a long way to walk but finally we got some cash. What a stress! On our way back we allowed ourselves a rickshaw...
... to the big department store. We'll definitely find some pickled cucumbers here, won't we? We would need them for our potatoe salad which we want to make on 24 December. Unfortunately, we couldn't find any. Therefore, we bought a few CDs. They only cost Euro 4. We can thus spend a lot of money on that. How heavy our backpacks will be again?
At 7pm we went to the Tashi Restaurant in order to meet Stefan again. Before that we quickly went to the Outdoor Shop again to get our sleeping bags which we will need tomorrow. In the restaurant we also met the other Stefan and the Dutch girl Miranda, who wants to join us tomorrow. She had come to the Flora Hotel this afternoon and had asked whether she could still join. Of course. Thus, we'll be four tomorrow on our tour to Namtso.
We again ate the delicious bobi with vegetables. However, we were still so hungry that we could have easily eaten another portion. One of the Stefan's was a bit cold and he wanted to move to the Snowland Restaurant. No problem. There I'll eat again the great tomato soup. Said, done. And to finish our meal we also shared a potatoe salad. It goes without saying that we also had some red wine.
At 10.30pm we left for home. Which means Nicole went again to the Internet Cafe and I to the hotel where I tried to upload the new CDs on my Jukebox. We should have slept instead as we of course wanted to be fit for tomorrow's tour and not sleep the whole time in the jeep ...
Friday, December 19, 2003
Lhasa
Originally we wanted to have a lay in today. But already at 9am we were both awake an couldn't sleep anymore. That was typical! Now, that we haven't planned anything for today and we could sleep, we have ants in our pants.
After breakfast Amy came to say good-bye. She joins Andrew on his flight back to China where they will spend Christmas together. Ramona and I went off then and bought some little things on our way to the FIT travel agency. There we booked our second trip which will start on Sunday. As the Ozzies have left us, we are now looking for other travellers to join us on our tour. Therefore, we wrote some notes and put these on the notice boards of several hotels. In addition to that, we booked a flight back to Chengdu for December 24. We should get confirmation some time in the afternoon.
The afternoon we spent on the Internet in order to type reports and work on pictures. We didn't hear anything from the FIT travel agency.
For dinner we met up again with the Dutch girl Nicole and some other travellers. Fortunately, there were two guys (Stefan and Stefan, both German) who will now join us for our second tour. This then will be cheaper for us and certainly more fun. The evening itself was quite funny as well as for a long time Ramona and I killed a bottle of red wine. We gradually have to prepare for the Christmas holidays. :)
After breakfast Amy came to say good-bye. She joins Andrew on his flight back to China where they will spend Christmas together. Ramona and I went off then and bought some little things on our way to the FIT travel agency. There we booked our second trip which will start on Sunday. As the Ozzies have left us, we are now looking for other travellers to join us on our tour. Therefore, we wrote some notes and put these on the notice boards of several hotels. In addition to that, we booked a flight back to Chengdu for December 24. We should get confirmation some time in the afternoon.
The afternoon we spent on the Internet in order to type reports and work on pictures. We didn't hear anything from the FIT travel agency.
For dinner we met up again with the Dutch girl Nicole and some other travellers. Fortunately, there were two guys (Stefan and Stefan, both German) who will now join us for our second tour. This then will be cheaper for us and certainly more fun. The evening itself was quite funny as well as for a long time Ramona and I killed a bottle of red wine. We gradually have to prepare for the Christmas holidays. :)
Thursday, December 18, 2003
Samye - Lhasa
Already at 7.50am we were at the bus station. The bus was supposed to take us to the river where we want to get the boat back to Tsetong. We wanted to meet up with Nobu at 10am. In fact, ta 8am a highly modern bus arrived but this one was going directly to Lhasa. We were supposed to wait for the minibus. OK ... if only it wasn't so cold. We had drunk our hot tea quickly but there was still no bus. At 8.45am finally. We jumped on the bus but the driver wouldn't move. Gee, let's go! Nobu is waiting and the boat ride is going to take at least another hour. At 9.30am a few Tibetans got off the bus again and fortunately a Japanese girl told us that the bus won't leave before 10.30am. We couldn't believe it. We got off as well and took our rucksacks which were on the roof of the bus. With a traktor we wanted to drive to the river. But Yuan 40? No, we'd rather walk. The driver wasn't prepared to bargain. Well, too bad. Another one offered us the ride for Yuan 25. Agreed. At 11.20am we arrived at the river. There was also a boat but noone who could drive it. And there were no people. No people, no boat. Oh no, this cannot be true. There we sat now on the beach ... it was damn cold and windy and we were doomed to wait. Around 12.45pm a Tibetan offered us to get us a boat driver. However, the boat ride would cost us Yuan 90. OK. We had no choice. Nobu is waiting. Hopefully. Ramona went off with the Tibetan whereas I was waiting with our luggage at the river. Fortunately, I had reception with my mobile and I could finally reach the travel agent. I asked him to inform Nobu. Ramona came back but without a boat driver. What now? Hold on, what's that? Isn't that a boat coming from the other side? Gee, that would be cool. That boat needs to go back anyway. And in fact, just for us and a Chinese guy the boat went back to Tsetong.
We enjoyed the sun and were laying comfy on the boat. We could only hope that Nobu hadn't given up and was still waiting for us. Then all of a sudden the boat stopped. But we are not in Tsetong yet.
What's going on now? We don't have time!! On the other side wee could see another boat with many people. One got of and came towards us. Why is that? Can't he decide where to go? We were just about to lay back again when we recognized that man. It was Nobu!! Gee, we were so happy. He has just come to pick us up. Gladly we ran into him.
At 4pm we arrived in Tsetong, six hours later than we were supposed to. Relieved we got on the jeep and at 6.30pm we were finally back in Lhasa. Back in our hotel, even in the same room as the week before. We were looking forward so much for our heating blankets! :)
We packed three big bags and gave it to the laundry and really knackered we had an easy evening. But what was wrong with the heating blankets? Power cut and again we had to freeze during the night.
We enjoyed the sun and were laying comfy on the boat. We could only hope that Nobu hadn't given up and was still waiting for us. Then all of a sudden the boat stopped. But we are not in Tsetong yet.
What's going on now? We don't have time!! On the other side wee could see another boat with many people. One got of and came towards us. Why is that? Can't he decide where to go? We were just about to lay back again when we recognized that man. It was Nobu!! Gee, we were so happy. He has just come to pick us up. Gladly we ran into him.
At 4pm we arrived in Tsetong, six hours later than we were supposed to. Relieved we got on the jeep and at 6.30pm we were finally back in Lhasa. Back in our hotel, even in the same room as the week before. We were looking forward so much for our heating blankets! :)
We packed three big bags and gave it to the laundry and really knackered we had an easy evening. But what was wrong with the heating blankets? Power cut and again we had to freeze during the night.
Wednesday, December 17, 2003
Gyantse - Samye
Already at 8am we were again in the jeep. Today it will be another long day in the car. We drove over the Simi La Pass. The sun was not there yet when we reached the first lake. Turquoise water, in the middle a castle on a small island. The first sunbeams light the mountains behind the lake. Awesome! The path on narrow, sandy and partly quiet bumpy roads leaded us to two other lakes, one is the Yamdrok-Tso lake. This is the third largest of Tibet. As the lake does not have any tapered rivers pessimists say that the lake could be dried up within the next 20 years. For us the lake was only beautiful thanks to its wonderful turquoise blue colours.
We went further up to the Mt. Kamala (4852 m) and from there down the Kora La Pass. That was quiet dangerous sometimes. The abysm was always close. In addition to that, there was one truck after the other, one overtaking manoeuvre was more spectacular than the other. Sometimes we really worked up to sweat. But Nobu managed every situation as a pro!
At the ferry station of Tsetong we learned from Amy, that Andrew wants to leave us. Homesick! He wants to get home to Canberra to see his girl-friend and family as soon as possible. Therefore, he asked Nobu to drive an extra 300 km so he will be in Lhasa tonight. Unbelievable! He could have at least discussed it with us and we would have found a solution together. But like that ... Amy went with him to Lhasa and again Ramona and I were on our own.
We took the ferry to Samye. Nobu made sure that we only had to pay Yuan 3. Same as the locals. The journey took 1.5 hours. We again were the only foreigners and were looked at all the time. Because of the sand storm it was really cold and we could hardly see anything.
Back on land we got on a bus which took us the 8 km to Samye. This ride as well was not very easy: through rivers, dried up stream courses, chuck holes, sand dunes. It was all in it.
Sight-Seeing was not possible anymore. It was already past 6pm and the monastery had been closed. Thus we strolled around the village. It again was an early night as we have to take the bus tomorrow morning at 8am.
We went further up to the Mt. Kamala (4852 m) and from there down the Kora La Pass. That was quiet dangerous sometimes. The abysm was always close. In addition to that, there was one truck after the other, one overtaking manoeuvre was more spectacular than the other. Sometimes we really worked up to sweat. But Nobu managed every situation as a pro!
At the ferry station of Tsetong we learned from Amy, that Andrew wants to leave us. Homesick! He wants to get home to Canberra to see his girl-friend and family as soon as possible. Therefore, he asked Nobu to drive an extra 300 km so he will be in Lhasa tonight. Unbelievable! He could have at least discussed it with us and we would have found a solution together. But like that ... Amy went with him to Lhasa and again Ramona and I were on our own.
We took the ferry to Samye. Nobu made sure that we only had to pay Yuan 3. Same as the locals. The journey took 1.5 hours. We again were the only foreigners and were looked at all the time. Because of the sand storm it was really cold and we could hardly see anything.
Back on land we got on a bus which took us the 8 km to Samye. This ride as well was not very easy: through rivers, dried up stream courses, chuck holes, sand dunes. It was all in it.
Sight-Seeing was not possible anymore. It was already past 6pm and the monastery had been closed. Thus we strolled around the village. It again was an early night as we have to take the bus tomorrow morning at 8am.
Tuesday, December 16, 2003
Lhatse - Gyantse
We went off at 10.20am. We had been on our way for not even an hour when we were forced to have an unintential break. We took a curve downhill and two small tractors were coming towards us. All of a sudden the last one stepped out of line in order to overtake the first tractor. The driver saw us and hesitated, but still continued to overtake. Oh no! He'll never manage! Nobu applied the brakes and tried to driver even further on the right side but it was already too late. It banged immensely. The driveshaft of the tractor had smashed our left mudguard. Totally calm Nobu got out of the car, stopped the motor of the tractor and looked at the mess. Luckily no-one was hurt. Then Nobu quietly talked to the tractor driver. No loud or angry word at all. In Germany we wouldn't have seen this. It didn't take long and about 15 Tibetan men surrounded us and discussed with Nobu what to do. After about an hour they agreed. They bulged the mudguard so that it didn't constrain the tyre anymore and everybody pooled expenses and gave Yuan 800 to Nobu for the reparation. Wow, they didn't have anything to do with the accident at all. But it seems to be like that in the small villages. Everybody helps everybody.
We continued our journey. In Shigatse we had our lunch break. The last hours of the drive were really comfortable. On a newly tared road, without bumps. Shortly before Gyantse Nobu turned to his right. Why is that? A police control. Well spotted! We drove round the control as we didn't have a permit to travel through that area. All went well and we got to our hotel.
It was already 4.15pm. Quick now, if we want to explore the city. Our rucksack in the room and off we were. Firstly to the Pelkor Chode Monastery and the Kumbum. Kumbum means "hundred thousands images". So many buddhas are supposed to be here. Drawed or as a statue. This could be as there were really loads. The Kumbum is a 9 stories tower. On each floor there were small chapels. All very colourful and the view from the top was great.
Then we wanted to see the Dzong. A fortress up on a hill. But it was already 5.30pm and the Dzong will be closed at 7pm. We had to walk quite far as well. Whether we will still get in? We gasped the way up to the second gate. And we got in. Firstly we went to the dungeon and to the torture chamber. A few wax figures should demonstrate how life was at that time. Quiet brutal and spooky! We went up to the top and again had a fantastic view. The sun was just saying good-bye. There were a lot of linked rooms. Of course we had to explore these. Fortunately, Nicole had her torch with her. At 7pm we had seen everything. The gate was closed just after we had passed it. Despite of obstacles a perfect day.
In the hotel we met Amy and went together to the restaurant in order to eat something. At 9.30pm we went to our rooms.
We continued our journey. In Shigatse we had our lunch break. The last hours of the drive were really comfortable. On a newly tared road, without bumps. Shortly before Gyantse Nobu turned to his right. Why is that? A police control. Well spotted! We drove round the control as we didn't have a permit to travel through that area. All went well and we got to our hotel.
It was already 4.15pm. Quick now, if we want to explore the city. Our rucksack in the room and off we were. Firstly to the Pelkor Chode Monastery and the Kumbum. Kumbum means "hundred thousands images". So many buddhas are supposed to be here. Drawed or as a statue. This could be as there were really loads. The Kumbum is a 9 stories tower. On each floor there were small chapels. All very colourful and the view from the top was great.
Then we wanted to see the Dzong. A fortress up on a hill. But it was already 5.30pm and the Dzong will be closed at 7pm. We had to walk quite far as well. Whether we will still get in? We gasped the way up to the second gate. And we got in. Firstly we went to the dungeon and to the torture chamber. A few wax figures should demonstrate how life was at that time. Quiet brutal and spooky! We went up to the top and again had a fantastic view. The sun was just saying good-bye. There were a lot of linked rooms. Of course we had to explore these. Fortunately, Nicole had her torch with her. At 7pm we had seen everything. The gate was closed just after we had passed it. Despite of obstacles a perfect day.
In the hotel we met Amy and went together to the restaurant in order to eat something. At 9.30pm we went to our rooms.
Monday, December 15, 2003
Rongbuk - Everest Base Camp - Lhatse
7.30am, the alarm-clock is ringing. An 8 km walk to the Everest Base Camp was on the plan. But not for me (Nicole). My stomach thwarted me again and dislike I had to leave Ramona on her own. Amy and Andrew didn't want to join anyway.
I (Ramona) was ready for takeoff. I had put on all T-Shirts, jumper and Fleece-jackets, 3 trousers and 2 pair of socks. This should keep me warm. It was 8.45am when I left the hotel. It dawne. The first two kilometers were quite easy, it was downhill. But the following were more difficult. In fact, it never was really steep uphill but even the slightest ascending slope wore me down. I steadily had to gasp. Now I really felt the 5,150 m. Every 100 m I had to stop in order to get my breath under control. My heart was beating like mad. Only now I realised that I had forgotten the oxygene. Well done! We had bought it especially for this. I was so glad every time I saw another kilometer stone. Only 3 more km to go and all of a sudden the wind set in. Of course from the front so that walking was even more difficult. But I won't give up. Then finally, the next stone. Only 2 km. But what was this? A hill of serpentines was in front of me. Do I have to pass this? Of course. I slowed down even more and still I had the feeling to almost drown. My legs lost more and more power. Then eventually, the last 1 km. At 10.45am I had made it. I was ever so proud! The sun was just showing up behind the mountain. There I stood now, all on my own at the Everest Base Camp.
Now the others can come and pick me up.
Amy, Andrew and I (Nicole) waited a long while for Nobu. As he hadn't shown up by 10.30am we woke him up. Only then we realised how cold it must have been in our room during the night. Degrees below zero as our water, tea, ... everything was frozen. It was even quite difficult to pack the rucksack. The hands so cold that one could hardly do up the zips. I also packed Ramona's rucksack. And I was shocked: the Oxygene! There she walks 8 km to the Everest Base Camp all on her own without additional oxygene. Hopefully she'll make it. I was really worried. Silly girl!
We picked up Ramona at 11.45am. Unfortunately I couldn't share her happiness as I didn't feel good at all. I even missed out on lunch. We took the same way back to Lhatse which we had
taken before. We were so happy when we finally arrived in Lhatse at 5.30pm. To warm up we went to the restaurant and had a cup of tea. Again it was an early night.
I (Ramona) was ready for takeoff. I had put on all T-Shirts, jumper and Fleece-jackets, 3 trousers and 2 pair of socks. This should keep me warm. It was 8.45am when I left the hotel. It dawne. The first two kilometers were quite easy, it was downhill. But the following were more difficult. In fact, it never was really steep uphill but even the slightest ascending slope wore me down. I steadily had to gasp. Now I really felt the 5,150 m. Every 100 m I had to stop in order to get my breath under control. My heart was beating like mad. Only now I realised that I had forgotten the oxygene. Well done! We had bought it especially for this. I was so glad every time I saw another kilometer stone. Only 3 more km to go and all of a sudden the wind set in. Of course from the front so that walking was even more difficult. But I won't give up. Then finally, the next stone. Only 2 km. But what was this? A hill of serpentines was in front of me. Do I have to pass this? Of course. I slowed down even more and still I had the feeling to almost drown. My legs lost more and more power. Then eventually, the last 1 km. At 10.45am I had made it. I was ever so proud! The sun was just showing up behind the mountain. There I stood now, all on my own at the Everest Base Camp.
Now the others can come and pick me up.
Amy, Andrew and I (Nicole) waited a long while for Nobu. As he hadn't shown up by 10.30am we woke him up. Only then we realised how cold it must have been in our room during the night. Degrees below zero as our water, tea, ... everything was frozen. It was even quite difficult to pack the rucksack. The hands so cold that one could hardly do up the zips. I also packed Ramona's rucksack. And I was shocked: the Oxygene! There she walks 8 km to the Everest Base Camp all on her own without additional oxygene. Hopefully she'll make it. I was really worried. Silly girl!
We picked up Ramona at 11.45am. Unfortunately I couldn't share her happiness as I didn't feel good at all. I even missed out on lunch. We took the same way back to Lhatse which we had
taken before. We were so happy when we finally arrived in Lhatse at 5.30pm. To warm up we went to the restaurant and had a cup of tea. Again it was an early night.
Sunday, December 14, 2003
Lhatse - Everest Base Camp - Rongbuk
We started our journey at 9.45am. Again through the wonderful landscape. At the first checkpoint we had to show our passports. Then we passed the first high pass. Lhakpa La Pass, 5220 m high. It got more and more exciting the closer we got to the Himalaya. Again down into a valley and on the other side steep uphill. The Pang La Pass, 5150 m. And then - finally, around the last curve and there it was. The Himalaya! From here we could see four mountains of more than 8,000 m high. The Cho Oyn - 8153 m, Lhotse - 8501 m, Makala - 8463 m and the Everest - 8848 m. Gigantic!
We again had to go in a valley in order to then take the last ascending slope to the Everest. There was the next checkpoint. We had to pay Yuan 65 entrance fee for the Everest area. In the next village we had lunch and off we were again. Only 101 km more to go to the Everest Base Camp - 5150 m. The road was really bumpy. We needed another two hours until we finally were there. An icecold wind was blowing. Almost as strong as on Mt. Fuji. We climbed a little hill in order to take better pictures. We had to gasp a lot as the altitude could be really felt.
Actually, the Base Camp is just a very big area where during summer time hundreds of tents are set up, and in the middle a river. On the hill there was a bit of snow and the river was partly frozen. It goes without saying that Nicole and I had to play up in the snow and clamour on the ice. It always cracked and sometimes we sacked in ankle-deep. But luckily there was no water underneath.
Then we went back. 8 km from the Base Camp there is the Rongbuk Monastery. The highest in the world. After we had seen the temples we crossed the road to our room for the night. First we got some hot tea and something to eat. Then we went to our 4 bed dorm. There was neither a shower nor electricity. Just a few holes as a toilet.
We were quite knackered from the long journey and thus it was an early night.
We again had to go in a valley in order to then take the last ascending slope to the Everest. There was the next checkpoint. We had to pay Yuan 65 entrance fee for the Everest area. In the next village we had lunch and off we were again. Only 101 km more to go to the Everest Base Camp - 5150 m. The road was really bumpy. We needed another two hours until we finally were there. An icecold wind was blowing. Almost as strong as on Mt. Fuji. We climbed a little hill in order to take better pictures. We had to gasp a lot as the altitude could be really felt.
Actually, the Base Camp is just a very big area where during summer time hundreds of tents are set up, and in the middle a river. On the hill there was a bit of snow and the river was partly frozen. It goes without saying that Nicole and I had to play up in the snow and clamour on the ice. It always cracked and sometimes we sacked in ankle-deep. But luckily there was no water underneath.
Then we went back. 8 km from the Base Camp there is the Rongbuk Monastery. The highest in the world. After we had seen the temples we crossed the road to our room for the night. First we got some hot tea and something to eat. Then we went to our 4 bed dorm. There was neither a shower nor electricity. Just a few holes as a toilet.
We were quite knackered from the long journey and thus it was an early night.
Saturday, December 13, 2003
Shigatse - Lhatse
8am - alarm clock one is ringing. 8.01am - second alarm clock. 8.03am - third one. We all switched them off and turned around again. Who needs breakfast? We all preferred to sleep a bit longer.
We were supposed to leave at 9am to drive to Lhatse. But there was another car in front of ours. Thus we had still breakfast. :)
On our way to Lhatse we stopped at the Sakye Monastery. Unfortunately at the wrong time. It was lunch break and most of the rooms were closed. We could only have a look at the great hall.
With regard to the landscape there was no big change to yesterday. High mountains desert, every now and then a river which was sometimes frozen and beautiful mountains. What caught our eyes was the fact that sheeps started to run crossing the streets when they had heard a car coming whereas donkeys were not interested at all. They keep on trotting, no matter whether there is a car or not. Is that the reason why we call them donkeys? :)
Lhatse actually is only a big street. Therefore we had quickly explored it. Back at our hotel we wanted to enjoy the sun but were quickly surrounded by kids. We played with them, learned a lot of Tibetan words - of course, we won't remember them tomorrow - ... We spent some time with the kids and only left them when the sun had gone and it was too cold.
Already about 6.30pm we went to bed. Without the luxury of a heating blanket it takes some time to warm up the bed and oneself. We read a lot in the shine of the candle as there was almost no electricity either.
We were supposed to leave at 9am to drive to Lhatse. But there was another car in front of ours. Thus we had still breakfast. :)
On our way to Lhatse we stopped at the Sakye Monastery. Unfortunately at the wrong time. It was lunch break and most of the rooms were closed. We could only have a look at the great hall.
With regard to the landscape there was no big change to yesterday. High mountains desert, every now and then a river which was sometimes frozen and beautiful mountains. What caught our eyes was the fact that sheeps started to run crossing the streets when they had heard a car coming whereas donkeys were not interested at all. They keep on trotting, no matter whether there is a car or not. Is that the reason why we call them donkeys? :)
Lhatse actually is only a big street. Therefore we had quickly explored it. Back at our hotel we wanted to enjoy the sun but were quickly surrounded by kids. We played with them, learned a lot of Tibetan words - of course, we won't remember them tomorrow - ... We spent some time with the kids and only left them when the sun had gone and it was too cold.
Already about 6.30pm we went to bed. Without the luxury of a heating blanket it takes some time to warm up the bed and oneself. We read a lot in the shine of the candle as there was almost no electricity either.
Friday, December 12, 2003
Lhasa - Shigatse
We had to get up at 5.30am. Again that early! We are soo tired. But today our tour to the Everest Base Camp started. At 6am our jeep arrived. We put away our rucksacks and off we were. The first part was to Shigatse, about 250 km from Lhasa. About 8am it got gradually light. The landscape was great. Huge mountains around us and we drove through the gorge. Then we passed a jeep who had been broken down. Our driver, Nobu, stopped to help. It didn't take him long to get the motor running again. We continued our drive. The sun slowly squeezed through the mountains and it got really warm. Nobu unswervingly sang Tibetan songs. Not bad at all. Only sometimes when he had to really concentrate because he was driving too fast into a curve or because a sheep was running in front of our car and he only just avoided not to run over it, he stopped singing.
We drove along the Friendship Highway. At the beginning a good road but then sporadic holes. There were more and more and at some point it was no road anymore but a gravel runway. We got tossed to and fro. Our poor back. We reached a huge valley. A river with lots of arms wiggles through it. There were also sand dunes like in a desert. It just looked beautiful. Nobu stopped at the roadside and took the car jack. Why is that? The tyres are not broken. He fixed the steering. Probably because of all the road holes it was blocked. It didn't take long and we drove on.
At 12.30pm we arrived in Shigatse. Nobu took us to the Tenzin Hotel where we got a 4 bed dorm. Now we need to eat something. Collywobbles. We hadn't had anything yet except for candies. After lunch Amy went to have a power nap. ??? We are here in order to explore the city. How can one go and sleep? It didn't matter. We went off.
Not far from our hotel was the Tashilunpo Monastery. We followed some pilgrims on a hill where the kora was. This was leading around the monastery, 3 km. After a while we thought we could climb the hill behind the monastery up to the flags. But where is the path? It lookes like it is a bit further up. Thus, we took a shortcut over the rocks. But we couldn't find a path. It didn't matter. We are used to climbing mountains. It was quite slippery with all that scree. Whether we are allowed to climb up? Of course, someone must have put the flags up there anyway. After 45 minutes we reached the top. Wow, what a view! Fantastic! We sat there for quite a while. The eagles were flying above us, the sun was shining and it was really warm.
At 5pm we forced ourselves to descend. This was quite dangerous. Really steep and slippery. But we managed it like a pro. Of course, we as old mountain climbers. Back down we walked the rest of the kora.
We were back at the hotel quite early. This was good as we had to make good for some sleep.
We drove along the Friendship Highway. At the beginning a good road but then sporadic holes. There were more and more and at some point it was no road anymore but a gravel runway. We got tossed to and fro. Our poor back. We reached a huge valley. A river with lots of arms wiggles through it. There were also sand dunes like in a desert. It just looked beautiful. Nobu stopped at the roadside and took the car jack. Why is that? The tyres are not broken. He fixed the steering. Probably because of all the road holes it was blocked. It didn't take long and we drove on.
At 12.30pm we arrived in Shigatse. Nobu took us to the Tenzin Hotel where we got a 4 bed dorm. Now we need to eat something. Collywobbles. We hadn't had anything yet except for candies. After lunch Amy went to have a power nap. ??? We are here in order to explore the city. How can one go and sleep? It didn't matter. We went off.
Not far from our hotel was the Tashilunpo Monastery. We followed some pilgrims on a hill where the kora was. This was leading around the monastery, 3 km. After a while we thought we could climb the hill behind the monastery up to the flags. But where is the path? It lookes like it is a bit further up. Thus, we took a shortcut over the rocks. But we couldn't find a path. It didn't matter. We are used to climbing mountains. It was quite slippery with all that scree. Whether we are allowed to climb up? Of course, someone must have put the flags up there anyway. After 45 minutes we reached the top. Wow, what a view! Fantastic! We sat there for quite a while. The eagles were flying above us, the sun was shining and it was really warm.
At 5pm we forced ourselves to descend. This was quite dangerous. Really steep and slippery. But we managed it like a pro. Of course, we as old mountain climbers. Back down we walked the rest of the kora.
We were back at the hotel quite early. This was good as we had to make good for some sleep.
Thursday, December 11, 2003
Lhasa
Ganden Monastery, second try! The alarm-clock was ringing at 5.45am. No more stomach problems but today we were both even more tired. Anyway, we forced ourselves to get up and left the hotel at 6.10am. 10 minutes later we were in a bus with only Tibetan pilgrims. And two kids had even to give their seats away for us. Of course, it was still dark outside and we couldn't see anything of the landscape. We were only happy that the windows remained closed. Even though there were a lot of people smoking. But it was soo cold. No wonder, even the windows were frozen from inside which reminded me of my beetle back at home.
About 8.10am we arrived in Ganden. It still was not really light and the moon shone on the houses of the village. Now we are at 4,500 m. How will we manage the altitude? We followed the pilgrims. First a bit uphill. We passed people trying to sell us coloured flags. These coloured flags are holy and almost everybody puts one on a bush or tree. This looks really good if there are loads of these flags at one place. Also the landscape was fantastic. Everywhere mountains and in the valley a river which looks like a delta. From above here one has the impression that all the stream courses together will build a huge lake in case it pours down with rain. Again and again we had to stop to take pictures. We walked around the mountain and then had a look at the village with its monastery. We saw the sunrise and gradually it got warm. We decided to walk around the mountain a second time and now everything looked even more beautiful. We could have sat there for hours just enjoying the landscape.
At 1pm we got on the bus. My teddy kangaroo from the outdoor shop caught the attraction of the Tibetan. I losened it from my jacket and gave it to a girl. After that the kangaroo did a round through almost the whole bus. It seems they had never seen anything like that before. Actually, now, in the daylight they were all interested in us and looked at us all the time. We could only reply though with a nice smile.
About 4pm we were back in Lhasa. As we hadn't eaten yet we went to the Tashi Restaurant. Then we hired two down sleeping bags in the outdoor shop and bought some oxygene for our trip to the Everest Base Camp. Who knows, maybe we'll need it. Back in the hotel we packed our rucksacks and prepared everything for the tour. We were both really excited!
About 8.10am we arrived in Ganden. It still was not really light and the moon shone on the houses of the village. Now we are at 4,500 m. How will we manage the altitude? We followed the pilgrims. First a bit uphill. We passed people trying to sell us coloured flags. These coloured flags are holy and almost everybody puts one on a bush or tree. This looks really good if there are loads of these flags at one place. Also the landscape was fantastic. Everywhere mountains and in the valley a river which looks like a delta. From above here one has the impression that all the stream courses together will build a huge lake in case it pours down with rain. Again and again we had to stop to take pictures. We walked around the mountain and then had a look at the village with its monastery. We saw the sunrise and gradually it got warm. We decided to walk around the mountain a second time and now everything looked even more beautiful. We could have sat there for hours just enjoying the landscape.
At 1pm we got on the bus. My teddy kangaroo from the outdoor shop caught the attraction of the Tibetan. I losened it from my jacket and gave it to a girl. After that the kangaroo did a round through almost the whole bus. It seems they had never seen anything like that before. Actually, now, in the daylight they were all interested in us and looked at us all the time. We could only reply though with a nice smile.
About 4pm we were back in Lhasa. As we hadn't eaten yet we went to the Tashi Restaurant. Then we hired two down sleeping bags in the outdoor shop and bought some oxygene for our trip to the Everest Base Camp. Who knows, maybe we'll need it. Back in the hotel we packed our rucksacks and prepared everything for the tour. We were both really excited!
Lhasa
Ganden Monastery, second try! The alarm-clock was ringing at 5.45am. No more stomach problems but today we were both even more tired. Anyway, we forced ourselves to get up and left the hotel at 6.10am. 10 minutes later we were in a bus with only Tibetan pilgrims. And two kids had even to give their seats away for us. Of course, it was still dark outside and we couldn't see anything of the landscape. We were only happy that the windows remained closed. Even though there were a lot of people smoking. But it was soo cold. No wonder, even the windows were frozen from inside which reminded me of my beetle back at home.
About 8.10am we arrived in Ganden. It still was not really light and the moon shone on the houses of the village. Now we are at 4,500 m. How will we manage the altitude? We followed the pilgrims. First a bit uphill. We passed people trying to sell us coloured flags. These coloured flags are holy and almost everybody puts one on a bush or tree. This looks really good if there are loads of these flags at one place. Also the landscape was fantastic. Everywhere mountains and in the valley a river which looks like a delta. From above here one has the impression that all the stream courses together will build a huge lake in case it pours down with rain. Again and again we had to stop to take pictures. We walked around the mountain and then had a look at the village with its monastery. We saw the sunrise and gradually it got warm. We decided to walk around the mountain a second time and now everything looked even more beautiful. We could have sat there for hours just enjoying the landscape.
At 1pm we got on the bus. My teddy kangaroo from the outdoor shop caught the attraction of the Tibetan. I losened it from my jacket and gave it to a girl. After that the kangaroo did a round through almost the whole bus. It seems they had never seen anything like that before. Actually, now, in the daylight they were all interested in us and looked at us all the time. We could only reply though with a nice smile.
About 4pm we were back in Lhasa. As we hadn't eaten yet we went to the Tashi Restaurant. Then we hired two down sleeping bags in the outdoor shop and bought some oxygene for our trip to the Everest Base Camp. Who knows, maybe we'll need it. Back in the hotel we packed our rucksacks and prepared everything for the tour. We were both really excited!
About 8.10am we arrived in Ganden. It still was not really light and the moon shone on the houses of the village. Now we are at 4,500 m. How will we manage the altitude? We followed the pilgrims. First a bit uphill. We passed people trying to sell us coloured flags. These coloured flags are holy and almost everybody puts one on a bush or tree. This looks really good if there are loads of these flags at one place. Also the landscape was fantastic. Everywhere mountains and in the valley a river which looks like a delta. From above here one has the impression that all the stream courses together will build a huge lake in case it pours down with rain. Again and again we had to stop to take pictures. We walked around the mountain and then had a look at the village with its monastery. We saw the sunrise and gradually it got warm. We decided to walk around the mountain a second time and now everything looked even more beautiful. We could have sat there for hours just enjoying the landscape.
At 1pm we got on the bus. My teddy kangaroo from the outdoor shop caught the attraction of the Tibetan. I losened it from my jacket and gave it to a girl. After that the kangaroo did a round through almost the whole bus. It seems they had never seen anything like that before. Actually, now, in the daylight they were all interested in us and looked at us all the time. We could only reply though with a nice smile.
About 4pm we were back in Lhasa. As we hadn't eaten yet we went to the Tashi Restaurant. Then we hired two down sleeping bags in the outdoor shop and bought some oxygene for our trip to the Everest Base Camp. Who knows, maybe we'll need it. Back in the hotel we packed our rucksacks and prepared everything for the tour. We were both really excited!
Wednesday, December 10, 2003
Lhasa
The first alarm clock went off at 5.35am and the second not at all. Nicole had forgotten about the time difference to Germany and so set her mobile for the wrong time. But luckily she was awake anyway. We wanted to go to the Ganden Monastery and the only bus going there leaves at 6.30am. I was just about to get up, as Nicole ran to the toilet. That doesn't sound good. Diarrhoea. Guess we better stay at the hotel. So we went on sleeping. We had a really relaxing day and Nicole could get rid of her sh!ts.
We'll try again tomorrow.
We'll try again tomorrow.
Tuesday, December 09, 2003
Lhasa
After breakfast (two soft boiled eggs, Tibetan bread and very sweet Tibetan jam) I worked on the computer to get my pictures done. Ramona in the meantime started to write the first Christmas cards.
At 1.15pm we met with a Tibetan who organised our tour to the Everest Base Camp. We got served butter tea... gee, we only had sips but the guy always poured more in our cup. But we didn't like it at all. In any case, our seven day tour will start on Friday at 6am.
On our way back to the hotel we bought a yellow round fruit Paul has told us about. It was big as a water melon and we didn't know how to eat it. Thus we asked our Nepalese cook in the hotel ... ah, well, it's a grapefruit. But much better than at home - not bitter at all and really sweet.
In the evening we met Nicole, a Dutch girl, for dinner. She has already been travelling in Tibet for several weeks. Al knew her and had made the contact between us. We got on quite well and laughed a lot. Also because of some women celebrating hilariously the "woman day". They laughed, danced and sang the whole time. We got the Tibetan alcohol "Chang" to try. It smells and tastes like a mixture of cider and a certain kind of wine (Federweisser). Actually quite good. I only learned later that it had been beer what we drank. Me and beer? Will I in the end start to like beer?
At 1.15pm we met with a Tibetan who organised our tour to the Everest Base Camp. We got served butter tea... gee, we only had sips but the guy always poured more in our cup. But we didn't like it at all. In any case, our seven day tour will start on Friday at 6am.
On our way back to the hotel we bought a yellow round fruit Paul has told us about. It was big as a water melon and we didn't know how to eat it. Thus we asked our Nepalese cook in the hotel ... ah, well, it's a grapefruit. But much better than at home - not bitter at all and really sweet.
In the evening we met Nicole, a Dutch girl, for dinner. She has already been travelling in Tibet for several weeks. Al knew her and had made the contact between us. We got on quite well and laughed a lot. Also because of some women celebrating hilariously the "woman day". They laughed, danced and sang the whole time. We got the Tibetan alcohol "Chang" to try. It smells and tastes like a mixture of cider and a certain kind of wine (Federweisser). Actually quite good. I only learned later that it had been beer what we drank. Me and beer? Will I in the end start to like beer?
Monday, December 08, 2003
Lhasa
At 9am we met with Amy and Andrew for breakfast at the hotel restaurant. We discussed the Everest Base Camp trip which we wanted to do together. It run so smoothly. We all had the same ideas of the trip. Great! Lianne, the Dutch girl from the Snowland Hotel, finally answered our message. We will meet at 12pm in the café opposite the hotel.
We found out that she already had found 2 other persons for her tour. But that was ok, as we were going with Amy and Andrew anyway. Lianne gave us a few tips of what to see. She had been travelling through Tibet for two months already. She also told us with whom she had booked her tour, as it was much cheaper than the one we got offered, although her trip was 2 days longer. Lianne was going to meet with the guy at 1pm and invited us to join. Ups, that was not very good timing for Nicole and me. We were supposed to meet Paul at the blind school. No problem. Amy and Andrew agreed to go alone. So we went on our way to the school.
On the way we stopped at a fruit stand to buy some for the kids. The guy at the stand really thought he could fool us. He wanted Yuan 150 for not even a kilo of mandarins, a pound of grapes and some kind of melon. That would have been over Euro 15!! He was obviously dreaming! We gave him Yuan 50, which still was too much, and left.
We found the blind school quickly. Paul was already waiting for us. We chatted a little with a cup of tea and then he showed us around and introduced us to the students. 32 children between 3 and 16 lived here. They all ran around wildly and played. They all spoke English very well and welcomed us wildly. When we asked them how they were, they answered: I am happy! A lot of the children had deformed eyes or couldn't open them at all. The blind rate in Tibet is very high compared to other regions in the world. Of 2.5 million inhabitants, 30,000 were officially known as blind. The reason is the climate and the lack of hygiene. Too high UV spurts, wind and dust, and too much soot from burning coal and Yak dung (Tibetan cow) in the huts and also lack of vitamin A.
Paul wanted to take the kids to the Potala Palace to take some pictures for a Christmas postcard. Great. That's where we wanted to go, too. So we joined them. Paul took the little ones in the car and the big kids went by foot. Nicole and me right in the middle. All around the clicking of the blindman's stick. It was amazing to see how they mastered the curbs and other balks. Even crossing the road was not a problem at all. They were chatting along and some were singing Tibetan songs. It was so great to be able to experience it all. At the Potala we met Paul with the little ones. Now the children had to line up for the photo. This was not really a problem, but all the nosy people who surrounded us and didn't leave us air to breathe. It was much more work to make them step aside a bit than to line up the kids. After the photo shooting we had to say good-bye. This will always be some forgettable hours in our life.
We wanted to visit the Potala Palace and went to the entrance. The palace was huge. It has a 1,000 rooms, but only 25 were open to the public. At the entrance they told us the Potala was closed. Why? But their English was not that good. What do we do now? Let's go to the Summer Palace. And how do we get there without the travel book? We'll ask at a hotel. They did speak English a little but of the Summer Palace they have never heard before. Strange, or maybe they only know it under a different name? Well, let's go to the Tashi restaurant instead and have some cheese- and chocolate cakes. Maybe after that we will have more luck.
We went to a small temple which was hidden behind the houses in a small alley. Paul had told us about it. Here were many beggars. It did get a little uncomfortable as we didn't want to give them money and we didn't have any more food with us. Also, if you give something to one of them, the others will come as well. We went to the entrance and stopped. There were so many people praying. In the middle sat a few monks who were saying a prayer through some loud speakers. We really would have liked to go in but we were a little scared. We didn't want to disturb them. The
people seemed to be happy to see us and were all greeting us with: "Tashi delek" which means hello how are you. An elderly woman who sat next to the entrance signaled us to take off our hats and go inside. Should we really? But already a little boy came and pulled us with him. We went round the praying way through the whole temple. There were only little space to walk, so many people sat here. Everywhere candles were burning and it was nice and warm. In front of the walls were many Buddha statues where the praying people put money. The boy always turned round to make sure we were still there. How sweet. At the exit he left us. He hadn't spoken a word.
We went to the Barkhor Square. Hundreds of pilgrims were walking their rounds. Today was a kind of mothers day or valentine. All men gave presents to their women and went to pray with them. If we could also go inside the Jokhang Temple now? We tried it and just lined up with the others. An in we were. Everywhere were police men to get the masses of people moving. The main cathedral unfortunately was closed and so we went with the pilgrims round the praying way. What an
experience.
On our way back to the hotel we met Amy and Andrew. They wanted to go and eat. So we joined them. We still had to discuss how the meeting with that guy at lunch time went.
We found out that she already had found 2 other persons for her tour. But that was ok, as we were going with Amy and Andrew anyway. Lianne gave us a few tips of what to see. She had been travelling through Tibet for two months already. She also told us with whom she had booked her tour, as it was much cheaper than the one we got offered, although her trip was 2 days longer. Lianne was going to meet with the guy at 1pm and invited us to join. Ups, that was not very good timing for Nicole and me. We were supposed to meet Paul at the blind school. No problem. Amy and Andrew agreed to go alone. So we went on our way to the school.
On the way we stopped at a fruit stand to buy some for the kids. The guy at the stand really thought he could fool us. He wanted Yuan 150 for not even a kilo of mandarins, a pound of grapes and some kind of melon. That would have been over Euro 15!! He was obviously dreaming! We gave him Yuan 50, which still was too much, and left.
We found the blind school quickly. Paul was already waiting for us. We chatted a little with a cup of tea and then he showed us around and introduced us to the students. 32 children between 3 and 16 lived here. They all ran around wildly and played. They all spoke English very well and welcomed us wildly. When we asked them how they were, they answered: I am happy! A lot of the children had deformed eyes or couldn't open them at all. The blind rate in Tibet is very high compared to other regions in the world. Of 2.5 million inhabitants, 30,000 were officially known as blind. The reason is the climate and the lack of hygiene. Too high UV spurts, wind and dust, and too much soot from burning coal and Yak dung (Tibetan cow) in the huts and also lack of vitamin A.
Paul wanted to take the kids to the Potala Palace to take some pictures for a Christmas postcard. Great. That's where we wanted to go, too. So we joined them. Paul took the little ones in the car and the big kids went by foot. Nicole and me right in the middle. All around the clicking of the blindman's stick. It was amazing to see how they mastered the curbs and other balks. Even crossing the road was not a problem at all. They were chatting along and some were singing Tibetan songs. It was so great to be able to experience it all. At the Potala we met Paul with the little ones. Now the children had to line up for the photo. This was not really a problem, but all the nosy people who surrounded us and didn't leave us air to breathe. It was much more work to make them step aside a bit than to line up the kids. After the photo shooting we had to say good-bye. This will always be some forgettable hours in our life.
We wanted to visit the Potala Palace and went to the entrance. The palace was huge. It has a 1,000 rooms, but only 25 were open to the public. At the entrance they told us the Potala was closed. Why? But their English was not that good. What do we do now? Let's go to the Summer Palace. And how do we get there without the travel book? We'll ask at a hotel. They did speak English a little but of the Summer Palace they have never heard before. Strange, or maybe they only know it under a different name? Well, let's go to the Tashi restaurant instead and have some cheese- and chocolate cakes. Maybe after that we will have more luck.
We went to a small temple which was hidden behind the houses in a small alley. Paul had told us about it. Here were many beggars. It did get a little uncomfortable as we didn't want to give them money and we didn't have any more food with us. Also, if you give something to one of them, the others will come as well. We went to the entrance and stopped. There were so many people praying. In the middle sat a few monks who were saying a prayer through some loud speakers. We really would have liked to go in but we were a little scared. We didn't want to disturb them. The
people seemed to be happy to see us and were all greeting us with: "Tashi delek" which means hello how are you. An elderly woman who sat next to the entrance signaled us to take off our hats and go inside. Should we really? But already a little boy came and pulled us with him. We went round the praying way through the whole temple. There were only little space to walk, so many people sat here. Everywhere candles were burning and it was nice and warm. In front of the walls were many Buddha statues where the praying people put money. The boy always turned round to make sure we were still there. How sweet. At the exit he left us. He hadn't spoken a word.
We went to the Barkhor Square. Hundreds of pilgrims were walking their rounds. Today was a kind of mothers day or valentine. All men gave presents to their women and went to pray with them. If we could also go inside the Jokhang Temple now? We tried it and just lined up with the others. An in we were. Everywhere were police men to get the masses of people moving. The main cathedral unfortunately was closed and so we went with the pilgrims round the praying way. What an
experience.
On our way back to the hotel we met Amy and Andrew. They wanted to go and eat. So we joined them. We still had to discuss how the meeting with that guy at lunch time went.
Sunday, December 07, 2003
Lhasa
We obviously had needed our sleep. We only got up at 1pm. For breakfast we again hat the delicious potatoes. Today, the Jokhang Temple was closed for us. So we strolled around the Tromsikhang Market. Actually, the whole area is a market. One can buy fruits, butter, bread, potatoes, vegetables, clothes, climbing ropes, nails, safety pins, ... just everything. And of course everything from the Yak. Meat, milk, tea, tents, fur, ... The Tromsikhang Market is as a shopping mall on two floors. On the first floor one can only buy butter. Yak butter. It looks like cheese, also smells like cheese. We tried it ... it is butter! The whole floor smells like butter. One really needs getting used to this. On the second floor one finds also shoes, clothes, food, chemist, electrical equipment, stationery, toys, ... just like a shopping mall. And still different. Most of the salesmen/women sit cramped and squeezed on a chair behind or in front of the stuff they sell. They can hardly move and one questions how they got their at all.
On our way to the nunnery we strolled through some alleys and back roads. Great - we could see how people here live. But the nicest was with the kids. Dirty clothes, dirty hands, running noses ... and still cute! They were so happy when they could say "hello" in English. We started to take pictures of them which made them totally crazy. Again and again more pictures, in all positions, alone or with others. Even elderly women did want to be on the pictures. When we showed them the pictures, we were almost knocked over. Everybody wanted to see him/herself first on the display. How they laughed when they had seen themselves on the picture! They were so excited and happy. They even took the camera of our hands, wanted to take pictures themselves. We didn't have the heart ... and gave them our cameras.
In another corner we played football with the kids. Their eyes shined when they played the ball to us. They laughed so much when we held our head after a header. We had great fun and it was really nice to see how easy it is to make children happy.
The nunnery wasn't what one would expect. What we had seen were a few houses arranged in a square in which the nuns live. An absolutely peaceful place though. A few nuns did the washing in a font, otherwise we only got to see a few nuns going from one house to another. It was amazing though how young they all seemed.
In the evening we had dinner in the famous Tashi restaurant. Here we got to know Paul, the partner of the world-wide known blind German woman Sabriye Tenberken, who has opened a blind school here in Lhasa. (www.braillewithoutborders.org). Paul told us so much that we agreed on meeting again tomorrow in the blind school.
On our way to the nunnery we strolled through some alleys and back roads. Great - we could see how people here live. But the nicest was with the kids. Dirty clothes, dirty hands, running noses ... and still cute! They were so happy when they could say "hello" in English. We started to take pictures of them which made them totally crazy. Again and again more pictures, in all positions, alone or with others. Even elderly women did want to be on the pictures. When we showed them the pictures, we were almost knocked over. Everybody wanted to see him/herself first on the display. How they laughed when they had seen themselves on the picture! They were so excited and happy. They even took the camera of our hands, wanted to take pictures themselves. We didn't have the heart ... and gave them our cameras.
In another corner we played football with the kids. Their eyes shined when they played the ball to us. They laughed so much when we held our head after a header. We had great fun and it was really nice to see how easy it is to make children happy.
The nunnery wasn't what one would expect. What we had seen were a few houses arranged in a square in which the nuns live. An absolutely peaceful place though. A few nuns did the washing in a font, otherwise we only got to see a few nuns going from one house to another. It was amazing though how young they all seemed.
In the evening we had dinner in the famous Tashi restaurant. Here we got to know Paul, the partner of the world-wide known blind German woman Sabriye Tenberken, who has opened a blind school here in Lhasa. (www.braillewithoutborders.org). Paul told us so much that we agreed on meeting again tomorrow in the blind school.
Saturday, December 06, 2003
Chengdu - Lhasa (Tibet)
Suddenly with a jump we sat upright in bed. What was that noise outside out room? Bursting glas and something (or someone?) fell with a loud bang off the second or third floor. It sound like someone fell onto a car. But the noise didn't stop. We could hear low voices and then someone knocked on our door. Very scary. Everything was dark. It was only 4.30am. It was the hostel manager. He was looking for a Japanese who he thought was sleeping in our room. This night we had a full room again. We woke up the Japanese guy. He was asked to help translate. On the third floor a Japanese man was going mad and broke all the windows. Nobody could understand him. But today it was impossible to solve the problem. The guy was too much in a shock. And that from a Japanese. We only know them calm and friendly.
At 9am we got up. We still didn't know when our bus will leave to the airport. But first we went to have a shower. Who knows when we will get the next one in Tibet. When we were ready, we met Tenzin, the guy who booked our flight tickets. Our bus will leave at 11am. Now, we also got to find out what had happened last night. The Japanese thought to have lost all his money. It must have been quite a lot. He got such a shock that he totally freaked out. But this morning the money was found again.
Now we had to pack. We have almost forgotten how to do that. It has been such a long time. At 11am we got picked up by the bus to go to the airport. The check-in went smoothly and quickly we sat in our plane. Tibet, here we come! Another dream comes true. At 3.10pm we landed. The sun was shining and all around were mountains. It looked wonderful. From the airport to Lhasa it was still 93 km to go, so we took the bus.
At the Flora Hotel they welcomed us with a hot cup of tea. We got a double room, which over here they call dorm, for Yuan 30. Even with a private toilet. The shower was 2 doors further though. And the best is: we have an electric blanket! Oh, this will be such a nice warm night.
We went for a little walk through the town. Back at the hotel a tour organizer was awaiting us. The
receptionist had called him, as she heard that we were interested to go to the Everest Base Camp. What a service! The man offered us a 5 day trip for Yuan 4,800. The price is per car. So if we find some other persons who would like to join... And there came Amy and Andrew, the Australian couple who were on the plane with us, through the door. They were thrilled of the idea. Great. We will discuss the details tomorrow and then book the tour.
At 9am we got up. We still didn't know when our bus will leave to the airport. But first we went to have a shower. Who knows when we will get the next one in Tibet. When we were ready, we met Tenzin, the guy who booked our flight tickets. Our bus will leave at 11am. Now, we also got to find out what had happened last night. The Japanese thought to have lost all his money. It must have been quite a lot. He got such a shock that he totally freaked out. But this morning the money was found again.
Now we had to pack. We have almost forgotten how to do that. It has been such a long time. At 11am we got picked up by the bus to go to the airport. The check-in went smoothly and quickly we sat in our plane. Tibet, here we come! Another dream comes true. At 3.10pm we landed. The sun was shining and all around were mountains. It looked wonderful. From the airport to Lhasa it was still 93 km to go, so we took the bus.
At the Flora Hotel they welcomed us with a hot cup of tea. We got a double room, which over here they call dorm, for Yuan 30. Even with a private toilet. The shower was 2 doors further though. And the best is: we have an electric blanket! Oh, this will be such a nice warm night.
We went for a little walk through the town. Back at the hotel a tour organizer was awaiting us. The
receptionist had called him, as she heard that we were interested to go to the Everest Base Camp. What a service! The man offered us a 5 day trip for Yuan 4,800. The price is per car. So if we find some other persons who would like to join... And there came Amy and Andrew, the Australian couple who were on the plane with us, through the door. They were thrilled of the idea. Great. We will discuss the details tomorrow and then book the tour.
Friday, December 05, 2003
Chengdu
This morning nothing worked. Only at 11.30am we forced ourselves to get up and booked our flight to Lhasa. No breakfast today as we preferred the great potatoes in the Renmin Park. So we went there for the second time. Today we took another entrance and surprisingly had only to pay half of the entrance fee. The potato booth though was closed. Lunch break. OK, we'll come back. We wanted to go to the Underground Museum first. But we probably were just too stupid again. We went to and fro, back and forth, asked several times for the direction but we didn't manage to find the museum. After we had passed the potato booth for the fifth time and it was still closed we had enough. Now, we'll have a burger at McD.
There a Chinese girl and a guy from New Zealand were looking for English teachers. Their offer was really alluring and we got their business cards. One never knows.
Now we need some more clothes for Tibet. We found loads in the big shopping mall and also got to know LinYaLan, a young Chinese girl. She helped us translating with the sales women. She really seemed to enjoy that so that she and her friend DengLingLing decided to take us to another shopping street. Here one can cheaply buy hats, scarfs, gloves, etc. LinYaLan bargained for us and we went off brimming with plastic bags. But on top of this they also invited us for dinner in a famous hotel-restaurant. We got served so many dishes, one after the other. Always more - and we had to try everything. Oh dear! At the end we got a picture taken at the Tianfu Square with the four of us.
There a Chinese girl and a guy from New Zealand were looking for English teachers. Their offer was really alluring and we got their business cards. One never knows.
Now we need some more clothes for Tibet. We found loads in the big shopping mall and also got to know LinYaLan, a young Chinese girl. She helped us translating with the sales women. She really seemed to enjoy that so that she and her friend DengLingLing decided to take us to another shopping street. Here one can cheaply buy hats, scarfs, gloves, etc. LinYaLan bargained for us and we went off brimming with plastic bags. But on top of this they also invited us for dinner in a famous hotel-restaurant. We got served so many dishes, one after the other. Always more - and we had to try everything. Oh dear! At the end we got a picture taken at the Tianfu Square with the four of us.
Thursday, December 04, 2003
Chengdu
The day started with a long Internet session. Whether we'll manage to type our reports today? No, we didn't. Too many emails wanted to be answered. But tomorrow is another day.
In the evening we had something to eat and wanted to go to the movies which we couldn't do yesterday. Unfortunately though, we had forgotten the cinema's address in our hostel. With the help of our phrasebook we wrote the Chinese name. It's not that easy at all to draw these Chinese characters. But the taxi driver could read it without any problems.
We watched "The league of extraordinary gentleman" with Sean Connery. Thank God the entrance fee was only Euro 1. Every other Euro would have been a waste.
In the evening we had something to eat and wanted to go to the movies which we couldn't do yesterday. Unfortunately though, we had forgotten the cinema's address in our hostel. With the help of our phrasebook we wrote the Chinese name. It's not that easy at all to draw these Chinese characters. But the taxi driver could read it without any problems.
We watched "The league of extraordinary gentleman" with Sean Connery. Thank God the entrance fee was only Euro 1. Every other Euro would have been a waste.
Wednesday, December 03, 2003
Chengdu
Today was my (Ramona) birthday so I got to sleep very long. At noon Nicole came to wake me up for breakfast. She had already ordered our mueslies and lit a candle for me. How sweet! I even got two presents. Yippie!
In the afternoon we went shopping. Tony, the tour guide from the hostel, offered us to show us round some outdoor shops. His boss and the cook joined also. Maybe we can find an even better jacket than the one from yesterday. But no, nothing. We thought we would now go to some other shops, but Tony said they would have to do some work now. How nice. If we had known that before.
We took a taxi and went to Sam's Guesthouse. Here we wanted to check also, if there are some other oportunities to get to Tibet. And there was an outdoor shop just next door. Sam's Guesthouse also only offered flights which cost Yuan 1,750, just like at our hostel. And the outdoor shop didn't have any jackets either. So we went to the shop from last night. They had promised to keep the jackets until tonight. But when we got there, the bunny said she had just sold the red one. How can that be? Yesterday we asked 3 times wheather it's possible to hold them for us! What cheek! Nicole was really angry. She had chosen the red jacket. Unfortunately, they only had this one jacket. The bunny went to speak to her boss. When she came back, she said that they would go and get the jacket back. The guy who bought it is a friend of the boss, so it wouldn't be a problem. Wow! We had to wait about 30 minutes and Nicole got her jacket, too. Of course, we now asked for a discount as we had to wait so long. We got the jackets Yuan 70 cheaper. Perfect!
To celebrate the day, we went to the restaurant next door again. HighFly Pizza. Just like yesterday it was ever so delicious! After dinner we wanted to go to the movies. But the show had already begun and the next one only started at 10.15pm. Far too late. We went back to the hostel and met Mats with a girl. They wanted to watch a dvd and asked us if we would like to join. Sure! So we did get to see our film in the end.
Well, so fast the birthday was over. Although it was just a normal day, it was also a unique one. I don't think it will be soon that I will be celebrating my
birthday in China again. I'd like to say thank you to all of you who thought of me and sent me all the lovely emails.
In the afternoon we went shopping. Tony, the tour guide from the hostel, offered us to show us round some outdoor shops. His boss and the cook joined also. Maybe we can find an even better jacket than the one from yesterday. But no, nothing. We thought we would now go to some other shops, but Tony said they would have to do some work now. How nice. If we had known that before.
We took a taxi and went to Sam's Guesthouse. Here we wanted to check also, if there are some other oportunities to get to Tibet. And there was an outdoor shop just next door. Sam's Guesthouse also only offered flights which cost Yuan 1,750, just like at our hostel. And the outdoor shop didn't have any jackets either. So we went to the shop from last night. They had promised to keep the jackets until tonight. But when we got there, the bunny said she had just sold the red one. How can that be? Yesterday we asked 3 times wheather it's possible to hold them for us! What cheek! Nicole was really angry. She had chosen the red jacket. Unfortunately, they only had this one jacket. The bunny went to speak to her boss. When she came back, she said that they would go and get the jacket back. The guy who bought it is a friend of the boss, so it wouldn't be a problem. Wow! We had to wait about 30 minutes and Nicole got her jacket, too. Of course, we now asked for a discount as we had to wait so long. We got the jackets Yuan 70 cheaper. Perfect!
To celebrate the day, we went to the restaurant next door again. HighFly Pizza. Just like yesterday it was ever so delicious! After dinner we wanted to go to the movies. But the show had already begun and the next one only started at 10.15pm. Far too late. We went back to the hostel and met Mats with a girl. They wanted to watch a dvd and asked us if we would like to join. Sure! So we did get to see our film in the end.
Well, so fast the birthday was over. Although it was just a normal day, it was also a unique one. I don't think it will be soon that I will be celebrating my
birthday in China again. I'd like to say thank you to all of you who thought of me and sent me all the lovely emails.
Tuesday, December 02, 2003
Leshan
Leshan, we want to go to Leshan. Famous for the largest sitting buddha in the world. 71 m high. We mustn't miss that and went on our own as tours to Leshan were too expensive. To our surprise we got there without any problems. Not once we were lost and were really proud of ourselves. To take the best picture of the buddha one needs to be on a boat. OK, let's take the boat then. But our disappointment was huge. As huge as the buddha is tall. Gee, is he ugly. And his face, hands and feet had just been redone. And we even want to walk there? Not really! We let a coin decide which really amused the Chinese on the boat. We had to walk! It was nice but the buddha ... well, for us it wasn't worth going there. In addition to that, the whole trip had still been quite expensive.
We had to get rid of our frustration in a Western restaurant. We just needed it. One of the only warm places in Chengdu (another one is McD!) Here, the Chinese leave the doors and windows open all day long. And it's sooo cold here. It's not that the Chinese don't freeze, even they wear thick coats, hats and scarfs ... but they want fresh air to breathe! That's probably the reason why we got such a bad cold in Chengdu. Anyway, we've been to that Western Restaurant and we really enjoyed it. It not only was warm, no, the laminate floor was so clean that we didn't have to pay attention where to put our rucksacks. The chairs were so soft almost like armchairs. Plates and glasses were clean, good music. The atmosphere was very warm, no burbing and spitting, loud Chinese. A real event. But we weren't used anymore to eat with knife and fork as we are now Champions in eating with chopsticks. The food itself was a feast. Mushroom cream soup, garlic bread and a delicious pizza. We had to order three dishes as we couldn't decide ... but couldn't eat everything. Far too much. Including a coke and a tea we only had to pay about Euro 5. Actually quite expensive for China!
In an outdoor shop next door we found two nice down jackets. We will definitely need these for Tibet and asked the bunnies whether they could keep them for us until tomorrow. Certainly, no problem at all.
We had to get rid of our frustration in a Western restaurant. We just needed it. One of the only warm places in Chengdu (another one is McD!) Here, the Chinese leave the doors and windows open all day long. And it's sooo cold here. It's not that the Chinese don't freeze, even they wear thick coats, hats and scarfs ... but they want fresh air to breathe! That's probably the reason why we got such a bad cold in Chengdu. Anyway, we've been to that Western Restaurant and we really enjoyed it. It not only was warm, no, the laminate floor was so clean that we didn't have to pay attention where to put our rucksacks. The chairs were so soft almost like armchairs. Plates and glasses were clean, good music. The atmosphere was very warm, no burbing and spitting, loud Chinese. A real event. But we weren't used anymore to eat with knife and fork as we are now Champions in eating with chopsticks. The food itself was a feast. Mushroom cream soup, garlic bread and a delicious pizza. We had to order three dishes as we couldn't decide ... but couldn't eat everything. Far too much. Including a coke and a tea we only had to pay about Euro 5. Actually quite expensive for China!
In an outdoor shop next door we found two nice down jackets. We will definitely need these for Tibet and asked the bunnies whether they could keep them for us until tomorrow. Certainly, no problem at all.
Monday, December 01, 2003
Chengdu
We were picked up by Crow, a young Chinese girl, at 7.10am. Today we'll spend a day with her at the Sichuan University. Two lessons of English, two lessons of Japanese and after the two hours lunch break two lessons of English literature - the first two for Ramona and me. Not only for that reason these were the most interesting to us. The teacher was so enthusiastic and excited when he interpreted Antony's public speech of Julius Caesar. We almost believed to listen to Antony himself. Ramona even imagined everything in pictures - with closed eyes and open mouth. She even nodded confirming. Whether the teacher has seen her? He finished his one hour monologue and opened the second lesson for discussion. We were asked to tell about Shakespeare and his significance in our life. It was obvious that he would pick me as well to stand in the front. But what should I tell about Shakespeare? Today it's the first time I read something from him (not about him!). But I was lucky and was allowed to talk about anything I wanted as I was 'one of the two young ladies from Germany'. I talked about our impressions of China. Together with Ramona we then discussed with the students how to best learn English. The hour passed far too quickly. But after that discussion many students weren't afraid anymore to talk to us.
It was almost 5pm when we left the university. Quite tiring. Long time ago that we went to school.
It was almost 5pm when we left the university. Quite tiring. Long time ago that we went to school.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)