Saturday, January 31, 2004

Bangkok

Today was the day when Nicole and I wanted to plan our travels in Thailand. Again we only have 30 days in the country we have to decide what to see and where to go.

We spent the whold day reading the Lonely Planet of Thailand and mark everything we are interested in. Oh no! If we want to see all these things we'd need at least three months. Again we have to skip things. You see, it's really not easy to travel.

Friday, January 30, 2004

Bangkok

Again we had breakfast at 9am. This time cornflakes and bread with Nutella.

After that we again went to the tourist road. Here, one can cheaply buy travel guides which we did. Ramona and I went for a long shopping tour which wasn't planned at all and in the afternoon we met Al in the Internet-Cafe.

There we spent the rest of the afternoon/evening. :(

Thursday, January 29, 2004

Bangkok

At 9am we had breakfast. But not for Nicole as she had stomach problems and was still lying in bed. So, Al and I went off on our own. We again tried the elephant museum which was closed yesterday by the time we got there. We were asked for our tickets and we just showed them the ones from yesterday. No problems. We got in and had a look. The museum used to be an elephant stable where the king held his white elephants.

We walked to Wat Saket, the golden hill. A small hill with a temple on top. From here one has a good view of Bangkok. But it wasn't really nice.

In the afternoon we went to the snake farm. The second in the world - the first is in Brazil. First we got to see a slide show. Thailand is the home of more than 180 varieties of snakes of which 56 are important venomous. The snake farm established a local production facility that utilizes the venom of snakes from this region for making antivenoms. These will then be distributed in the whole of Thailand and partly even exported abroad. After the show we took our seats in a kind of arena and we were showed different snakes. One of the scientists said everybody who has a camera should come down. We were allowed to stay next to him to take even better pictures. Al and I jumped up immediately. But then they laid the huge poisonous snakes just in front of our feet and all of a sudden we didn't want to be that close anymore. We were shown how the snakes snap and sometimes it looked as if they wanted to escape and sneak towards us. Our heart beat double as fast as usually. But the controller were there and pulled the snakes back. They showed us king cobras, pythons, ... I can't remember the names of all the others. In addition to that, they showed us how the milk the snakes. It was all really interesting. At the end of the show everybody who was brave enough was allowed to have a python around the neck. It's obvious that we were brave again - this one wasn't poisonous.

We drove back to the hostel and picked up Nicole. She felt a bit better and we wanted to go and see Thai boxing. We saw 10 fights each of 5 rounds. Gee, did they fight. The locals seemed to have liked the betting even more. From the third round onwards there was a steady roar. It was almost more interesting for us to observe them than the boxers. Around 11pm the spectacle was over and we went back to the hostel.

Wednesday, January 28, 2004

Bangkok

Breakfast at 9am in the hostel. Two times soft boiled eggs with toast and tea and one times breakfast set for Al. Easy, isn't it? Not for the people in the hostel. Al and Ramona got her breakfast after a few to and fros but at 9.45am I still didn't have what I wanted. Well, I could have had it if I had wanted the soft boiled eggs which were so soft that even the white bits were still soft.

We wanted to go to the Grand Palace in which we can also see the King's palace. We took a tuk tuk. Tuk Tuks are like motorised rickshaws and you can see those in Thailand everywhere. When we got off we were immediately attacked by the next Tuk Tuk drivers. The palace is closed and we should go and have a look at something different. Yes, right! It was obvious that they wanted to cheet us. We just ignored them and went further. And look there - the entrance. Isn't that funny? But the halls described in our travel guide we couldn't find. Even the huge 45m long golden lying Buddha wasn't mentioned with a word. Something is wrong here ... I read a bit more and found out that we weren't in the Grand Palace at all. Great!

The Grand Palace has a lunch break according to the travel guide. This is why we decided to first go to the Teak Mansion and the elephant museum. But the Tuk Tuk drivers wanted more. They wanted to take us to a jeweller or a silk factory. No, not with us. We'd rather walk. It was a long way and damn hot but we didn't want to get cheeted. However, we pissed about, looked here and there so that at 1pm we were just inbetween the Mansion and Grand Palace. Well, we thus went back to the Grand Palace - also because with the entrance ticket of that we could get in the Mansion for free.

We wanted a guide for the Grand Palace. He could tell us a lot about the place. It was built in 1782 and there's not only the King's palace and halls but also administration offices and the temple of the smaragd buddha. The whole area is about 200,000qm and surrounded by a 1,900m long wall.

After this we eventually went to the Mansion. We even decided to take another tuk tuk. But we had to spend 10 minutes at a jeweller. OK, if we really have to! But first of all we were stuck in traffic. Gee, must that be? We don't have time - the mansion closes at 4pm and it's already past 3pm. Eventually we stopped at the jeweller. We went in for a couple of minutes, looked at a few things and left. When we got out the Tuk Tuk driver was shocked. We hadn't bought anything now he doesn't get any commission. Wow, that he took it that seriously. He swore like a trooper but we just ignored him. We took our seats again and waited until he had calmed down. He finally took us to the mansion but he wasn't happy with us.

Well, to be honest, the mansion wasn't worth going to. Unfortunately, we went there first and when we got to the Elephant museum it was closed.

What now? We could gradually think about food. It's already past 4pm. Ramona and Al however had great fun to dapple around with the water for the grass trying to wet the other. Just like children! :)

We had decided for a vegetarian restaurant but it was quiet far away so we had to take a taxi. This one only took us to the right street but not to the restaurant. On our way to the restaurant we passed a huge square where there were hundreds of people in blue T-Shirts. What's going on here? We'll have to have a look. Gee - Aerobic. Al and I (Nicole) walked a bit faster ... and joined the group. The coach was on a stage and liked that we were joining them. He was even encouraging us to keep on going. Ramona though preferred to just watch the whole spectacle.

Wet from sweat, we kept on looking for a restaurant. The chosen one didn't really catch our attraction. But over there, this looks nice. Oooh, but also posh.... doesn't matter - if they don't want us they can tell us. They didn't and we had a really nice dinner, even with live music.

On our way back to the hostel we tried again to find the golden standing buddha. And this time we even found it. We couldn't go in front of it though but at least we saw it from far.

Tuesday, January 27, 2004

Manila - Bangkok

Again a short night. We got up at 7.45am as we had ordered a taxi for 8.30am. Only in the taxi I (Nicole) realized that our flight to Bangkok leaves 20 minutes earlier than we thought. Luckily though we still had enough time to catch our flight.

The flight was ok and Ramona and I made our first plans about how long to stay in Bangkok. Four days ... but one knows us - plans are there to be changed. We'll see how long it takes us this time to change them...

In Bangkok we immediately took a taxi to the Youth Hostel. We were lucky as they were almost fully booked - and as we don't plan we hardly ever book accomodation ahead. :)

Then we strolled around Bangkok for a bit. To the Kho San road we should go... every tourist goes there. OK, let's have a look. Shops, guesthouses, restaurants, pubs ... just everything! But also far too many tourists. One hardly can find a local. You can shop cheaply though ... still, let's move on.

We went looking for a nice restaurant. It got time to have dinner. Wait - here's a tourist information. Maybe we get a Thailand map here. We had hardly entered the office when we were already asked whether we would like to join the night city bus tour. It'll only take 1.5 hours and we wouldn't have to pay anything. Why not? Only in the bus we found out that the tour was only in Thai and information in English was available but the lights in the bus were not switched on. Well, anyway, we saw all the sights of Bangkok at night.

After that bus ride we went to the Ton Pho-Restaurant which is supposed to be quite famous among Thai. Well, for me not really as they almost served only seafood. In addition to that, I was attacked by millions of mosquitos.

After dinner we went off to find the standing buddha. But although we had a map we couldn't find it. We'll try it again tomorrow.

Monday, January 26, 2004

Malapascua Island - Cebu City - Manila

Today we had real cornflakes for breakfast. We cannot remember when we last had Cornflakes.

After breakfast we had to hurry up. We found out that the only public boat had already left at 8am and now we'll have to go with a special trip boat. Oh no, this is going to be expensive again! We packed our stuff and walked to the main pier. On our way someone asked us whether we'd like to go to Maya. Correct. There'll be a boat in 30 minutes. Great! A normal boat thus!

We left the island at 1pm. Weather today was moderate. All grey and just before Maya it started to rain. Only last night it had rained cats and dogs. I thought we were in dry season. In Maya there were two buses. Unfortunately, none of them drove to Cebu City. We again had to hire a van. Luckily, two Koreans wanted to go there as well so we could share the costs. And just before our departure a Chinese girl joined us as well. Great.

In Cebu City we were dropped at a shopping centre. There was not too much time left till our flight so we went straight to the airport by taxi. We spent some time in a restaurant and checked in at 7pm. At 8.40pm we left Cebu City. The flight took one hour. As our luggage was there quite quickly we could immediately head for our hostel.

Saturday, January 24, 2004

Dumaguete - Malapascua

Today we want to go to Malapascua Island which is in the north of Cebu Island. We wanted to go diving there and observe thresher sharks. Of course that's a reason for another day of travelling.

We took the ferry from Dumaguete to Bato on Cebu Island. We didn't want to take any public transport as we only had one day to get to Malapascua. Nothing mustn't go wrong. It was the best for us to hire a minibus. This is quite expensive though but we had no choice.

In Bato there were in fact a few minibuses who waited for travellers wanting to go to Cebu City. Cebu City is just about half of our way - if at all - and as we didn't want to look for another minibus in Cebu City we tried to find a driver here to drive us all the way up to Maya - about 10 hours. Ramona used all her trading skills and she managed in the end that we could get to Maya in one minibus for a great price. Part of the deal was that we take another 10 persons to Cebu. Therefore, we still had to wait for the next ferry. We were off at 1pm.

The driver drove like mad as if he wanted to set up a new record. Within a short time we were in Cebu where we had to stop in order to drop off the 10 other people. We lost all that time again when trying to get out of Cebu. All this traffic jam.

It got later and later. In the meantime it was dark and I don't believe the driver has ever been in the North of this island. He didn't know the direction and always had to stop to ask. Of course, we got lost as well.

It was about 10pm when we arrived in Maya. Of course, the last boat to Malapascua was gone already. But luckily there was a Chinese girl who had already phoned to Malapascua and was now waiting for a boat to come. We could join her and arrived on the other island about 1.5 hours later.

Fortunately, we had booked accomodation already. Therefore, we only had to book the dives for tomorrow morning.

We fell into bed around 1.30am - and again it was a short night.

Thursday, January 22, 2004

Dumaguete

Without having had breakfast we went to the dive shop to fix our dives for tomorrow. After that we needed some cash which again wasn't so easy as none of the machines accepted all our different cards. Then we had to book our flight from Cebu to Manila. Everything just took so long ...

We had a nice lunch and then strolled around the loud and stinky city before going to an Internet-Cafe. Here we got even served cocktails. Very nice.

Otherwise this place wasn't too attracting as there were loads of fat elderly men who only wanted the Thai girls for ...

Wednesday, January 21, 2004

Carmen - Dumaguete

We got up already at 5.50am. What was wrong? We wanted to see the sun rise over the chocolate hills. Unfortunately, it was a bit cloudy so we didn't see much of the sunrise.

Ramona went to sleep again. I went to the pool with Al where we wanted to meet with Laura and Jost again. But the two of them had decided to leave earlier than planned.

After a cold shower we woke up Ramona and had some breakfast together. Well, the fried eggs weren't that good, the toast was not toasted and instead of red tomatoes we got green ones. Even the chocolate from the chocolate hills didn't convince us. If it was only made with milk.

Unfortunately, it started to rain. Like mad! One doesn't have a chance to stay dry. Luckily we only had to check out at 4pm so we still had some time left. We went back to our room and read some more about Thailand.
But it just didn't stop raining. In contrary, it startet raining even more. Well, guess we can cancel our tour with the motor bike through the hills.

About 2pm we took a minibus to Tabligaran where we wanted to get on a ferry to Dumaguete. Here we checked in at Harold's Mansion. Quiet cheap and even with a TV - as if we needed it - and hot shower!

We spent the evening in an Internet cafe or rather we looked for one where we could connect our cameras and hard drives. Not very exciting, I know. But when we were asked to leave the cafe at 10.40pm we were quiete surprised. But they explained it to us: Here they are 20 minutes ahead. Nobody knows why - it's just like that.

Sunday, January 18, 2004

Pagsanjan - Bulan

As we didn't want to be on the river with all the tourists we were already on our way at 7.30am. We got life jackets and off we were. Hae? What is this? This is a canoe? We thought we were going to raft? Did we book a canoe tour? The river is well known by its rafts. Well ... let's just see. The only way to the waterfall is the one over the river.

Al sat behind, Ramona in front of me. Ramona and I had been quite clever and put our bikinis on. We will drive underneath a waterfall and then we want to swim. We took the piss out of Al who had forgotten to put on his swimming clothes. :) We had two strong men in our boat who rowed for us. They had to be strong as we first went against the stream. It was great to watch how quickly they rowed and got out of the boat in order to push us away from the rocks. They were even barefeet. We sometimes had to stop for them to get their breath under control again. All in all it took us about 45 minutes. We didn't see any wild animals. Maybe we should have gone only at 8am.

At the end of the river we had to get of the boat and walk a bit further. Then we got to a float with which we went to the waterfall. Gee, how much water came down that 10m high mountain. The closer we got to the waterfall the more water shot down. Obvious that we wouldn't get out of here dry. But we do wear our bikinis. Well, but Ramona and I were so stupid not to take off our shorts and T-Shirts. Now it was Al who couldn't stop laughing. Underneath the waterfall the water was so strong that one could hardly breathe. We even went a bit further behind the waterfall where we could swim. It was great fun! And now at the latest we were all awake.

Back in the hotel we had a good breakfast and we dried our clothes in the sun. And again we continued travelling. Our next big step was the Chocolate Hills on Bohol Island. A very long journey was in front of us. Of course, we wanted to do that overland. We want to see the country. And everybody can just fly.

We therefore took a tricycle to the bus station and continued our journey to Lucena. There we took a bus down to Bulan.

We got to Bulan at 1am. 2 hours earlier than expected. What shall we do now? We sat at the bus station which was like a small waiting place together with other travellers. The TV was switched on and they showed some stupid American films. As I couldn't sleep in the bus I now tried to sleep on the floor.

Friday, January 16, 2004

Banaue - Manila

Today we again only wanted to travel and enjoy the view from a bus. Our goal was to get to Baler - here we want to see the filipino crocodiles.

At the bus station in Banaue we again met Elvis who travelled with us to Solano. In Solano we changed bus and took one who drove down all the way to Manila. But we wanted to get off at Cabanatuan. In case we get there early enough we'll take another bus to Baler. Very easy and it seemed to be a relaxing day.

In the bus to Cabanatuan I (Nicole) grabbed the Lonely Planet to read a bit more about the Baler area and the crocodiles. But I was shocked. I had misread it. It cannot be true. We drove in the completely wrong direction. There are no crocodiles in Baler. No, that's not true. We have to go north not south. Am I not able to read a travel guide? Why didn't I take the book last night as I wanted to do? I was really annoyed. I mean, we can't just take a bus back.

Al, Ramona and I had to quickly decide what to do. We decided to drive to Manila and take another bus tomorrow to Pagsanjan to go rafting.

We only arrived in Manila in the late evening. We had something to eat and took a taxi to the Youth Hostel. Another 45 minutes ride. But at least the hostel is close to the bus station where we have to go tomorrow.
Around midnight we fell into bed.

Wednesday, January 14, 2004

Banaue - Cambulo

We already got up at 8am. We had to buy some food for the next two days. And Elvis wanted to come and pick us up at 8.30am.

We could leave our big backpacks in the Banaue View Inn. Only with our small daypack we started that trek. Consciously we left our rain cloths back at the hostel - although it was raining cats and dogs last night. Why? I (Nicole) can't tell you anymore. But when we left the hostel, it didn't rain. :)

With two tricycles we drove to the Banaue viewpoint about 10 minutes northeast from Banaue. From here one has a fantastic view of the surrounding rice terraces.

Then we were driven a bit further and we could start hiking. But we hadn't even really left the tricycles when it started to rain. Well, it's just a little bit of rain. This doesn't matter. It's still quite warm and a little bit of cooling down is nice as well, isn't it? First of all we hiked through forest and Elvis told us a bit about the filipino culture.

He also explained to us why so many filipino people have such red lips and why there are all these marks on the road so that one thinks one has spread around some colour. Filipinos eat the betel nut with a betel leaf and some lime powder and chew it for hours. They call it the filipino chewing gum, but in fact this is also chewed in India, Vietnam, Indonesia, Sri Lanka ... If you chew it long enough, everything colours red and one only spits the red spittle (therefore all these red marks on the road). In addition to that the body gets very hot and one should feel very good.
I (Nicole) immediately agreed with Elvis that I'll try it together with him.

The landscape we walked through changed from forest to rice terraces. The rain of course didn't stop either. In contrary, it started to rain even more and it was obvious that we didn't have to walk for long to get really wet. But not only this. The non-existing path got even more slippery and our hiking boots - not the best ones anyway - didn't give us any grip. We had huge problems to follow Elvis without stepping into the rice terraces which were filled up kneehigh with mud or even fall into them. Or slide down on the other side where there was a deep abyss. Elvis just laughed about us - of course, he at least had his rain coat on.

After an hour long hike through rain and rice terraces we arrived in Cambulo. Elvis got the key for our accomodation and we were quite surprised to see a fireplace. It was obvious what had to happen. Quickly we took of our wet clothes and stood in front of Elvis just in underwear. He was already lighting the fire. We queued in front of the fireplace as it wasn't really warm in this wet underwear.

It goes without saying that Elvis hadn't forgotten about the Betel nut and me wanting to try it. He prepared it for me but somehow I wasn't so keen anymore. I waited for him to join. Then he began to chew and I still had the nut in my hand. Al and Ramona told me I couldn't say no anymore. Well ... from my hand in my mouth. Gee, this nut is hard. One can hardly chew it. And uaaah, how disgusting! Very bitter! The look in my face must have been really funny as Al and Ramona just laughed at me. And as I didn't know how to correctly chew the nut I soon had all these grains in my whole mouth. It really was disgusting. I even had problems to spit. The red spittle only ran down my chin and everybody had fun - but me. The heat I was supposed to feel in my body wasn't there. But maybe I just didn't chew long enough. I was very happy when I could finally spit out the nut which wasn't a nut any longer. But even the aftertaste was so bad.
Al and Ramona tried the nut as well - now they knew how to do it and even chewed longer - which was their only goal anyway. Phh! :)
I had tried the betel nut now and it was clear that I didn't need to try it again.

The whole evening we spend drying our clothes. Elvis had cooked for us - soup and rice with tuna. When it came to the cosy part of the evening he took a guitar and sang filipino songs for us. Very nice!

On our way to Cambulo Elvis had also talked about the rice wine. Unfortunately, there was no rice wine in Cambulo. But the owner of the house had something else for us. In the dark with his torch he ran through the rice terraces just to get a bottle of Gin for us. We opened the bottle and were surprised by the odour. 80% - Schnaps. Never is this Gin! But mixed with the right stuff it still was quite good.

Monday, January 12, 2004

Sagada

Today we had a lie-in. We only wanted to leaeve Sagada for Banaue later in the morning. After another delicious breakfast at Yoghurt House we found out that there's only one more bus, but already in half an hour. Well, it's good that we're so flexible - we just stay another night in Sagada.

We did a long walk in the burning sun and spent the whole afternoon online. The three of us had to download and prepare our pictures. And although Sagada is only a small village in the middle of nowhere it has fantastic internet connections and all facilities we needed.

Saturday, January 10, 2004

Baguio - Sagada

As Baguio for us was only a city to travel through we headed off just after breakfast. Sagada was our aim. Another day just of travelling.

The journey to Bontoc took already seven hours and we had to take another bus to get to Sagada. The Halsema Highway leads through a magnificent mountain scenery but 'highway' is certainly a misnomer. Construction crews seem to be in a perpetual battle with nature and altitude; the highway is 2,255m at its highest).

Sagada is a little village at 1,477m. Here one really feels like at home. No noise, no pollution and you can walk down the middle of the road and only occasionally be disturbed by a passing vehicle.

We checked in at Sagada Guesthouse and were off again for dinner. The 'Log Cabin' restaurant is recommended, not only because of its good food but also because here one can eat in front of a fireplace. But, here you have to place your order a few hours in advance. We then walked to another restaurant. I've forgotten its name - probably because the food wasn't that nice.

Thursday, January 08, 2004

Talisay

We had breakfast at Gloria's at 9am and couldn't resist her offer to take her boat to drive to the other side where the Taal vulcano is. The ride was about half an hour and we got to the other side wet like a poodle.

We could have hired a horse here but we decided to walk. What a good decision. Hundreds of horses with tourists passed us and they weren't well treated at all. Again and again they were beaten. And there were sometimes even two if not three persons on the back of one horse. In addition to that, the horses didn't look as if they got enought to eat. Poor things!

We walked to the summit and we sometimes saw some steam coming out of the soil. Unfortunately though we could really only walk to the summit and had to talk the same way back. But over there, there's another hill. Let's walk there and climb that one. We didn't manage though. It was further than we thought it was and the sun was just too hot.
Therefore, we had a break at a nice place and had some fun at the beach. Ramona and Al had a spectacular fight with bamboo sticks.

At 3pm we were picked up again and drove back to Gloria. We then explored Talisay, a small village, before planning our next travels.

For dinner we got sweet-sour fish served. It wasn't too bad - even for me(Nicole).

Tuesday, January 06, 2004

Hong Kong

At 7.15am I (Nicole) met up with Al and Nicole NL in order to go to the Hong Kong Park. We wanted to join a Tai Chi lesson at 8am - for free. Ramona preferred to sleep. She was probably still tired from yesterday's Macau trip.

Already at 7.50am we were at the right place. There was an elderly man with a woman performing Tai Chi. Whether they are our teachers? A few more travellers joined us and at 8am we found out that the elderly couple wasn't our teacher. Well, maybe there's someone in the Tai Chi corner. In fact, yes, there was a whole group. But they didn't look like beginners. We talked to a woman from the group and she was happy to see that we were interested in Tai Chi. We were more than welcome to join them. First the 24 exercice, later the 48 one. If you watch people doing Tai Chi, it always looks easy, round and smoothly; but it isn't at all. We all had massive problems to coordinate our arms and legs. Still we had lots of fun!

After this sports lesson we had deserved a good breakfast. As it wasn't too far, we headed for Al's Diner. But they only open at 12pm. Well, there's another place. Breakfast from 9.30am. This is only in 10 minutes so we decided to wait. Only to learn then that they serve breakfast from 10.30am onwards. Great - apparently we hadn't deserved a nice breakfast.
We drove back, picked up Ramona and bought some bread and cheese in a supermarket to have breakfast in the Victoria Park.

Nicole then went off to organise some more things for her travels. Al, Ramona and I took some clothes to the laundry and booked our flights to Manila and Bangkok. Further off to the post office where again we spent more than an hour just to send a parcel.

Quickly to the Internet and at 7pm we met Nicole NL again in order to have a good-bye dinner at Times Square. Food was great and we even had a bottle of red wine. Simply a great evening!

Sunday, January 04, 2004

Hong Kong

I (Nicole) spent the morning finishing my book 'My way leads to Tibet' which I wanted to send home together with Ramona's Bibel. Nicole NL and Ramona were still asleep and Al wanted to do something on his own today.

In the afternoon I met up with Nicole NL and Ramona in the swimming pool. Really great - only beginning of January and we're already at a pool. Outside! It was fantastic. For people here thought it seems to be still a bit cold as most of them were inside. Even better for us! What was interesting to see as well was all these men enjoying the sun. Not even one woman - only men whose teint was brown anyway were here. We don't know this like that. But if it makes you even more handsome?!

In the evening we had a nice dinner and finished a great lazy day. :)

Friday, January 02, 2004

Hong Kong

We all four met at 10am to do the Victoria Peak as well as a boat trip.

As it was again a lovely day and we finally wanted to see something of Hong Kong we walked to Victoria Peak. To the 'summit' we thought we take the tram. A quite small train which rides very steep uphill. On top of the peak we were amongst a lot of tourists. We weren't used to that anymore after China and Tibet.

Actually, Hongkong was quite a change again. Whereas in China we were addressed to with each 'hello', here in Hong Kong we had to get used to the fact that almost everybody speaks English and that if we hear a 'hello' it rather means someone is talking on his/her mobile than to us.

We had some sandwiches and ice-cream for lunch and then decided to walk back. Of course, we walk. It's downhill. :) In fact, we wanted to take the escalators back into the centre but unfortunately at this time they only ran in the other direction that we really had to walk all the way back.

In the harbour we decided that it is far too foggy for a boat trip. Thus, we were a bit more relaxed and sat down in a cafe in order to enjoy life.

In the evening, Al, Nicole NL and Ramona went to the movies to see Lord of the Rings 3. Nothing for me though as I'm still reading the book. But I had planned to read the last 100 pages tonight. And just in time with the end of the film I finished the book. Finally!