The wind was blowing strongly and freezing cold, we wonder what's it going to be like on the top. We got to the first crotch where we should keep right. And now it really started. Serpentines ever so steep uphill. Because of all the gravel and boulder we constantly slipped . Then there was a rocky part where the way could hardly be seen, if there hadn't been ropes and chains to mark it.
I (Ramona) was already exausted after the first kilometer. I felt like not having enough air to breathe. My legs were powerless. If this continues like that, I will never make it to the top. I had to stop every few minutes. My heart was beating like mad. All this made me angry. Nicole was always far ahead and had to wait all the time. No matter how much I tried. I was always falling behind.
We reached the 6th station (2,350m) after 35 minutes. 10minutes faster as designated. But that encouraged me only little. We had a little pause and ate some bisquits. Then we set off again. Only 60 minutes to the 7th station. Oh no, that long?! It seemed to take for ever. Every few hundred meters I had to stop, otherwise I would have had a heartattack. I was close to giving up. Why was I feeling so weak? I used to make quite a lot of sports and was relatively fit. Nicole cajoled to me and tried to cheer me up. Step after step, together we will make it.
She let me go ahead. We reached the 7th station (2,700m). While approaching the stations, there were always lots of very steep stone stairs, knee high. It was nearly killing me. How long until the 8th station? 100min. Oh dear!
My thighs started to hurt. I had to pull me uphill on the chains. On the gravel I only made very small steps. And then, suddenly everything changed. I was able to breathe again and my legs became stronger in spite of the pain. The higher we went, the easier I could climb. Very strange. Normally it should be the other way round. After all we were just before the 3,000m line. I was so glad now. Maybe we will still make it for the sun rise. But where was Nicole? Hadn't she been behind me just now? She had fallen behind several meters now. Her torch was fading and I could hardly see her. What happened?
I let Ramona go ahead. Maybe it works better then. And if we don't make it till sunrise, we won't make it. That's not a problem at all. But Ramona seemed to feel better from minute to minute. Fantastic, then we'll make it in time. But just don't halloo till you are out of the woods. As now it was me who got huge problems. I noticed that air got thinner and that I couldn't get as much oxygene as I needed.
OK, I know that from Venezuela. And still now everything was different. Ramona didn't have to go three steps and she was already five steps ahead. I just couldn't follow her anymore. Thereby her steps weren't really big ones. But for me they were just too big. Now she had to always wait for me. I had to stop every five meters in order to control my breath again. I was pissed, couldn't do as I wanted to. In addition to that, my rucksack didn't fit anymore. The whole weight beared against my shoulders and I couldn't strap my hip belt any tighter neither. My knees and calf sore with every step. No wonder, those were high as my knees. And we only had made half of the distance. 8. Station, 3,020m. I would have loved to turn round on my heel's. But no! Do not think like this! We didn't spend hours of waiting in the iciness at the ladies' room for nothing. And I didn't climb up to here for nothing either. Continue, I have to continue! But also the biscuits couldn't cheer me up anymore. My hands are so cold, my feet almost fall off. Don't moan all the time! Think of the sunrise. It didn't help all the time. But what would Ramona say if I give up now? I cannot do that, she has ridden out her worst phase as well. If only there weren't those damn high steps. Thanks to God there's a chain. I can pull myself up with that. My legs though, they don't want the way I want to. My strength just left me. And also the wind, it almost blows me off. I never managed it to the protecting wall, I always had to stop a bit beforehand because I didn't get enough oxygene. My heart was in my mouth. My lips cracked, everything just adds up. Then finally, the original 8. station at 3,360m. It was 2.30am. We were behind the time. And only because of me. We had lost the time we made up for at the beginning. Because of me. We can forget about the sunrise. Gosh, just pull yourself together! It is not that far anymore. My sister Silke once described me as an ambitious person, now I have to prove that it is true. Do I really have to prove that? Yes, blimey! You have already climbed a much higher mountain, so you'll make it to the top of that small "hill". But even the energy drink didn't help me. Keep at it! It wouldn't improve though. Time was running so quickly but I didn't cover a distance at all. I won't give up though! Ramona seems to take the steps with ease. Why couldn't I just do that? Pain got unbearable, I just couldn't breathe anymore. And still: I'd like to get to the summit! But one didn't seem to mean well with me as it got even steeper. I had expected it but every time I had to moan when there was another curve. In addition to that my torch gave up the ghost. And I had only just changed batteries. I got even more pissed. Nothing seemed to work. Ramona gave me her torch - she still had her headlight - and called my attention to dawn. I hadn't realized yet. It was even more depressing for me as this meant that we wouldn't make it to the summit for the sunrise. I was frustrated. We kept on going though. What was that? Again: steps high as my knees as far as my eyes could see. Why only? The chain didn't help anymore, I had to pull together all my strengh in order to take one single step. But this has to be the finish! Up there, that must be the summit. I asked Ramona not to wait for me anymore. Already after a couple of minutes I had lost sight of her. I was on my own. Alone with myself and my burned out body. But I made it. Somehow. I was so exhausted and devitalised. Now, I could give my tears full scope. I made it, extravagated and defeated Mt. Fuji!
Final spurt, only 80 minutes and we are there. The wind got stronger. We could hardly walk against it without been blowing away. One time, Nicole stopped right in the middle of such a blast. Whereas the protecting wall was only 3m away. I called her but she didn't react. I called her louder, but she still didn't move. She was just fighting to keep her balance. Can she not here me?? I screamed as loud as I could, nothing. When the wind finally dropped a little, she came over. The wind had been so loud that she really couldn't hear me.
4.30am, the sun started to come up slowly. We arrived at the first gate and could see the second one already. Far above us we could see many huts. That must be the summit. The stone stairs started again. The legs hurt terribly. But we made it! We reached the top! 3,776m!!! And still before the sun could be seen. It was 5am. We had needed 7 hours for the climb. The sun rise was terrific. Just like a dream. All the pain during the ascent was quickly forgotten.
Up here the wind was even worse. We had to be very careful not to be blown away. It was freezing cold. We would have loved to have had some spare cloths, as ours were wet from sweating.
We tried to walk round the crater but the wind made it impossible. It's a pity but it wasn't worth the risk. So we started our descent. 4 hours downhill lay before us. At the crater we met Nihei, a young Japanese guy. He joined us on our way down. Nihei told us a lot about Japan and the people who live there. That was good, as he abstracted us, especially me, from the pain. After 1 hour of walking downhill, or rather slithering, stumble and slipping, my knees and my back were killing me.
At 10.45am we reached the 5th Station. We were so exhausted. One seemed to be able to recognise that, many people asked us whether we came from the summit. Yes, we said proudly, from the summit. And the people were happy for us. It was such a great feeling! We had to wait until 12pm before the first bus to town left. We hardly sat down and were already fast asleep. The taxi from the Busstation to the campsite we had hard-earned. Sleep, we only want to sleep.
At 5pm we crawled out off our tent again. We were hungry and we wanted to go the internet cafe. We didn't really know the way, so we asked a woman on the street. She went to the house behind us and spoke to somebody (who turned out to be her son) and asked us to wait. Her son came and said he'll be right there and not even 2 minutes later he put on his shoes and said that he would bring us there by car. Wow! We did not believe our ears. He drove us directly in front of the door. Unbelievable! On foot we would have never found it, it had been much further than we thought.
Tuesday, September 30, 2003
Monday, September 29, 2003
Kawaguchiko
At 10.10am we took a bus to Gotenba. Only in order to take another bus from there to Togendai. This one was supposed to leave at 12.07pm and we had some time left. It was quite hot and I (Nicole) still wore too much with a short and T-Shirt. I needed some water. Got it and filled it in my drinking bag. An elderly Japanese couple got really interested in that and the man wanted to know where we are from. When we said 'Germany' he got very excited. He was even more interested and asked questions more and more. In the meantime his wife gave us two Japanese mandarines. Uah, these are green-yellow. Will we like these at all? Oh yes, we did. The taste is much more intense then of the ones we know at home. When the bus arrived, we queued as all the other Japanese as well. But the nice man informed us quite excited that this was not our bus. Oh really? OK, then we'll wait a bit more. Ten minutes later we got on the right bus. The nice man got off at some point and wished us 'happiness'. He even shaked my hand. Wow, I was surprised as so far I haven't seen any body contact in Japan at all. At least not in the public. Even couples one never sees hand in hand.
In Togendai we immediately took the cable car to Owakudani. This as well was included in our Hakone Pass. When we arrived at the top one could already see a lot of smoke coming out of the mountain. And the closer we got to the mountain, the more it stank. Like rotten eggs. The water, coming out of the hill, is partly boiling hot. As everybody who gets there we had to try sulphur eggs. They only had them in a pack of six. Boiled in sulphur. The paring was totally black. Whether the egg tastes like sulphur? With the eggs in our hands we headed for the egg-table. Here, eggs are peeled and the paring remains on the table. We both had each two eggs. However, they didn't taste like sulphur. Actually, just like normal eggs. What shall we do now with the two left overs? Oh, there are two elderly women about to buy eggs. We could give them the eggs. The Japanese women couldn't believe it. They thanked several times. But why? Japanese people are all so nice and helpful. Or just towards tourists?
Just after 3pm we took the cable car and train to Tonosawa. Here are the Hot Springs, in which we wanted to take a bath. From the tation which is above the village in a forest we went down to the village. The forest almost reminds of a kind of jungle as it was abundantly covered with vegetation. One couldn't hear anything but crickets and birds. And again and again we could see these immense three-dimensional spider nets. The spider itself was only half as spectacular.
In the village we asked for the way to the Hot Springs. It goes without saying that again we were wrong. Will we ever manage to find something at first go? Thus, upstairs again. And then there's supposed to be another street. Well, if we only had opened our eyes, we would have probably seen not only the other street but also the sign. The Hot Springs are close to the Begona Garden. Luckily there is a map. We cannot miss them. The street up and right after the curve. There the springs must be. Negative. We quickly asked and found out that the hot springs are just next to the garden. Well, in that case the map is wrong. Although ... we had our problems with Japanese maps. When we had finally reached the entrance we only realised that it was already 4.30pm. There was no time left.
We had to think of our way back. At the latest at 7pm we have to be in Gotenba, as the last bus from there to Kawaguchiko leaves at 7.05pm. There's already the shuttle bus. Departure 4.45pm. And we didn't even have to pay for it. We got off at the Yomoto Station and wanted to take the bus to Gotenba. As there was only one bus left, we had no choice. But instead of taking us to Gotenba, we had to get off at another bus station. Oh no. It gradually gets cooler and darker. Where to go now? Which bus and in which direction? A taxi driver explained it to us: To Miyanoshita, then change to Gotenba. Said, done. We got off in Miyanoshita and walked to the bus station across the street. Of course, again everything only in Japanese. I addressed to the only Japanese near and far and even he seemed to have problems to find the information. Can't he read or is he in the end not even Japanese? Minutes seemed to pass like hours. But then. The bus will arrive in 10 minutes. Thank you very much. But only in 10 minutes? Whether we will make it in time to Gotenba? I can already see ourselves staying the night outside, without tent or sleeping-bag. We took the bus ten minutes later and told the bus driver where we wanted to go. Gotenba? No, I don't drive that far. Again we had to change. Is that still alright or is just everyone trying to tease us? It was again one of these moments when I wished to speak Japanese. At the next bus station one told us that there is no bus going to Gotenba anymore. Not at that time. What does it mean? At that time? It's only 6.30pm. After all, just tease ... ! But there's an information desk. Here, we have been told that the bus arrives at 6.40pm and will reach Gotenba at 7.05pm. The bus to Kawaguchiko only leaves at 7.15pm. Thanks to God. This was right and we were back in Kawaguchiko at 8.15pm.
In Togendai we immediately took the cable car to Owakudani. This as well was included in our Hakone Pass. When we arrived at the top one could already see a lot of smoke coming out of the mountain. And the closer we got to the mountain, the more it stank. Like rotten eggs. The water, coming out of the hill, is partly boiling hot. As everybody who gets there we had to try sulphur eggs. They only had them in a pack of six. Boiled in sulphur. The paring was totally black. Whether the egg tastes like sulphur? With the eggs in our hands we headed for the egg-table. Here, eggs are peeled and the paring remains on the table. We both had each two eggs. However, they didn't taste like sulphur. Actually, just like normal eggs. What shall we do now with the two left overs? Oh, there are two elderly women about to buy eggs. We could give them the eggs. The Japanese women couldn't believe it. They thanked several times. But why? Japanese people are all so nice and helpful. Or just towards tourists?
Just after 3pm we took the cable car and train to Tonosawa. Here are the Hot Springs, in which we wanted to take a bath. From the tation which is above the village in a forest we went down to the village. The forest almost reminds of a kind of jungle as it was abundantly covered with vegetation. One couldn't hear anything but crickets and birds. And again and again we could see these immense three-dimensional spider nets. The spider itself was only half as spectacular.
In the village we asked for the way to the Hot Springs. It goes without saying that again we were wrong. Will we ever manage to find something at first go? Thus, upstairs again. And then there's supposed to be another street. Well, if we only had opened our eyes, we would have probably seen not only the other street but also the sign. The Hot Springs are close to the Begona Garden. Luckily there is a map. We cannot miss them. The street up and right after the curve. There the springs must be. Negative. We quickly asked and found out that the hot springs are just next to the garden. Well, in that case the map is wrong. Although ... we had our problems with Japanese maps. When we had finally reached the entrance we only realised that it was already 4.30pm. There was no time left.
We had to think of our way back. At the latest at 7pm we have to be in Gotenba, as the last bus from there to Kawaguchiko leaves at 7.05pm. There's already the shuttle bus. Departure 4.45pm. And we didn't even have to pay for it. We got off at the Yomoto Station and wanted to take the bus to Gotenba. As there was only one bus left, we had no choice. But instead of taking us to Gotenba, we had to get off at another bus station. Oh no. It gradually gets cooler and darker. Where to go now? Which bus and in which direction? A taxi driver explained it to us: To Miyanoshita, then change to Gotenba. Said, done. We got off in Miyanoshita and walked to the bus station across the street. Of course, again everything only in Japanese. I addressed to the only Japanese near and far and even he seemed to have problems to find the information. Can't he read or is he in the end not even Japanese? Minutes seemed to pass like hours. But then. The bus will arrive in 10 minutes. Thank you very much. But only in 10 minutes? Whether we will make it in time to Gotenba? I can already see ourselves staying the night outside, without tent or sleeping-bag. We took the bus ten minutes later and told the bus driver where we wanted to go. Gotenba? No, I don't drive that far. Again we had to change. Is that still alright or is just everyone trying to tease us? It was again one of these moments when I wished to speak Japanese. At the next bus station one told us that there is no bus going to Gotenba anymore. Not at that time. What does it mean? At that time? It's only 6.30pm. After all, just tease ... ! But there's an information desk. Here, we have been told that the bus arrives at 6.40pm and will reach Gotenba at 7.05pm. The bus to Kawaguchiko only leaves at 7.15pm. Thanks to God. This was right and we were back in Kawaguchiko at 8.15pm.
Sunday, September 28, 2003
Kawaguchiko
I wanted to make breakfast for Nicole. So I took the cooker and the food. The pot was badly bent. Maybe the backpack was a bit too stuffed. The cooker seemed to have suffered a little as well. The feet were very hard to move. Suddenly, I held one of the feet in my hand, broken off. Gee, I hardly put my strength at it. Nicole was up, too by now and came over. I tried to light the cooker anyway and turned on the petrol. It came spreading out like a fountain right into my face. Great, I only just had a shower! I was so pissed off. Anyway, no eggs and tea today. Just bread.
We went by bus to see the caves half an hour away from Kawaguchiko. We wanted to see the ice cave. It was said that even in summer they were icicles hanging from the ceiling. Stone stairs led down through a small crevice into the cave, about 20m down. The temperature dropped enormously. It got freezing cold. But the big icicles we couldn’t see anywhere. Only little melted stumps.
Disappointed we went to the next cave. It was about 2.6 km away down to the lake. We walked there as it was downhill anyway. It was the bat cave. To make sure there are really some bats living in the cave we asked at the counter. Of course, there are. 100 bats living down there. Well, then, we put on a helmet and then into the cave. At some point it was so shallow only about 50 cm and we could only get through waddling like ducks. Bats, however, we did not see. But it was an interesting cave anyway.
The 2.6 km back to the bus stop we didn’t really want to walk. As I saw a Japanese couple walk to their car I jumped up and went over to them. I asked whether they could give us a lift to the bus stop. As usual, they didn’t speak any English. But they understood after a while and agreed to take us. They were so kind.
We went back to Kawaguchiko. It was still early in the afternoon so we decided to go up to the Kawaguchiko mountain by ropeway, 1079 m. We had a brilliant view from up there. Only Mt. Fuji was still hiding. Can one ever see all of it? Up here there were bunnies and wash bears all around and one could take pictures with them. There even bunny and wash bear toilets. It looked so funny. Have a look at the pictures.
At 7pm it was dark already and we went back to the camp site.
We went by bus to see the caves half an hour away from Kawaguchiko. We wanted to see the ice cave. It was said that even in summer they were icicles hanging from the ceiling. Stone stairs led down through a small crevice into the cave, about 20m down. The temperature dropped enormously. It got freezing cold. But the big icicles we couldn’t see anywhere. Only little melted stumps.
Disappointed we went to the next cave. It was about 2.6 km away down to the lake. We walked there as it was downhill anyway. It was the bat cave. To make sure there are really some bats living in the cave we asked at the counter. Of course, there are. 100 bats living down there. Well, then, we put on a helmet and then into the cave. At some point it was so shallow only about 50 cm and we could only get through waddling like ducks. Bats, however, we did not see. But it was an interesting cave anyway.
The 2.6 km back to the bus stop we didn’t really want to walk. As I saw a Japanese couple walk to their car I jumped up and went over to them. I asked whether they could give us a lift to the bus stop. As usual, they didn’t speak any English. But they understood after a while and agreed to take us. They were so kind.
We went back to Kawaguchiko. It was still early in the afternoon so we decided to go up to the Kawaguchiko mountain by ropeway, 1079 m. We had a brilliant view from up there. Only Mt. Fuji was still hiding. Can one ever see all of it? Up here there were bunnies and wash bears all around and one could take pictures with them. There even bunny and wash bear toilets. It looked so funny. Have a look at the pictures.
At 7pm it was dark already and we went back to the camp site.
Saturday, September 27, 2003
Tokyo - Kawaguchiko
At 11.40am our bus was leaving for Kawaguchiko. At least that’s what we thought. On the subway I (Ramona) was bored and had a look at our bus ticket. Holy sh.. Departure 11.10am. It was already 10.38am and we still had two stops to go. And then to find where the bus is leaving from. Great. How did we come up with 11.40am in the first place? At 10.58am we reached the city bus terminal. But that was of course not the one for us. Twice we got sent further down the road before we finally found our bus. We hadn’t even sat down as the doors closed already and we started moving.
Two hours later we arrived in Kawaguchiko. One could see Mt. Fuji. Unfortunately, not the “top” (not really a top as it’s a volcano). The tourist office was right at the station. They even had a camp site in Kawaguchiko. Great, let’s go. The camp was next to a lake in a little forest. Yen 1,300 pppn (per person per night). Pretty expensive. For the shower one also had to pay. Yen 100 for 90 seconds water. Gee, Japan is expensive.
At 2.30pm our new home was set up. Enough time was left to go to the Highland Park. Here they have the tallest roller coaster in the world. The entrance fee was shocking though. Yen 4,100, or Yen 1,000 plus paying every ride separate. We chose the first one. To get the ticket we had to pay first and got a coupon. With that we had to go to a photo machine. A picture was taken and the ticket with photo came out. Well, no-one can steal it now.
First thing of course we went to the largest roller coaster in the world. The park was quite empty so it shouldn’t take long till it’s our turn and we could maybe go twice. Sure. We had to wait one hour. Just as good we took our books. Then, it was our turn. Up the hill. 79m. What a lovely view across the whole valley. Only Fuji was still covered in clouds. Then we were shooting downhill. 90 degrees angle and 130 km/h. Fantastic. The stomach was full of butterflies. The whole ride took 3.35 minutes.
Now we wanted to ride the highspeed roller coaster. But here they were queuing for 2.5 hours. What a shame! That must have been a great ride. We went to the Great Zamboo instead. The biggest watershoot in the world. Everybody was buying rain coats. Nah! We don’t need that, do we? We couldn’t see anybody else without though. OK then, we’ll buy one, too. The ride was short and rough. Luckily, we did buy the coats. Otherwise we would have been soaked now.
We went on some other rides and then it was already time to go home.
Two hours later we arrived in Kawaguchiko. One could see Mt. Fuji. Unfortunately, not the “top” (not really a top as it’s a volcano). The tourist office was right at the station. They even had a camp site in Kawaguchiko. Great, let’s go. The camp was next to a lake in a little forest. Yen 1,300 pppn (per person per night). Pretty expensive. For the shower one also had to pay. Yen 100 for 90 seconds water. Gee, Japan is expensive.
At 2.30pm our new home was set up. Enough time was left to go to the Highland Park. Here they have the tallest roller coaster in the world. The entrance fee was shocking though. Yen 4,100, or Yen 1,000 plus paying every ride separate. We chose the first one. To get the ticket we had to pay first and got a coupon. With that we had to go to a photo machine. A picture was taken and the ticket with photo came out. Well, no-one can steal it now.
First thing of course we went to the largest roller coaster in the world. The park was quite empty so it shouldn’t take long till it’s our turn and we could maybe go twice. Sure. We had to wait one hour. Just as good we took our books. Then, it was our turn. Up the hill. 79m. What a lovely view across the whole valley. Only Fuji was still covered in clouds. Then we were shooting downhill. 90 degrees angle and 130 km/h. Fantastic. The stomach was full of butterflies. The whole ride took 3.35 minutes.
Now we wanted to ride the highspeed roller coaster. But here they were queuing for 2.5 hours. What a shame! That must have been a great ride. We went to the Great Zamboo instead. The biggest watershoot in the world. Everybody was buying rain coats. Nah! We don’t need that, do we? We couldn’t see anybody else without though. OK then, we’ll buy one, too. The ride was short and rough. Luckily, we did buy the coats. Otherwise we would have been soaked now.
We went on some other rides and then it was already time to go home.
Friday, September 26, 2003
Tokyo
The telephone rang. Was that supposed to be a joke? It was only 10am and we were staying until tomorrow. Just don’t move, Nicole will surely pick it up. She did not. OK, I’ll get it. But then it stopped. Great, and now? Should I call back? Surely they would ring again if it was important. But if they leave and lock the door and we will be trapped until 5pm? I better call back. “You wake up?” “Yes.” “It’s cleaning time.” “Yes, but we are staying until tomorrow.” “It’s cleaning time.” “Yes, but we are not leaving yet.” “It’s cleaning time.” Great. I know that now. “We are staying though. No need to clean.” “But it’s cleaning time.” I gave up. “We’ll be right down.” We found out that here we also had to leave the room between 10am and 5pm. Is it impossible to have a lay in in Japan?
We wanted to go to the big electronical stores one subway station further, in Akihabara. As far as one could look, everywhere PCs, music players, mobiles … up to seven floors per shop. Used and new. A paradise for those who had enough money. We were looking for a hard drive so we can download our pictures from our digital cameras and wouldn’t have to go to the photo shop all the time. We went to so many shops but found nothing.
Later, we went to Shinjuku to check at the travel office how and when we could best go to Mt. Fuji. They gave us many brochures to look at and after having studied them all we agreed on taking the Hakone 3 day free ticket for Yen 7,200. We could use buses and trains throughout the whole Fuji area within three days. Our base camp we wanted to put up in Kawaguchiko, near the lake. But that we had to sort out there. Tomorrow at 10.40am the bus is leaving. Perfect.
Now we wanted to go to the movies and got on the bus. We showed our tickets but it wasn’t valid here. What? How come it was valid yesterday? Nicole started to discuss. But the driver did not understand a thing. An old lady tipped me on my shoulder and wanted to give me Yen 200 so Nicole could pay. How sweet of her. But we couldn’t and did not want to accept it. We got off the bus and were already on our way to the subway as we thought maybe we should try again with the next bus. It really worked.
Unfortunately, the film had started when we got to the cinema. The next show was at 8pm. That was too late for us as we had to be back at the hostel at 11pm. They told us that there was also a cinema near our hostel and the movie would start at 8.30pm. But by the time we crossed the whole time and got there it was also too late. Maybe it shouldn’t be.
So instead of the movies we went to the Internet-Café. Heidi, a friend of ours in Germany, sent us an email that there had been a terrible earthquake in North Japan. 7.5 on the Richter scale. One could even feel it in Tokyo. No, not really. We did not feel a thing and were quite surprised to hear about it.
We wanted to go to the big electronical stores one subway station further, in Akihabara. As far as one could look, everywhere PCs, music players, mobiles … up to seven floors per shop. Used and new. A paradise for those who had enough money. We were looking for a hard drive so we can download our pictures from our digital cameras and wouldn’t have to go to the photo shop all the time. We went to so many shops but found nothing.
Later, we went to Shinjuku to check at the travel office how and when we could best go to Mt. Fuji. They gave us many brochures to look at and after having studied them all we agreed on taking the Hakone 3 day free ticket for Yen 7,200. We could use buses and trains throughout the whole Fuji area within three days. Our base camp we wanted to put up in Kawaguchiko, near the lake. But that we had to sort out there. Tomorrow at 10.40am the bus is leaving. Perfect.
Now we wanted to go to the movies and got on the bus. We showed our tickets but it wasn’t valid here. What? How come it was valid yesterday? Nicole started to discuss. But the driver did not understand a thing. An old lady tipped me on my shoulder and wanted to give me Yen 200 so Nicole could pay. How sweet of her. But we couldn’t and did not want to accept it. We got off the bus and were already on our way to the subway as we thought maybe we should try again with the next bus. It really worked.
Unfortunately, the film had started when we got to the cinema. The next show was at 8pm. That was too late for us as we had to be back at the hostel at 11pm. They told us that there was also a cinema near our hostel and the movie would start at 8.30pm. But by the time we crossed the whole time and got there it was also too late. Maybe it shouldn’t be.
So instead of the movies we went to the Internet-Café. Heidi, a friend of ours in Germany, sent us an email that there had been a terrible earthquake in North Japan. 7.5 on the Richter scale. One could even feel it in Tokyo. No, not really. We did not feel a thing and were quite surprised to hear about it.
Thursday, September 25, 2003
Tokyo
We had to hurry. Check-out was normally at 9am. But we thought 9.30am would do as well. Somebody knocked on Nicole’s door. “Check-out time 9 o’clock.” “Packing” shouted Nicole. I was already expecting the knocks on my door. But nothing. Why that? Didn’t I need to leave? Yesterday it was said that everything was fully booked. As Nicole was nearly done with her packing she went downstairs to check if we could stay in my room. No. I hurried up. Nicole had finished her packing. Quickly folded the sheets, stuck them under my arm and went outside. Nicole was already waiting for me. I gave her a big grin but what kind of face did she make? Ah, the sheets. She had forgotten them. We could store our luggage here again as we could only check-in into the other hostel at 5pm.
Today we had to pick up our visas for China. Which subway ticket should we get for today? The one from yesterday was not worth taking as we knew. Maybe the cheaper one for Yen 700. We pissed about all morning and now again we ran out of time. It was already 11.30am. We made it just on time. Everything went fine with our visas. We paid Yen 7,000 and that was it. All settled to go.
Now we were hungry. But it was noon and we had booked the Mori Tower-Tour yesterday. Do we really have to go? It’s so foggy anyway that one can’t even see the top of the tower. Wouldn’t it just be a waste of Yen 2,000 if we went? We agreed that we didn’t need to go. Now food. We found a bagel café. Mmmmmmh…
We thought to go and have a look at our new hostel so we don’t have to look for it with our rucksacks on. To our surprise we could already check-in. But first shoes off. Our room was on the third floor. Of course the top floor. The stairs up were really tiny. Much too small for our big Westerners’ feet. It was one of those typical Japanese rooms. Paper walls and sliding doors. Futon mattress as bed and in the middle a small table and chairs with no legs. But at least we didn’t have to leave the room at a certain time in the morning. Tomorrow we could have a lay in.
On our way back to the Olympic hostel we visited the Meiji Jingu-Shrine. At 6pm we got our luggage and went back to the new hostel. All these stairs at the stations were killing me. And we had to change trains three times. Back in the hotel again all these creepy stairs. I was so glad when I could take off the rucksack.
A few minutes walk from here was an Internet-Café. There we’ve spent the rest of the evening. All of a sudden, it was 10.50pm. Oh no. At 11pm the hostel closes and we don’t have a key. Now we better hurry or we will have to sleep outside on the street. And that after we paid already. Only around the next corner. Eeeh??? Or was it the other corner? Where now? 10.55pm – quick, we have to find it. Maybe this way? Or rather back again? No, wait, over there I see it. 10.58pm – we made it.
Today we had to pick up our visas for China. Which subway ticket should we get for today? The one from yesterday was not worth taking as we knew. Maybe the cheaper one for Yen 700. We pissed about all morning and now again we ran out of time. It was already 11.30am. We made it just on time. Everything went fine with our visas. We paid Yen 7,000 and that was it. All settled to go.
Now we were hungry. But it was noon and we had booked the Mori Tower-Tour yesterday. Do we really have to go? It’s so foggy anyway that one can’t even see the top of the tower. Wouldn’t it just be a waste of Yen 2,000 if we went? We agreed that we didn’t need to go. Now food. We found a bagel café. Mmmmmmh…
We thought to go and have a look at our new hostel so we don’t have to look for it with our rucksacks on. To our surprise we could already check-in. But first shoes off. Our room was on the third floor. Of course the top floor. The stairs up were really tiny. Much too small for our big Westerners’ feet. It was one of those typical Japanese rooms. Paper walls and sliding doors. Futon mattress as bed and in the middle a small table and chairs with no legs. But at least we didn’t have to leave the room at a certain time in the morning. Tomorrow we could have a lay in.
On our way back to the Olympic hostel we visited the Meiji Jingu-Shrine. At 6pm we got our luggage and went back to the new hostel. All these stairs at the stations were killing me. And we had to change trains three times. Back in the hotel again all these creepy stairs. I was so glad when I could take off the rucksack.
A few minutes walk from here was an Internet-Café. There we’ve spent the rest of the evening. All of a sudden, it was 10.50pm. Oh no. At 11pm the hostel closes and we don’t have a key. Now we better hurry or we will have to sleep outside on the street. And that after we paid already. Only around the next corner. Eeeh??? Or was it the other corner? Where now? 10.55pm – quick, we have to find it. Maybe this way? Or rather back again? No, wait, over there I see it. 10.58pm – we made it.
Wednesday, September 24, 2003
Tokyo
Today again such an embassy day. Hopefully, Tokyo does not turn out to be another Helsinki for us. We'll also get a one-day subway ticket in order not to spend as much money as yesterday. But where can we buy these? With the English flyer in our hands we've been sent from one end to the other. Nobody seemed to know what we wanted. Or did one just not understand us? Damn! It cannot be true. We did not want to lose time with looking for that ticket. But now we have already spent more than an hour in one of Tokyo's subway stations just in order to get this stupid ticket. It was almost already 11am and by now we know that embassies do close at noon time. Let's go. Then, eventually, we found someone who could help us with our one-day-ticket. But Yen 1,580? Why is it so expensive? Well, there are two subway operators. If one has a ticket of only one of them it may happen that one comes to a station which is not covered by that operator. Then one needs to pay later. Wow. So if it's not worth buying it? Yesterday at least we did not spend as much money. It doesn't matter now. Time runs. Let's go to Roppongi, the embassy area. Being there we had a quick look at the map which first of all confused us a bit. But then it dawned upon us. Hell for leather we headed for the embassy. However, ... something is wrong here. Are we again wrong? We asked someone and ... damn! In fact, we went the wrong direction. How come? On the map ... Another 20 minutes from here. By foot. It's already 11.15am. What if we get lost again? We would lose another day. So, let's hurry ... We almost ran the way back. To be sure we asked again. Good, we're still right. At 11.30am we reached the embassy. Uff. Well done!
We filled in our application form and just before noon it was clear that we could pick up the visum on Monday. Hmm... maybe we should aks for an express visa? It's only Yen 3,000 more, still cheaper than staying five more nights in Tokyo. So, yes. With the express comment the lady at the counter closed the window. Closed. Well, perfect time management!
Now, what about some sight-seeing? The Tokyo Tower which looks similar to the Eiffel Tower - at least on the night picture we had seen - is not far away from here. On our way there we passed the Mori Tower. This one is even higher than the Tokyo Tower so why not look at the town from up here? We want to do a panomara tour but it was only possible at 3.40pm with an English tour guide. Too late. Either now or never. Or maybe tomorrow? OK. Noon time is not too early for us, we'll make that. One can see the Tokyo Tower from here. Actually, quite ugly (red and white) and not at all like the Eiffel Tower. No, there's no need anymore to walk there.
It started to rain. Sight-seeing in the rain? Who does like that? For a change we took a bus. Yes, we were allowed to take it with our great ticket. The bus drivers in Japan all wear uniforms, including gloves. In white. What we also realized is that the driver turns off the engine every time the traffic lights is red. We found out later though that this is dependant on the driver.
We got off at Shibuya station. According to the tourist guide the busiest intersection world-wide. We had a look at the Hachiko statue. It's the statue of a loyal - one may say stupid - dog which waited for its dog-owner after he had died. This spot is Shibuya's station most famous meeting place.
It rained more and more and obviously we could see more and more umbrellas. Actually, does every Japanese have an umbrella? Aparrently not, as one can get an umbrella for some Yen from an umbrella stand at every corner and just give it back at another stand if one doesn't need it anymore. But there's more to that than this. The Japanese do top it. They put the used umbrella in an umbrella plastic bag so it doesn't drop when being in a shop or in a restaurant. That's very efficient as everything remains clean.
In the world's largest Tower Records (CD shop) one can buy CDs on six floors and English books on the 7th. Books? Again? Aren't our rucksacks heavy enough? Isn't our library big enough yet? We spent hours looking at several travel books. Where else to go? What's to see here? Where to stay overnight there? For which country do we need a visa? In the end we both had a travel guide on China in our bags. Of course, we bought it.
Now off to the cinema. Do they actually show English movies here? Yes, they do. But too late. The movie only starts at 8pm but as we had to be back in the Youth Hostel at 10pm... we spent the evening writing. Three reports for our website. Well, if we now write three reports every evening, the reports will be done within the next 10 days. Let's see how disciplined we are.
We filled in our application form and just before noon it was clear that we could pick up the visum on Monday. Hmm... maybe we should aks for an express visa? It's only Yen 3,000 more, still cheaper than staying five more nights in Tokyo. So, yes. With the express comment the lady at the counter closed the window. Closed. Well, perfect time management!
Now, what about some sight-seeing? The Tokyo Tower which looks similar to the Eiffel Tower - at least on the night picture we had seen - is not far away from here. On our way there we passed the Mori Tower. This one is even higher than the Tokyo Tower so why not look at the town from up here? We want to do a panomara tour but it was only possible at 3.40pm with an English tour guide. Too late. Either now or never. Or maybe tomorrow? OK. Noon time is not too early for us, we'll make that. One can see the Tokyo Tower from here. Actually, quite ugly (red and white) and not at all like the Eiffel Tower. No, there's no need anymore to walk there.
It started to rain. Sight-seeing in the rain? Who does like that? For a change we took a bus. Yes, we were allowed to take it with our great ticket. The bus drivers in Japan all wear uniforms, including gloves. In white. What we also realized is that the driver turns off the engine every time the traffic lights is red. We found out later though that this is dependant on the driver.
We got off at Shibuya station. According to the tourist guide the busiest intersection world-wide. We had a look at the Hachiko statue. It's the statue of a loyal - one may say stupid - dog which waited for its dog-owner after he had died. This spot is Shibuya's station most famous meeting place.
It rained more and more and obviously we could see more and more umbrellas. Actually, does every Japanese have an umbrella? Aparrently not, as one can get an umbrella for some Yen from an umbrella stand at every corner and just give it back at another stand if one doesn't need it anymore. But there's more to that than this. The Japanese do top it. They put the used umbrella in an umbrella plastic bag so it doesn't drop when being in a shop or in a restaurant. That's very efficient as everything remains clean.
In the world's largest Tower Records (CD shop) one can buy CDs on six floors and English books on the 7th. Books? Again? Aren't our rucksacks heavy enough? Isn't our library big enough yet? We spent hours looking at several travel books. Where else to go? What's to see here? Where to stay overnight there? For which country do we need a visa? In the end we both had a travel guide on China in our bags. Of course, we bought it.
Now off to the cinema. Do they actually show English movies here? Yes, they do. But too late. The movie only starts at 8pm but as we had to be back in the Youth Hostel at 10pm... we spent the evening writing. Three reports for our website. Well, if we now write three reports every evening, the reports will be done within the next 10 days. Let's see how disciplined we are.
Tuesday, September 23, 2003
Tokyo
Just before reaching Tokyo we got woken up gently by some Japanese music. The bus stopped a few times and people got off. At the final stop we were quite surprised. Where was the station? Has it been at one of the other stops already? Of course, the bus driver didn't speak any English. He wanted to have something from us. But what? He explained it to us very calmly over and over again. Maybe he wants to have our tickets? I (Ramona) showed him mine and it made him so happy. See, communication is no problem.
We went to a hotel to ask for a map and the way to the station. Sorry, no English. And the words "Youth Hostel" they didn't seem to know either. We got the map but it didn't really help as there were no street names on it. We got to the station anyway but here we found no help either. Today was a public holiday and most of the shops were closed. Opposite the station in a small street we saw a hotel. Again, no English. Understandable, after we found out what kind of hotel it was. We could have gotten a room till 5pm but after that business hotel. Thanks, but no.
We went to the Tokyo main station in hope to find some help there. Buying the subway ticket was already an adventure. The time tables were in Japanese only. The English versions were well hidden. We tried out the ticket machine. At least it could speak English. Now we only had to find the right track. Thanks to a lot of Japanese people we got there. Near the Tokyo station there was supposed to be the Tourist Information. We dragged ourselves there. Our backs and hips started hurting now. Surely, once we're there everything will work out quickly. We totally forgot about the time. It was still very early. The Information was still closed and we had to wait till 9am and nearly fell asleep. Shortly after 9am there was still nobody. ??? Of course, it's public holiday. And what now? Internet. We surely find something there. Right. We got an address. Back to the subway. We asked a young woman the direction to the platform. She didn't know but found out for us and instead of explaining us the way she took us there. Unbelievable! Are all Japanese like that? In Suidobashi we got off the subway. But in which direction is the hostel? We asked in a photo shop. She called somewhere and drew us a map. She couldn't speak any English. At last, we found the hostel. One double room please. Sorry, fully booked. Oh no, please not! We don't want anymore. Everything hurts. We asked the receptionist if he could call at the other hostel to see if they had availability. We got lucky. Reserved for us. We didn't want to walk anymore. Taxi. Euro20. But it was worth it.
The hostel was in the middle of the Olympic Youth Center. Everywhere were Security men and the athletes were running around. Check-in was only after 5pm but we could leave our luggage.
We went to Shibuya, the world's busiest intersection in a huge electronic area. We've never seen so many people on a crossing. Six or eight streets come together here and all pedestrian lights are green at the same time. What a chaos in the center! But everything went fine. And no rushing and no pushing. Then again we were standing there not knowing where to go. We wanted to go to the Tower Records. It only took seconds and someone asked us if we needed help. Amazing.
Just before 6pm we checked into the hostel. They only had single rooms. The TV and the lounge had to be turned off at 11pm, lights off at midnight and nobody in the rooms between 9am and 5pm. Where did we land here?
We went to a hotel to ask for a map and the way to the station. Sorry, no English. And the words "Youth Hostel" they didn't seem to know either. We got the map but it didn't really help as there were no street names on it. We got to the station anyway but here we found no help either. Today was a public holiday and most of the shops were closed. Opposite the station in a small street we saw a hotel. Again, no English. Understandable, after we found out what kind of hotel it was. We could have gotten a room till 5pm but after that business hotel. Thanks, but no.
We went to the Tokyo main station in hope to find some help there. Buying the subway ticket was already an adventure. The time tables were in Japanese only. The English versions were well hidden. We tried out the ticket machine. At least it could speak English. Now we only had to find the right track. Thanks to a lot of Japanese people we got there. Near the Tokyo station there was supposed to be the Tourist Information. We dragged ourselves there. Our backs and hips started hurting now. Surely, once we're there everything will work out quickly. We totally forgot about the time. It was still very early. The Information was still closed and we had to wait till 9am and nearly fell asleep. Shortly after 9am there was still nobody. ??? Of course, it's public holiday. And what now? Internet. We surely find something there. Right. We got an address. Back to the subway. We asked a young woman the direction to the platform. She didn't know but found out for us and instead of explaining us the way she took us there. Unbelievable! Are all Japanese like that? In Suidobashi we got off the subway. But in which direction is the hostel? We asked in a photo shop. She called somewhere and drew us a map. She couldn't speak any English. At last, we found the hostel. One double room please. Sorry, fully booked. Oh no, please not! We don't want anymore. Everything hurts. We asked the receptionist if he could call at the other hostel to see if they had availability. We got lucky. Reserved for us. We didn't want to walk anymore. Taxi. Euro20. But it was worth it.
The hostel was in the middle of the Olympic Youth Center. Everywhere were Security men and the athletes were running around. Check-in was only after 5pm but we could leave our luggage.
We went to Shibuya, the world's busiest intersection in a huge electronic area. We've never seen so many people on a crossing. Six or eight streets come together here and all pedestrian lights are green at the same time. What a chaos in the center! But everything went fine. And no rushing and no pushing. Then again we were standing there not knowing where to go. We wanted to go to the Tower Records. It only took seconds and someone asked us if we needed help. Amazing.
Just before 6pm we checked into the hostel. They only had single rooms. The TV and the lounge had to be turned off at 11pm, lights off at midnight and nobody in the rooms between 9am and 5pm. Where did we land here?
Monday, September 22, 2003
Fushiki - Kanazawa
What a bumpy night! The sea still hadn't calmed down although we'll soon reach the pier and put our feet on Japanese ground for the first time in our life. We were both looking forward to that. Eeeh! What's that? Are these Japanese? There had been a few men wearing blue overalls and orange helmets. Are these really Japanese men? But they don't wear suits. And what about their cameras? Well, ok, they are little...
The ferry got tied up and we got our rucksacks. And already the first confusion: What time is it? It's 10.30am Vladiwostok time. So we add two hours which makes it 12.30pm. But the woman at the reception always drivels something about 8.30am. So, what's the time? And why do we have to turn back the clock? We went even further east. We cannot explain it but in fact, it is only 8.30am.
We then were doomed to wait. We were not allowed to leave the ferry until the Japanese customs had come on board. When the customs man saw our backpacks he could only laugh. But he should not even think of asking us to unpack it. In that case he would definitely get to know our German temper. He had mercy with us. But we were stuck for another hour as we also needed a stamp in our passport. We eventually got it and with that were allowed to stay in Japan for 90 days. Thus, it also does work without visa.
We want to go to Tokyo but first we need some cash. But this is not easy at all. Most of the Japanese cash machines would only accept Japanese cards. Well, how are we going to manage that? Fushiki is only a small town. But at the station we met Joyce, Matthias and Claudia again. They all had already train tickets to got to Kanazawa. Why go there? According to Joyce's Japanese friend it's a nice town and from there we can take a bus to Tokyo. OK, convinced. Fortunately, Matthias lent us some money so we could at least buy that ticket. And luckily there was also Joyce's friend who helped us in getting these. As English? What's that? One doesn't yet seem to know at the country side.
In Kanazawa, we first headed for the Tourist Information. Finally, we are back in a country where they know what a Tourist Information is at all. :) And here they could even help in English. A fantastic feeling! Then off to the post office to get some cash. Here, they even accept Maestro. Although one can only withdraw Yen 10,000 at one time. That's only about Euro 100 which will only last for a day here. Let's wait and see how much fees we have to pay for that. ... We also wanted to get our Russian Rubels changed. But the Japanese don't even know that money. The man had to look in his books first only to tell us then with a nice smile on his face that he cannot change that money.
We bought a ticket for the night bus to Tokyo. 9.50pm departure, arrival in Tokyo at 5.00am - far too early. But what can we do? We then walked to the Kenrokuen Garden which apparently is one of the most beautiful Japanese landscape gardens in the world.
But what is a Japanese garden? "Japanese landscape gardens are reproductions of natural scenery within a given space. Trees, flowers, stones, paths, > streams, ... should be represented as they appear in nature." Well, for us though it was a garden as every other garden as well. Whether we will at some point see the difference?
When we got our backpacks in the evening we met Joyce again. We had said good-bye this morning already as we all had different plans. But now we waited together for our bus. The bus was in time and fortunately it wasn't fully booked. Like that we could both have two seats and have it "comfortable". And in addition to that, there was not only a blanket for everybody but also slippers so one does not have to go to the loo just wearing socks. :)
The ferry got tied up and we got our rucksacks. And already the first confusion: What time is it? It's 10.30am Vladiwostok time. So we add two hours which makes it 12.30pm. But the woman at the reception always drivels something about 8.30am. So, what's the time? And why do we have to turn back the clock? We went even further east. We cannot explain it but in fact, it is only 8.30am.
We then were doomed to wait. We were not allowed to leave the ferry until the Japanese customs had come on board. When the customs man saw our backpacks he could only laugh. But he should not even think of asking us to unpack it. In that case he would definitely get to know our German temper. He had mercy with us. But we were stuck for another hour as we also needed a stamp in our passport. We eventually got it and with that were allowed to stay in Japan for 90 days. Thus, it also does work without visa.
We want to go to Tokyo but first we need some cash. But this is not easy at all. Most of the Japanese cash machines would only accept Japanese cards. Well, how are we going to manage that? Fushiki is only a small town. But at the station we met Joyce, Matthias and Claudia again. They all had already train tickets to got to Kanazawa. Why go there? According to Joyce's Japanese friend it's a nice town and from there we can take a bus to Tokyo. OK, convinced. Fortunately, Matthias lent us some money so we could at least buy that ticket. And luckily there was also Joyce's friend who helped us in getting these. As English? What's that? One doesn't yet seem to know at the country side.
In Kanazawa, we first headed for the Tourist Information. Finally, we are back in a country where they know what a Tourist Information is at all. :) And here they could even help in English. A fantastic feeling! Then off to the post office to get some cash. Here, they even accept Maestro. Although one can only withdraw Yen 10,000 at one time. That's only about Euro 100 which will only last for a day here. Let's wait and see how much fees we have to pay for that. ... We also wanted to get our Russian Rubels changed. But the Japanese don't even know that money. The man had to look in his books first only to tell us then with a nice smile on his face that he cannot change that money.
We bought a ticket for the night bus to Tokyo. 9.50pm departure, arrival in Tokyo at 5.00am - far too early. But what can we do? We then walked to the Kenrokuen Garden which apparently is one of the most beautiful Japanese landscape gardens in the world.
But what is a Japanese garden? "Japanese landscape gardens are reproductions of natural scenery within a given space. Trees, flowers, stones, paths, > streams, ... should be represented as they appear in nature." Well, for us though it was a garden as every other garden as well. Whether we will at some point see the difference?
When we got our backpacks in the evening we met Joyce again. We had said good-bye this morning already as we all had different plans. But now we waited together for our bus. The bus was in time and fortunately it wasn't fully booked. Like that we could both have two seats and have it "comfortable". And in addition to that, there was not only a blanket for everybody but also slippers so one does not have to go to the loo just wearing socks. :)
Sunday, September 21, 2003
Ferry to Fushiki / Japan
At 9am on the spot we sat upright in our beds. Our hearts nearly stopped. The loudspeakers were bursting out: breakfast time! Oh no, not just yet! We only went to bed a while ago. But as we were thirsty we didn't have a choice. Then, right after the breakfast we went back to bed. Sleeping was out of question though. Every half an hour the loudspeakers were turned on for announcements. We were so tired.
In the afternoon we went on deck and sat in the sun. It was ever so hot. Suddenly there was an alert. Had something happened? Nobody seemed to care though. Then crewmembers came running upstairs with their lifejackets on. Surely they would have said something if the ship was about to sink, wouldn't they? After 5 minutes they came back. So it was only a test alert. That they acctually do this. They don't even care about the state of the ships.
It got even hotter. On the uper deck there was a swimmingpool. 3x3x2m. Guess we should try that. We were only too lazy to get our swimming cloths out of the cabin. Maybe we could just go like this. So we did. Uh, it was 0,5cm cold. We could hardly breath. As there were big waves in the sea, we had the same in the pool. It was so funny. Of course, we got company very fast. Was it because of our clothing? Or better non existing clothing? And again we were the highlight of the ship.
After a few minutes we lay down in the sun to dry off. Then, suddenly they let out the water of the pool and put fresh water in. How nice! Does this mean we have to jump in again? Ok.
We sat outside until 7pm. I nodded off a few times. As I woke up the last time, I felt terribly sick. Was that seasickness? But I'v never had that before. All over sudden Claudia came running and bent over the railing. We only had dinner for four tonight. I took some seasickness pills just in case and quickly felt better. As we were finished with dinner, Claudia was still standing outside.
Later we got to know why the sea was so rough. There was a typhoon in the south of Japan. Was it because of that that the crew did the training alert?
The later it got, the rougher it got. Walking straight without stumbling was impossible. Near our cabin there was a loud bang every time a big wave went by. What could that be? A door would surely have fallen into the lock already.
In the afternoon we went on deck and sat in the sun. It was ever so hot. Suddenly there was an alert. Had something happened? Nobody seemed to care though. Then crewmembers came running upstairs with their lifejackets on. Surely they would have said something if the ship was about to sink, wouldn't they? After 5 minutes they came back. So it was only a test alert. That they acctually do this. They don't even care about the state of the ships.
It got even hotter. On the uper deck there was a swimmingpool. 3x3x2m. Guess we should try that. We were only too lazy to get our swimming cloths out of the cabin. Maybe we could just go like this. So we did. Uh, it was 0,5cm cold. We could hardly breath. As there were big waves in the sea, we had the same in the pool. It was so funny. Of course, we got company very fast. Was it because of our clothing? Or better non existing clothing? And again we were the highlight of the ship.
After a few minutes we lay down in the sun to dry off. Then, suddenly they let out the water of the pool and put fresh water in. How nice! Does this mean we have to jump in again? Ok.
We sat outside until 7pm. I nodded off a few times. As I woke up the last time, I felt terribly sick. Was that seasickness? But I'v never had that before. All over sudden Claudia came running and bent over the railing. We only had dinner for four tonight. I took some seasickness pills just in case and quickly felt better. As we were finished with dinner, Claudia was still standing outside.
Later we got to know why the sea was so rough. There was a typhoon in the south of Japan. Was it because of that that the crew did the training alert?
The later it got, the rougher it got. Walking straight without stumbling was impossible. Near our cabin there was a loud bang every time a big wave went by. What could that be? A door would surely have fallen into the lock already.
Saturday, September 20, 2003
Vladiwostock - Ferry to Japan
A shower! Once more before getting on the ferry. Whether there'll be water? At home we do not have to think about that but here ... I (Nicole) was lucky. The reason for the water problem though we still don't know.
About noon we left our hotel rooms. No second earlier than we had to. Our ferry to Fushiki/Japan was supposed to leave in 2.5 hours. Thus, we still have some time left. But to walk with these heavy rucksacks? No, out of question. Not if we can take a bus. We were just about to pass the street when a jeep stopped. The driver asked us in English where we come from and where we wanted to go. He offered us to take us to the harbour. Hmm, can we trust a Russian? We hesitated for a moment but the Russian had already opened the car boot. OK, well, now we couldn't refuse anymore. And somehow it was all right with us as he could certainly take us closer to the harbour than the bus. We learned from him that he used to be a backpacker, too and therefore, is happy to help. Fantastic! But what's that? That's not the right direction to the harbour? Where does he take us? Hm, it's surely only a shortcut. He all of a sudden then asked us whether we would have a couple of minutes. Oops, what are his plans with us? OK, what for? "Do you want to be on Vladiwostok news?" Eeh, hello? Did we get that right? "Excuse me, would you say that again?" "I work for Vladiwostok news and would like to do a report on you." Of course, we now had plenty of time. Our ferry is only at 2.30pm. We drove to the office but no-one seemed to work on a Saturday. At least no camera man. Oh no, whether this goes right now? But it didn't matter. The driver, whose name we still didn't know, took his own camera and presented us to two of his colleagues. We had to put our rucksacks on and action! We had been asked where we were from, how we like Russia, what we do in Vladiwostok, where we will go next, etc. We had also been asked for our view on the water problem. ... Of course, Ramona and I had agreed on our responses before as we didn't want to tread on the Russian's toes and give political correct answers. After a few minutes everything was over. It didn't have to be redone, well, we even didn't have to go to the stylist. We probably just are geniuses! :) As promised, the driver then took us to the harbour. Only then he told us his name. Dimitri will now work on the film and will then publish it. He asked us to send him an email once we are back in Germany. He'll then send us the video.
He also explained us the water problem in Vladiwostok. The lake of which Vladiwostok gets its water is almost empty. One could put pipelines to get water from different places but the government would just not pay for that. So, in the office of the film crew i.e. there is only water for 10 hours, then 30 hours without. Especially for the toilets this is rather disgusting. And above all, people in Vladiwostok do suffer from that. How they will solve this problem? And when?
In the travel agency, where we got back our passports and were also given our ferry tickets, we got to know Joyce from Chicago. She also wants to go to Fushiki. At 3pm we could finally leave the agency for the ferry. First to the passport control. Is there a problem? Maybe because we haven't registered in time? The woman in the glass case was clearly swamped with the situation. She phoned several times, served other people before us while we stood there like packed donkeys. Then, eventually another woman turned up and now it seemed to work. Bang! That was the stamp. We are allowed to depart. Japan, we'll come ...
At 7pm it was announced through the ever so loud loudspeakers that the restaurant had been opened. We went there and had been put at a table for six just in the middle of the restaurant. Why a table for six? And why is there a 'reserved' sign? Well, that probably is the tourist table as Joyce as well as Matthias and Claudia, a Swiss couple, joined us. It was surely because we were the highlight on the boat as there are only Russians.
There was enough to eat and it was alright. But we couldn't just get anything to drink. Why not? We haven't been told. But later with the cake we got some tea. Well, now the waitress had to run a lot. We all wanted to have several cups of tea. She probably hates us already.
In the evening, we tourists met in the music saloon. We had been the first guests and there were only a few to come. This didn't matter though to the entertainer. He started immediately but it was far too loud. Ramona and I couldn't afford any good drinks or cocktails as we had spent our last Rubels for the ferry ticket and had hardly no cash with us. The rest of our coins was just enough for a coke.
But one seemed to have mercy with us. A Russian guy from the neighbour table - in the meantime about six Russians had a party there - got us a bottle of Vodka with short glasses as well as a decanter of apple juice. Now we had lost! We couldn't get out of it anymore. We had to drink it as in Russia it's very impolite to refuse such an invitation. But pure Vodka? We only drink it mixed with orange juice, Red Bull, or others. But here? No way. We had apple juice to drink after the Vodka but not with it. ... When we had finally emptied the bottle, Joyce, Matthias and Claudia managed to leave. Ramona and I however, had been invited to the Russian table. And only now it started. They changed from Vodka to Whisky, Cognac and Martini. We didn't always manage to hide our glasses. They just poured it in every time and we had to toast then and of course drink. We had a real party. We even danced to really bad music - if that doesn't say everything. And again we had been the highlight. We partied until 4.30am ...
About noon we left our hotel rooms. No second earlier than we had to. Our ferry to Fushiki/Japan was supposed to leave in 2.5 hours. Thus, we still have some time left. But to walk with these heavy rucksacks? No, out of question. Not if we can take a bus. We were just about to pass the street when a jeep stopped. The driver asked us in English where we come from and where we wanted to go. He offered us to take us to the harbour. Hmm, can we trust a Russian? We hesitated for a moment but the Russian had already opened the car boot. OK, well, now we couldn't refuse anymore. And somehow it was all right with us as he could certainly take us closer to the harbour than the bus. We learned from him that he used to be a backpacker, too and therefore, is happy to help. Fantastic! But what's that? That's not the right direction to the harbour? Where does he take us? Hm, it's surely only a shortcut. He all of a sudden then asked us whether we would have a couple of minutes. Oops, what are his plans with us? OK, what for? "Do you want to be on Vladiwostok news?" Eeh, hello? Did we get that right? "Excuse me, would you say that again?" "I work for Vladiwostok news and would like to do a report on you." Of course, we now had plenty of time. Our ferry is only at 2.30pm. We drove to the office but no-one seemed to work on a Saturday. At least no camera man. Oh no, whether this goes right now? But it didn't matter. The driver, whose name we still didn't know, took his own camera and presented us to two of his colleagues. We had to put our rucksacks on and action! We had been asked where we were from, how we like Russia, what we do in Vladiwostok, where we will go next, etc. We had also been asked for our view on the water problem. ... Of course, Ramona and I had agreed on our responses before as we didn't want to tread on the Russian's toes and give political correct answers. After a few minutes everything was over. It didn't have to be redone, well, we even didn't have to go to the stylist. We probably just are geniuses! :) As promised, the driver then took us to the harbour. Only then he told us his name. Dimitri will now work on the film and will then publish it. He asked us to send him an email once we are back in Germany. He'll then send us the video.
He also explained us the water problem in Vladiwostok. The lake of which Vladiwostok gets its water is almost empty. One could put pipelines to get water from different places but the government would just not pay for that. So, in the office of the film crew i.e. there is only water for 10 hours, then 30 hours without. Especially for the toilets this is rather disgusting. And above all, people in Vladiwostok do suffer from that. How they will solve this problem? And when?
In the travel agency, where we got back our passports and were also given our ferry tickets, we got to know Joyce from Chicago. She also wants to go to Fushiki. At 3pm we could finally leave the agency for the ferry. First to the passport control. Is there a problem? Maybe because we haven't registered in time? The woman in the glass case was clearly swamped with the situation. She phoned several times, served other people before us while we stood there like packed donkeys. Then, eventually another woman turned up and now it seemed to work. Bang! That was the stamp. We are allowed to depart. Japan, we'll come ...
At 7pm it was announced through the ever so loud loudspeakers that the restaurant had been opened. We went there and had been put at a table for six just in the middle of the restaurant. Why a table for six? And why is there a 'reserved' sign? Well, that probably is the tourist table as Joyce as well as Matthias and Claudia, a Swiss couple, joined us. It was surely because we were the highlight on the boat as there are only Russians.
There was enough to eat and it was alright. But we couldn't just get anything to drink. Why not? We haven't been told. But later with the cake we got some tea. Well, now the waitress had to run a lot. We all wanted to have several cups of tea. She probably hates us already.
In the evening, we tourists met in the music saloon. We had been the first guests and there were only a few to come. This didn't matter though to the entertainer. He started immediately but it was far too loud. Ramona and I couldn't afford any good drinks or cocktails as we had spent our last Rubels for the ferry ticket and had hardly no cash with us. The rest of our coins was just enough for a coke.
But one seemed to have mercy with us. A Russian guy from the neighbour table - in the meantime about six Russians had a party there - got us a bottle of Vodka with short glasses as well as a decanter of apple juice. Now we had lost! We couldn't get out of it anymore. We had to drink it as in Russia it's very impolite to refuse such an invitation. But pure Vodka? We only drink it mixed with orange juice, Red Bull, or others. But here? No way. We had apple juice to drink after the Vodka but not with it. ... When we had finally emptied the bottle, Joyce, Matthias and Claudia managed to leave. Ramona and I however, had been invited to the Russian table. And only now it started. They changed from Vodka to Whisky, Cognac and Martini. We didn't always manage to hide our glasses. They just poured it in every time and we had to toast then and of course drink. We had a real party. We even danced to really bad music - if that doesn't say everything. And again we had been the highlight. We partied until 4.30am ...
Friday, September 19, 2003
Vladiwostock
Arround lunch time we went into town. First to the ferry terminal to buy our tickets to Japan. They kept our passports. Hopefully we will be able to get out of Russia with it, as we forgot to get our visa registered which we should have done 3 days after entering the country at the latest. We only got the stamp 5 days ago by accident. Although they had told us to do so when we picked up our visa. Typical! We really are some sleepyheads.
The tickets we wanted to pay by visacard. No! Only Cash. So we went to get some. We only got as much as we needed for the thickets as we won't spend a lot today anyway. The ATM was at the post office and while we were there we thought to send our parcel home, some books we had read, citymaps and brochures. Staff one collects on such a journey which would be unnessesary weight to carry. But to send it, you can not just do like that. First everything has to be packed correctly. For this there was an extra counter. Queueing. The stuff got first wrapped into paper and glued. For the big parcels a piece of cloth was cut and then sewed with a machine to form a sack. The parcel is put in and then the last open end is sewed close per hand. Finally, the sews got sealed with wax for safety. No wonder it takes so long. This service of course was not free of charge. We had to pay Rubels 6 = Euro 0.20. Then we had to go to the next counter to post the parcel. The whole act took us nearly 20 Min. Back at the ferry ternimal we paid our tickets. Tomorrow at 2pm is boarding time.
We went to Al who had waited outside in the sun. He wanted to go to an Internet Cafe and later Nicole wanted to take him to the airport. Therefore, our ways parted here.
I went for a walk and ended up at the beach. Sitting down on an old pier I watched the people arround me. Some were swimming and the real touch ones climbed onto an old ship and jumped of the railing.
In the evening at the hotel I met up with Nicole again. We finished the day with a bottle of red wine.
The tickets we wanted to pay by visacard. No! Only Cash. So we went to get some. We only got as much as we needed for the thickets as we won't spend a lot today anyway. The ATM was at the post office and while we were there we thought to send our parcel home, some books we had read, citymaps and brochures. Staff one collects on such a journey which would be unnessesary weight to carry. But to send it, you can not just do like that. First everything has to be packed correctly. For this there was an extra counter. Queueing. The stuff got first wrapped into paper and glued. For the big parcels a piece of cloth was cut and then sewed with a machine to form a sack. The parcel is put in and then the last open end is sewed close per hand. Finally, the sews got sealed with wax for safety. No wonder it takes so long. This service of course was not free of charge. We had to pay Rubels 6 = Euro 0.20. Then we had to go to the next counter to post the parcel. The whole act took us nearly 20 Min. Back at the ferry ternimal we paid our tickets. Tomorrow at 2pm is boarding time.
We went to Al who had waited outside in the sun. He wanted to go to an Internet Cafe and later Nicole wanted to take him to the airport. Therefore, our ways parted here.
I went for a walk and ended up at the beach. Sitting down on an old pier I watched the people arround me. Some were swimming and the real touch ones climbed onto an old ship and jumped of the railing.
In the evening at the hotel I met up with Nicole again. We finished the day with a bottle of red wine.
Thursday, September 18, 2003
Vladiwostock
Today, we wanted to get up early in order to leave that den as soon as possible. But again we didn't manage. Only at 11.30am we had breakfast - same as yesterday. And I (Nicole) was so happy to finally get a chocolate drink. By accident, I had seen it in a shop yesterday and bought a big carton to share with Ramona. But I got so disappointed: Despite the brown package the chocolate proved to be just milk. Only then I remembered: the different colours show the different fat content. :(
After breakfast off we were. Take bus no 65 and hence to town. We had known that this bus only rides rarely so we were happy to see it already after 15 minutes of waiting. But what does the driver do? Why does he pass us? Both Al and Ramona had waived with their arms. Al's disappointment was clearly shown in his face, we could only laugh. Let's just take the next-best bus. It was a mini-bus. But it didn't go to the centre. In the middle of nowhere the bus stopped and wouldn't go any further. What about no 7? Maybe this will work out. We were lucky!
In the Internet Cafe we again had problems with our pictures. Then Al decided to take care of it. He uploaded them on his hard drive and will do the rest when he comes to Irkutsk. Well, this time we had solved the problem. But what about next time? Does it mean that we do have to buy a hard drive ourselves?
Later in the evening we wanted to have some drinks and sat down in a tent near the beach. I had seen a poster of Red Bull and was esperate for it. Al went off to get the drinks and spotted it just in time. Here, Red Bull is a strong American beer. Damn!
For dinner, we went to our Italian restaurant. It was our last evening with Al - he'll fly back to Irkutsk tomorrow - and he should have had some good Italian food before leaving. But everything was just not the same anymore. The waitress, a bunny, seemed to be new. We had ordered a starter and pizza. And what did she do? She served us the pizza first. Hello, are you alright? Ever been out eating in a restaurant? Well, no, it does not work like this. First the soup, then the pizza. On top of it she took away our seat plates. Why that? We let her do it though. Then, she eventually served the soup which was not hot anymore. No wonder. But where are our spoons? Well, guess she still needs to learn a lot. It's a tough job to be a waitress ...
After breakfast off we were. Take bus no 65 and hence to town. We had known that this bus only rides rarely so we were happy to see it already after 15 minutes of waiting. But what does the driver do? Why does he pass us? Both Al and Ramona had waived with their arms. Al's disappointment was clearly shown in his face, we could only laugh. Let's just take the next-best bus. It was a mini-bus. But it didn't go to the centre. In the middle of nowhere the bus stopped and wouldn't go any further. What about no 7? Maybe this will work out. We were lucky!
In the Internet Cafe we again had problems with our pictures. Then Al decided to take care of it. He uploaded them on his hard drive and will do the rest when he comes to Irkutsk. Well, this time we had solved the problem. But what about next time? Does it mean that we do have to buy a hard drive ourselves?
Later in the evening we wanted to have some drinks and sat down in a tent near the beach. I had seen a poster of Red Bull and was esperate for it. Al went off to get the drinks and spotted it just in time. Here, Red Bull is a strong American beer. Damn!
For dinner, we went to our Italian restaurant. It was our last evening with Al - he'll fly back to Irkutsk tomorrow - and he should have had some good Italian food before leaving. But everything was just not the same anymore. The waitress, a bunny, seemed to be new. We had ordered a starter and pizza. And what did she do? She served us the pizza first. Hello, are you alright? Ever been out eating in a restaurant? Well, no, it does not work like this. First the soup, then the pizza. On top of it she took away our seat plates. Why that? We let her do it though. Then, she eventually served the soup which was not hot anymore. No wonder. But where are our spoons? Well, guess she still needs to learn a lot. It's a tough job to be a waitress ...
Wednesday, September 17, 2003
Vladiwostock
Nicole woke me up as the breakfast was ready. She and Al had prepared it. Toast and tomatoes with melted cheese. It was even the good cheddar cheese. Oh, how delicious! Al wanted to go into town today to sort out his flight to Irkutsk. Nicole and me were not really in the mood to go all the way into town and rather stayed at the appartement. This was a great opportunity to bring our diaries up to date. We handed Al our shopping list and gave him our tickets to claim our ever so cheaply, freshly washed laundry on his way back.
We joined him the way to the bus stop and then went to buy some eggs for the potatoe salat and some red wine. We went back to the appartement and started writing our diaries with the little help of a bottle of wine. We managed to write quite a lot, but were not ready for long when Al got back.
He looked a littel worried. What had happened? I, I... I've got some bad news for you. Ey??? Well, it's got something to do with your laundry. Did it shrink? Or had the colors come our? A T-Shirt got torn? We made up all kinds of things and found it rather amusing. Al didn't. He really seemed to worry, but didn't know how to tell us. What is it? Didn't you have those Rubels110 and now we have to fetch it tomorow? No, but it got a little more expensive than we thought. Oh, we see. If it's only that and nothing worse. Then Al handed me (Ramona) my receipt and pounted to one spot. It said: USD! Oh!!! And then I bursted into laughter! I showed it to Nicole and she started laughing too. USD110 for only 3 T-Shirts each, 1 trousers and a few underwaer. Not bad! How could we have been so stupid! We knew it was a 4 star hotel and surely they wouldn't have bent a finger for only Euro3. How could this happen to us. Me, where I have worked in a hotel for about 10 years, and Nicole, who constantly had to deal with hotels workwise! About so much stupidity one could only laugh. Al was quite relieved now.
Nicole started mixing the sauce for our potato salad. Al had brought all ingredients, even our washing up liquid. So meanwhile Al and I did the dishes. Finally everything will become clean. Then it came to our minds that we didn't have anything to eat with the salad. Al and Nicole went to the shops again to get some sausages. Then, finally, we could enjoy our selfmade potato salad with sausage and red wine. Delicious!
We joined him the way to the bus stop and then went to buy some eggs for the potatoe salat and some red wine. We went back to the appartement and started writing our diaries with the little help of a bottle of wine. We managed to write quite a lot, but were not ready for long when Al got back.
He looked a littel worried. What had happened? I, I... I've got some bad news for you. Ey??? Well, it's got something to do with your laundry. Did it shrink? Or had the colors come our? A T-Shirt got torn? We made up all kinds of things and found it rather amusing. Al didn't. He really seemed to worry, but didn't know how to tell us. What is it? Didn't you have those Rubels110 and now we have to fetch it tomorow? No, but it got a little more expensive than we thought. Oh, we see. If it's only that and nothing worse. Then Al handed me (Ramona) my receipt and pounted to one spot. It said: USD! Oh!!! And then I bursted into laughter! I showed it to Nicole and she started laughing too. USD110 for only 3 T-Shirts each, 1 trousers and a few underwaer. Not bad! How could we have been so stupid! We knew it was a 4 star hotel and surely they wouldn't have bent a finger for only Euro3. How could this happen to us. Me, where I have worked in a hotel for about 10 years, and Nicole, who constantly had to deal with hotels workwise! About so much stupidity one could only laugh. Al was quite relieved now.
Nicole started mixing the sauce for our potato salad. Al had brought all ingredients, even our washing up liquid. So meanwhile Al and I did the dishes. Finally everything will become clean. Then it came to our minds that we didn't have anything to eat with the salad. Al and Nicole went to the shops again to get some sausages. Then, finally, we could enjoy our selfmade potato salad with sausage and red wine. Delicious!
Tuesday, September 16, 2003
Vladiwostock
Again it was time. I (Nicole) and my diarrhoe. I again woke up because of my stomch. But this time it wasn't the train which had stopped, this time there was no water. I couldn't just go ... oh no, better not. How would the loo look like afterwards? And how would it smell? No, no, first wait a bit longer and hope ... Why is it always me? But what was that? Isn't there anyone taking a shower? Fantastic. In that case there must be water.
We were just about to leave for downtown when we thought about extending our stay in the hotel. We had to let them know as we wanted to stay until Saturday. But there was a problem. What? The hotel is fully booked? Why that? How come? Who the hell stays in a hotel where there's only water at certain times? Oh man, what now? Were shall we go now? We needed a room for two nights. We could come back here on Thursday. Hmmm. Where shall we look for another hotel now? But they had mercy with us, they wanted to help us. The receptionist called a number and asked for 2 rooms for Al, Ramona and myself. But our Russian was already good enough by now to understand that it was fully booked, too. Next number. No, nothing. Another number. Negative again. I cannot believe it. The film festival is already over. But then - there was one. But we had to take the bus for 20 minutes. That's the last thing we wanted. But we had no choice. However, no matter how cheap this hotel was going to be, we wanted to be back in 'our' hotel from Thursday onwards. Don't they dare to forget our reservation. At least, we could leave our backpacks and only take the most important stuff: toilet bag, clean pants and our diary. Then, we went off. By bus. But where is he going? How does it look like here? Where did we finally end up? The area was everything but not nice. Everything wrecked, grotty and broken. And there is supposed to be a hotel here? Who the hell does want to live here voluntarily? The address led us to an office. When we entered the building, we almost had to hold our breath. Are we in the right building? Well, it was a home office. Legal? Who knows... A rather thicky woman opened the door and asked us to come in. She squeezed behind her desk, we three sat on the sofa in front of her just like in the dock. Luckily, Al was with us. His Russian was much better than ours. The woman quickly offered us a flat with three rooms for about Euro 45 a night. Oops. May we see that first? Where is the flat? About 20 minutes from here. By foot. Oh no.
Fortunately, we didn't bring our heavy rucksacks. We at home would call the area rather slums. But again we had no choice, hadn't we? We rushed through the flat and decided to go for it. The whole story took us several hours. The whole day was spoiled.
And we had to go back to town as we wanted to bring our clothes to the laundry. In the hotel then, we had to fill in a form and list every single item. Then, the lady calculated. Fantastic. Only Rubels 52 and 58, about Euro 3. Light footed and happy we went to the Internet-Cafe. We sent Al off to go shopping and he got a long shopping list. In the meantime, we tried to get our pictures sent to Tom, our webmaster. But it's like to milk mice. It again didn't work. Will we ever succeed in sending them over?
As it took ages to wait for bus no. 65 we decided to once more take a taxi. Rubels 200, Euro 6 is just what we could afford. If the driver had known though all the lanes and road holes he would have probably asked for more money. Now, it's too late. :)
Back in the flat we had to clean the kitchen first. But with what? There were dishes in the cupboard - but almost only used stuff. And the clean stuff was glued to everything. The table could be also cleaned for once. Luckily, we still had some toiletpaper. And one had filled water in bottles for us. Although, who knows for how long this had been here already? ... Well, one gets used to everything. We liked our dinner. A bit of red wine - this is not a bad life, is it?
After dinner I cooked 2 kilos of potatos. We wanted to have potato salad tomorrow. We'll see - Russian potato in the skin. I checked them every other minute. But obviously not good enough or not often enough. When I looked in the pot again, half of the potatoes had peeled off, some were just like mash. Well done, Nicole! I had to let them cool down and then make the best of a bad job.
We were just about to leave for downtown when we thought about extending our stay in the hotel. We had to let them know as we wanted to stay until Saturday. But there was a problem. What? The hotel is fully booked? Why that? How come? Who the hell stays in a hotel where there's only water at certain times? Oh man, what now? Were shall we go now? We needed a room for two nights. We could come back here on Thursday. Hmmm. Where shall we look for another hotel now? But they had mercy with us, they wanted to help us. The receptionist called a number and asked for 2 rooms for Al, Ramona and myself. But our Russian was already good enough by now to understand that it was fully booked, too. Next number. No, nothing. Another number. Negative again. I cannot believe it. The film festival is already over. But then - there was one. But we had to take the bus for 20 minutes. That's the last thing we wanted. But we had no choice. However, no matter how cheap this hotel was going to be, we wanted to be back in 'our' hotel from Thursday onwards. Don't they dare to forget our reservation. At least, we could leave our backpacks and only take the most important stuff: toilet bag, clean pants and our diary. Then, we went off. By bus. But where is he going? How does it look like here? Where did we finally end up? The area was everything but not nice. Everything wrecked, grotty and broken. And there is supposed to be a hotel here? Who the hell does want to live here voluntarily? The address led us to an office. When we entered the building, we almost had to hold our breath. Are we in the right building? Well, it was a home office. Legal? Who knows... A rather thicky woman opened the door and asked us to come in. She squeezed behind her desk, we three sat on the sofa in front of her just like in the dock. Luckily, Al was with us. His Russian was much better than ours. The woman quickly offered us a flat with three rooms for about Euro 45 a night. Oops. May we see that first? Where is the flat? About 20 minutes from here. By foot. Oh no.
Fortunately, we didn't bring our heavy rucksacks. We at home would call the area rather slums. But again we had no choice, hadn't we? We rushed through the flat and decided to go for it. The whole story took us several hours. The whole day was spoiled.
And we had to go back to town as we wanted to bring our clothes to the laundry. In the hotel then, we had to fill in a form and list every single item. Then, the lady calculated. Fantastic. Only Rubels 52 and 58, about Euro 3. Light footed and happy we went to the Internet-Cafe. We sent Al off to go shopping and he got a long shopping list. In the meantime, we tried to get our pictures sent to Tom, our webmaster. But it's like to milk mice. It again didn't work. Will we ever succeed in sending them over?
As it took ages to wait for bus no. 65 we decided to once more take a taxi. Rubels 200, Euro 6 is just what we could afford. If the driver had known though all the lanes and road holes he would have probably asked for more money. Now, it's too late. :)
Back in the flat we had to clean the kitchen first. But with what? There were dishes in the cupboard - but almost only used stuff. And the clean stuff was glued to everything. The table could be also cleaned for once. Luckily, we still had some toiletpaper. And one had filled water in bottles for us. Although, who knows for how long this had been here already? ... Well, one gets used to everything. We liked our dinner. A bit of red wine - this is not a bad life, is it?
After dinner I cooked 2 kilos of potatos. We wanted to have potato salad tomorrow. We'll see - Russian potato in the skin. I checked them every other minute. But obviously not good enough or not often enough. When I looked in the pot again, half of the potatoes had peeled off, some were just like mash. Well done, Nicole! I had to let them cool down and then make the best of a bad job.
Monday, September 15, 2003
Vladiwostock
Together with Al we went to town. We wanted to look for a washing salon. Our cloths needed a wash pretty badly. We knew the direction of where to find a washing salon, but couldn't find it anyway. We asked in a shop and they sent us to a hotel. Of course, we can bring our washing, they said. The porter showed us the laundry service and we said we would be back tomorrow. Great, one problem solved.
For lunch we went to Magic Burger. The Russian McDonalds. Either you love it or you hate it. We did the latter.
We strolled allong the harbor area. Suddenly it got to Nicole's and my mind that we could ask some skippers if they were going to Japan. Maybe they would take us along. But that was easier said than done. We were a little scared. It had to be in Russian. We pulled ouselves together and stepped abord an old and rusty ship. Our dictionary close at hand. We had already looked up all the words. And there we go! They did understand! Unfortunately they showed us to the ferry port. These cargo ships would not go to Japan.
Well, we went to the ferryport and asked at the first traveloffice. They wanted to have USD270. For that price we might as well fly to Japan! The next office wanted USD210. Already better. Since all good things are three, we tried another traveloffice behind the station. On the way we then found Hotel Moryak. It was in a totally different area than it had been described in the Lonely Planet book. And it was not at all cheaper than the one we were staying in now. The third ofice wanted to charge us USD 235 for the crossover to Japan. So we'll take the 2. ofice. We'll book the tickets on Friday, since the next ferry is only leaving on Saturday.
For dinner we went to another pizza place with Al. It was just as good as the one near the beach. No wonder! It was the same owner, as we found out later.
For lunch we went to Magic Burger. The Russian McDonalds. Either you love it or you hate it. We did the latter.
We strolled allong the harbor area. Suddenly it got to Nicole's and my mind that we could ask some skippers if they were going to Japan. Maybe they would take us along. But that was easier said than done. We were a little scared. It had to be in Russian. We pulled ouselves together and stepped abord an old and rusty ship. Our dictionary close at hand. We had already looked up all the words. And there we go! They did understand! Unfortunately they showed us to the ferry port. These cargo ships would not go to Japan.
Well, we went to the ferryport and asked at the first traveloffice. They wanted to have USD270. For that price we might as well fly to Japan! The next office wanted USD210. Already better. Since all good things are three, we tried another traveloffice behind the station. On the way we then found Hotel Moryak. It was in a totally different area than it had been described in the Lonely Planet book. And it was not at all cheaper than the one we were staying in now. The third ofice wanted to charge us USD 235 for the crossover to Japan. So we'll take the 2. ofice. We'll book the tickets on Friday, since the next ferry is only leaving on Saturday.
For dinner we went to another pizza place with Al. It was just as good as the one near the beach. No wonder! It was the same owner, as we found out later.
Sunday, September 14, 2003
Vladiwostock
For a change we could sleep long today. As we couldn't reach Tanja yesterday, we had no plans for today. Relaxed and in a slow mood we went to town. It was a lovely day, the sun was shining. We made use of that and went for a walk at the beach. Attention please: What we do see here is not the Pacific yet, it's just the Japan Sea. Did you get that now, Al?
Because it was a Sunday, we thought we had deserved a nice dinner. What about the Italian restaurant we'd been to yesterday? Would they recognized us again? In fact, we had had a shower and did wear clean clothes. ... It was a long evening in that restaurant. It was warm, bright ... what else do we need to write our diary?
We had just entered the hotel hall when we were attacked by someone. Help! Who is this? We were frightened to death, turned around and ... this just cannot be true! Who was standing in front of us with a big smile? Al! What a surprise. We were speechless. But what about his visum? He can apply for it later. Well, he could have thought about that earlier, couldn't he? He probably just had to be on his own for a day to realize that it's much more fun with us. Men!
Because it was a Sunday, we thought we had deserved a nice dinner. What about the Italian restaurant we'd been to yesterday? Would they recognized us again? In fact, we had had a shower and did wear clean clothes. ... It was a long evening in that restaurant. It was warm, bright ... what else do we need to write our diary?
We had just entered the hotel hall when we were attacked by someone. Help! Who is this? We were frightened to death, turned around and ... this just cannot be true! Who was standing in front of us with a big smile? Al! What a surprise. We were speechless. But what about his visum? He can apply for it later. Well, he could have thought about that earlier, couldn't he? He probably just had to be on his own for a day to realize that it's much more fun with us. Men!
Saturday, September 13, 2003
Vladiwostock
We had just fallen asleep as the conductor came in and turned on the light. The dumbass in our cabin had to get off at the next stop. He started packing, it was a constant rustling and rumble. Finally, he had left but then Tanja started. It was her turn to get off next. I (Ramona) just want to sleep! But not enough, the English woman from next door came over to say good-bye to Tanja and nearly sat down with her giant bum onto my head. I could only just rescue myself by turning my head.
Tanja didn't live far away from Wladiwostok so we said to meet up again on Sunday. She gave us her phone number and said good-bye. At 4.30am it was our turn to pack. At 5.20am we arrived at the station in Wladiwostik. It was quite warm, nearly like spring. We went to look for a place to stay, without our luggage though. We had heared that Hotel Moryak had the cheapest rooms. At that adress we did find a hotel but not the Moryak. Nobody spoke English nor German over here. The receptionist was ever so nice. She really gave her best to understand us. Talking with hands and feet we managed to get a room for 2 nights. We were so much looking forward to having a shower. It was about time as well. What is that lady doing now? Why is she putting a bucket of cold water into our room? We should find out very soon. One turn on the watertab gave the anser. No running water! Big disappointment fell uppon us. We went to bed and had a few hours sleep.
It was already after 1pm as we woke up again. had we been a little tired? We went for a walk through town. The first thing we passed was a photoshop. Great, we can download our pictures! in the late afternoon we came pass a pizzaplace. We were so hungry. We hadn't had anything to eat all day. Carefull we went inside. Too late, they saw us directly and welcomed us. It was a real noble restaurant. And look at us! Dirty cloths, filthy hair, not to mention our black fingernails. We did feel slightly embarrassed. But nobody seemed to care in here. We ate like queens.
Strengthened after the good food we went to the station to pick up our backpacks. We treated ourselves with taking a taxi back to the hotel. for the cost of only 100 Rubel = 3 Euro.
In our room there was a nice surprise waiting for us. Running water! Finally we could have a shower! Great! We tried to call Tanja as we planed to meet up tomorrow. Unfortunately, she must have given us the wrong number, as there was somebody else answering and they didn't know her. What a shame, we can't meet up now.
Tanja didn't live far away from Wladiwostok so we said to meet up again on Sunday. She gave us her phone number and said good-bye. At 4.30am it was our turn to pack. At 5.20am we arrived at the station in Wladiwostik. It was quite warm, nearly like spring. We went to look for a place to stay, without our luggage though. We had heared that Hotel Moryak had the cheapest rooms. At that adress we did find a hotel but not the Moryak. Nobody spoke English nor German over here. The receptionist was ever so nice. She really gave her best to understand us. Talking with hands and feet we managed to get a room for 2 nights. We were so much looking forward to having a shower. It was about time as well. What is that lady doing now? Why is she putting a bucket of cold water into our room? We should find out very soon. One turn on the watertab gave the anser. No running water! Big disappointment fell uppon us. We went to bed and had a few hours sleep.
It was already after 1pm as we woke up again. had we been a little tired? We went for a walk through town. The first thing we passed was a photoshop. Great, we can download our pictures! in the late afternoon we came pass a pizzaplace. We were so hungry. We hadn't had anything to eat all day. Carefull we went inside. Too late, they saw us directly and welcomed us. It was a real noble restaurant. And look at us! Dirty cloths, filthy hair, not to mention our black fingernails. We did feel slightly embarrassed. But nobody seemed to care in here. We ate like queens.
Strengthened after the good food we went to the station to pick up our backpacks. We treated ourselves with taking a taxi back to the hotel. for the cost of only 100 Rubel = 3 Euro.
In our room there was a nice surprise waiting for us. Running water! Finally we could have a shower! Great! We tried to call Tanja as we planed to meet up tomorrow. Unfortunately, she must have given us the wrong number, as there was somebody else answering and they didn't know her. What a shame, we can't meet up now.
Wednesday, September 10, 2003
Transsib
We spent most of the day in our smelly cabin. As we discovered the card games yesterday, we started playing again. There were so many different games. Uno, swim, mau mau, hahn. It was just so funny! Unless Nicole or I lost...
When we had longer stops at the stations, we went outside and joyned the locals. Of course, we got some goodies for dinner again. The sun shone the whole day, but at our laststop the temperature dropped down to only 6 degrees Celsius. Brrrr. At some time late, we got fed up with playing cards. Yes, this does exist aswell. But what could we do instead? Riddles! The best one came from Al: In an airlocked room is a lamp. Outside the room are three switches. How can you find out which of the 3 is the one for the lamp if you are only allowed to go into the room once? There are no windows in the room and you can't see the light gleaming from anywhere outside. Well? Have fun! Looking forward to you answers.
When we had longer stops at the stations, we went outside and joyned the locals. Of course, we got some goodies for dinner again. The sun shone the whole day, but at our laststop the temperature dropped down to only 6 degrees Celsius. Brrrr. At some time late, we got fed up with playing cards. Yes, this does exist aswell. But what could we do instead? Riddles! The best one came from Al: In an airlocked room is a lamp. Outside the room are three switches. How can you find out which of the 3 is the one for the lamp if you are only allowed to go into the room once? There are no windows in the room and you can't see the light gleaming from anywhere outside. Well? Have fun! Looking forward to you answers.
Irkutsk - Wladiwostock
At 3.30am we jumped on the train. Unfortunately, Al could only get a ticket for wagon 14. We had wagon 11. In our cabin two beds had been already occupied. Tanja, a young Russian, who studies German and another Russian guy. We embosomed her right from the beginning. Not only because she knows German. :) This, of course, though helped us a lot. She also asked this Russian guy whether he would like to swap beds with Al. But he dared to say no. Dumbass! He will have to feel that during the next days.
Al joined us again a bit later. When the others wanted to sleep, Al and I (Nicole) left the cabin and sat down in the aisle. We were both not tired yet. And it didn't take long and it was daybreak. Unfortunately though, we couldn't see the sunrise. Anyway, we just stared out of the windows. There wasn't much to see except for trees. We changed wagons as the windows there were on the other side. And now we could see Lake Baikal! Oh yes, I had almost forgotten about it. The train would pass 270km of the lake's coast. Who knows how much we had already missed? Ramona and I eventually had missed the border between Europe and Asia as well. Al and I thought about waking up Ramona. She had been so tired and already slept at the station. She certainly is happy to finally sleep in peace. We thought we would do something good for her ...
Actually, the gaze at Lake Baikal is not different as a gaze at any other lake. And still this is Lake Baikal - somehow special. However, 270 m is a long time. I got tired more and more and I almost fell asleep. But I didn't want to go to bed. Not as long as one can see the lake. Typical Nicole! I had to stay until 8.30am. Only then I was "allowed" to go to sleep. When I came to our cabin, Ramona had already been awake. I briefly mentioned the journey passing the lake. And only then she thought about that, too. It would have been her highlight and again she had slept. She was really angry about herself. If Al and I had only known...
Lateron, we all played cards. All means Tanja, Ramona, Al and I. It was obvious that the dumbass was not allowed to join. And it was also obvious that we couldn't play cards without drinking Vodka. But this probably was only fun for Al and Tanja. That is to say that Ramona and I had even more problems to lose a game than when being sober. And one who knows us ... We both got really snappish and every time the other one lost we were so happy like little children. Did we lose though, we just did not want to realize it. It all was just so unfair!
Al joined us again a bit later. When the others wanted to sleep, Al and I (Nicole) left the cabin and sat down in the aisle. We were both not tired yet. And it didn't take long and it was daybreak. Unfortunately though, we couldn't see the sunrise. Anyway, we just stared out of the windows. There wasn't much to see except for trees. We changed wagons as the windows there were on the other side. And now we could see Lake Baikal! Oh yes, I had almost forgotten about it. The train would pass 270km of the lake's coast. Who knows how much we had already missed? Ramona and I eventually had missed the border between Europe and Asia as well. Al and I thought about waking up Ramona. She had been so tired and already slept at the station. She certainly is happy to finally sleep in peace. We thought we would do something good for her ...
Actually, the gaze at Lake Baikal is not different as a gaze at any other lake. And still this is Lake Baikal - somehow special. However, 270 m is a long time. I got tired more and more and I almost fell asleep. But I didn't want to go to bed. Not as long as one can see the lake. Typical Nicole! I had to stay until 8.30am. Only then I was "allowed" to go to sleep. When I came to our cabin, Ramona had already been awake. I briefly mentioned the journey passing the lake. And only then she thought about that, too. It would have been her highlight and again she had slept. She was really angry about herself. If Al and I had only known...
Lateron, we all played cards. All means Tanja, Ramona, Al and I. It was obvious that the dumbass was not allowed to join. And it was also obvious that we couldn't play cards without drinking Vodka. But this probably was only fun for Al and Tanja. That is to say that Ramona and I had even more problems to lose a game than when being sober. And one who knows us ... We both got really snappish and every time the other one lost we were so happy like little children. Did we lose though, we just did not want to realize it. It all was just so unfair!
Tuesday, September 09, 2003
Khuzir - Irkutsk
Today we were to go back to Irkutsk to take the Transsib to Wladiwostok. We said good-bye to Nikita. We had had just enough money to pay our gut. Now we didn't have a penny left. Perfect calculation!
The minivan was already waiting for us. The driver helped us and put our backpacks onto the back two seats. We were only three passengers. Great, maybe we could sleep a little then. But no. At the next couple of stops more and more people came in and soon the van was full. Travelling by bus was much more confortable than by that tiny cart.
At 3pm we arrived at the bus station in Irkutsk. Unfortunately, this was the final destination instead of the train station. We put on our heavy rucksacks and were just about to stroll of as the driver stopped us and asked for money. He wanted us to pay him. Pay?! Rubbish, we had already paid the tickets. But he didn't want them. Only cash. Too bad, we don't have any more. We explained to him that we had gotten the tickets from Olchon to Irkutsk like that, but why were we explaining all this? He didn't understand us anyway. Then an English speaking woman appeared and helped us. The only opportunity to get to money was to exchange the tickets back. Ater a little discussion it was done. I (Ramona) gave the money to the driver and what did he say? He wanted us to pay two tickets each because our backpacks were so big. Was he kidding!? It wasn't our fault that he put them onto the backseats and not into the trunk underneath. I told him to sort that out with Nikita as we don't have any more money left. And finally he gave up. Let's go quickly now, before he changes his mind.
We went direction to the train station and came to the internet cafe where we wanted to meet up with Al. So, we first went in here. We had another look into our purses and luckily we found just enough to pay the internet. Just as good that the bus driver didn't know. We had just logged on as Al arrived. Good timing! Nicole had problems again with her email account at AOL. She couldn't get in. I still had some mails to answer and so Nicole and Al left for the station to lock our lugage. They were only gone for 10 min. as I opened a mail from Stein-Hugo from Gjesvaer. Oh no! What a terrible message! Svein-Thore, the guy who drove us from Gjesvaer to Rovaniemi with his car, had died. That couldn't be! He wasn't old at all! It said that his heart just stopped beating. As Nicole got back we sent an email back in sorrow. We were so close to Wladiwostok now and were going to send him the postcard which we had to promise him so often. Well, maybe it shouldn't be.
Al had also got a ticket for tonights train, but he will leave us again 15 hours before Wladiwostok, to go to Mongolia. Our train was only at 3.50am tonight, so there was lot's of time to spend. We went to a beer tent for the evening which had an open air disco. It was so funny to watch the kids. They were dressed and danced like we did in Germany 15 years ago.
The minivan was already waiting for us. The driver helped us and put our backpacks onto the back two seats. We were only three passengers. Great, maybe we could sleep a little then. But no. At the next couple of stops more and more people came in and soon the van was full. Travelling by bus was much more confortable than by that tiny cart.
At 3pm we arrived at the bus station in Irkutsk. Unfortunately, this was the final destination instead of the train station. We put on our heavy rucksacks and were just about to stroll of as the driver stopped us and asked for money. He wanted us to pay him. Pay?! Rubbish, we had already paid the tickets. But he didn't want them. Only cash. Too bad, we don't have any more. We explained to him that we had gotten the tickets from Olchon to Irkutsk like that, but why were we explaining all this? He didn't understand us anyway. Then an English speaking woman appeared and helped us. The only opportunity to get to money was to exchange the tickets back. Ater a little discussion it was done. I (Ramona) gave the money to the driver and what did he say? He wanted us to pay two tickets each because our backpacks were so big. Was he kidding!? It wasn't our fault that he put them onto the backseats and not into the trunk underneath. I told him to sort that out with Nikita as we don't have any more money left. And finally he gave up. Let's go quickly now, before he changes his mind.
We went direction to the train station and came to the internet cafe where we wanted to meet up with Al. So, we first went in here. We had another look into our purses and luckily we found just enough to pay the internet. Just as good that the bus driver didn't know. We had just logged on as Al arrived. Good timing! Nicole had problems again with her email account at AOL. She couldn't get in. I still had some mails to answer and so Nicole and Al left for the station to lock our lugage. They were only gone for 10 min. as I opened a mail from Stein-Hugo from Gjesvaer. Oh no! What a terrible message! Svein-Thore, the guy who drove us from Gjesvaer to Rovaniemi with his car, had died. That couldn't be! He wasn't old at all! It said that his heart just stopped beating. As Nicole got back we sent an email back in sorrow. We were so close to Wladiwostok now and were going to send him the postcard which we had to promise him so often. Well, maybe it shouldn't be.
Al had also got a ticket for tonights train, but he will leave us again 15 hours before Wladiwostok, to go to Mongolia. Our train was only at 3.50am tonight, so there was lot's of time to spend. We went to a beer tent for the evening which had an open air disco. It was so funny to watch the kids. They were dressed and danced like we did in Germany 15 years ago.
Monday, September 08, 2003
Khuzir
We were lucky. Already at 10.30am the trip to the south of the island could start. Together with Gregory and two Hungarians. Al had already left for Irkutsk and we'll follow him tomorrow.
We first drove to a small lake which had been cut from the rest of Lake Baikal through a dune - all by nature. This small lake is very famous for swimming during summer and in autumn/winter the fishes come here. Gregory also told us about the different winds around the lake. Where are trees on the island, there's hardly no wind. And during winter time, when the whole lake is covered by ice there is no snow either. All gone with the wind.
At the next stop we learned why the lake is so clear. There are millions of 0.1mm small crabs which eat everything. Would one i.e. throw a dead body in the lake, nothing would be left of it after a couple of days. The water of the lake, therefore, is almost like distilled water with only 0.001g/l salt in it. It is true that one can drink the water but it wouldn't be healthy drinking it all the time as
there are no mineral nutrients in it.
Lateron, Gregory told us about a beautiful birch standing all on its own on a huge field. There used to live a Shaman who had said shortly before his death that he would come back as a tree. And after his death this birch grew at the same place where he had lived. Whether the story is true or not, Gregory couldn't tell us.
We then drove further to the graves of the aboriginees. Nowadays, people throw coins at this place as it's said to be holy.
We also walked to the round houses of the aboriginees. One can still see the living parts because of some stone walls. Everywhere we could smell thyme. It grows everywhere. But why the hell do we get only dill added to every single dish every single day?
At the highest point of the island we could see both the small and the big lake. An impressing picture. It's difficult to imagine how huge this lake is. One often doesn't see land at the horizon so one could think to see the ocean. But still it's "only" a lake.
It was soon time for our picknick. For a change we had fish. Omul, as at least once a day. The omul only lives in Lake Baikal. Thus, I (Nicole) had to eat it. An omul can get up to 25 years but the ones we were served were only nine to twelve years old. I actually liked the grilled fish. If only there wasn't that hard job with the fishbones to be done.
During lunch, Gregory told us loads about himself, the life on Olchon, their rubbish problem, toilets - biotoilet or shithouse? - his years in Germany, etc. All in all a very interesting and informing day.
Back in the holiday resort Ramona and I went to the banja again. Finally, we got warm again as we had been pretty cold during the day. It had been only 10 degrees Celsius and it was so windy. Later, we both had deserved again a healing massage. And our money just last for that.
We first drove to a small lake which had been cut from the rest of Lake Baikal through a dune - all by nature. This small lake is very famous for swimming during summer and in autumn/winter the fishes come here. Gregory also told us about the different winds around the lake. Where are trees on the island, there's hardly no wind. And during winter time, when the whole lake is covered by ice there is no snow either. All gone with the wind.
At the next stop we learned why the lake is so clear. There are millions of 0.1mm small crabs which eat everything. Would one i.e. throw a dead body in the lake, nothing would be left of it after a couple of days. The water of the lake, therefore, is almost like distilled water with only 0.001g/l salt in it. It is true that one can drink the water but it wouldn't be healthy drinking it all the time as
there are no mineral nutrients in it.
Lateron, Gregory told us about a beautiful birch standing all on its own on a huge field. There used to live a Shaman who had said shortly before his death that he would come back as a tree. And after his death this birch grew at the same place where he had lived. Whether the story is true or not, Gregory couldn't tell us.
We then drove further to the graves of the aboriginees. Nowadays, people throw coins at this place as it's said to be holy.
We also walked to the round houses of the aboriginees. One can still see the living parts because of some stone walls. Everywhere we could smell thyme. It grows everywhere. But why the hell do we get only dill added to every single dish every single day?
At the highest point of the island we could see both the small and the big lake. An impressing picture. It's difficult to imagine how huge this lake is. One often doesn't see land at the horizon so one could think to see the ocean. But still it's "only" a lake.
It was soon time for our picknick. For a change we had fish. Omul, as at least once a day. The omul only lives in Lake Baikal. Thus, I (Nicole) had to eat it. An omul can get up to 25 years but the ones we were served were only nine to twelve years old. I actually liked the grilled fish. If only there wasn't that hard job with the fishbones to be done.
During lunch, Gregory told us loads about himself, the life on Olchon, their rubbish problem, toilets - biotoilet or shithouse? - his years in Germany, etc. All in all a very interesting and informing day.
Back in the holiday resort Ramona and I went to the banja again. Finally, we got warm again as we had been pretty cold during the day. It had been only 10 degrees Celsius and it was so windy. Later, we both had deserved again a healing massage. And our money just last for that.
Sunday, September 07, 2003
Khuzir
After breakfast Gregory, a Russian tourguide speaking perfectly German, offered us a big tour in the south of the island. Ramona and I were all for it right away. Eventually, one would tell us something about Lake Baikal and the island - even in German. But there was a hook. There weren't enough people yet to do this trip. Thus, we had to wait. Nothing new though for us.
Al in the meantime had found out that there is only a bus to Irkutsk on Sundays and Wednesdays. How come? We already had a bus ticket for Tuesday. Now, do we have to sort this out as well? We asked Gregory who offered us to solve our problem with Nikita. Fantastic! With regard to the tour though it had to be postponed to tomorrow. We could only hope that there will be enough people then.
But for a change a day without plans is great, too in order to write our diaries and website reports. When Al joined us though all our good resolutions had gone.
In the late afternoon we went to the banja, the Russian sauna, together with Al. In front of the banja a film crew shot a scene. Well ... hadn't we seen them already yesterday at the beach? Is there a movie star? Maybe Brad Pitt? Or maybe we'll be the future movie stars? In any case, the Russian sauna is still heated by fire. There was a woman responsible for always putting wood on it. She had also always started to heat the sauna 2 hours ago. The heat was boiling. Sweat was just running down our skins. Very relaxing! When we were just outside to chill out, the door opened. A good-looking man entered holding a big bowl in his hands. What's in there? That smells good. Well, that's the yeast dough. We couldn't resist, we had to try it. But the man put on some cling film - what a shame! - and took the bowl into the hot banja. There, the yeast dough could grow.
After dinner we originally wanted to write. Originally! But there were these four young Germans who had done the yeast dough. Now, the two men prepared it: Panfritas, a Chilene national dish. There had been so many that we all were allowed to have some. Just with cheese or with chocolate. Delicious! From the Germans we also learned about the film team: They had been from ZDF! In Germany, they were looking for two families to be abandonned in the middle of Sibiria for four months. They are supposed to live there during the Sibirian winter, not knowing any Russian at all. But that's just a joke! In Khuzir, there are so many tourists, above all Germans - even during winter time. And in addition to that there's a Polish man in the film team knowing perfectly Russian and German. All this done for ZDF? We wouldn't have been surprised if it was for RTL2...
The rest of the evening Al, Ramona and I spent in our hat - with vodka in front of the lit oven (we by now know how to light the fire).
Al in the meantime had found out that there is only a bus to Irkutsk on Sundays and Wednesdays. How come? We already had a bus ticket for Tuesday. Now, do we have to sort this out as well? We asked Gregory who offered us to solve our problem with Nikita. Fantastic! With regard to the tour though it had to be postponed to tomorrow. We could only hope that there will be enough people then.
But for a change a day without plans is great, too in order to write our diaries and website reports. When Al joined us though all our good resolutions had gone.
In the late afternoon we went to the banja, the Russian sauna, together with Al. In front of the banja a film crew shot a scene. Well ... hadn't we seen them already yesterday at the beach? Is there a movie star? Maybe Brad Pitt? Or maybe we'll be the future movie stars? In any case, the Russian sauna is still heated by fire. There was a woman responsible for always putting wood on it. She had also always started to heat the sauna 2 hours ago. The heat was boiling. Sweat was just running down our skins. Very relaxing! When we were just outside to chill out, the door opened. A good-looking man entered holding a big bowl in his hands. What's in there? That smells good. Well, that's the yeast dough. We couldn't resist, we had to try it. But the man put on some cling film - what a shame! - and took the bowl into the hot banja. There, the yeast dough could grow.
After dinner we originally wanted to write. Originally! But there were these four young Germans who had done the yeast dough. Now, the two men prepared it: Panfritas, a Chilene national dish. There had been so many that we all were allowed to have some. Just with cheese or with chocolate. Delicious! From the Germans we also learned about the film team: They had been from ZDF! In Germany, they were looking for two families to be abandonned in the middle of Sibiria for four months. They are supposed to live there during the Sibirian winter, not knowing any Russian at all. But that's just a joke! In Khuzir, there are so many tourists, above all Germans - even during winter time. And in addition to that there's a Polish man in the film team knowing perfectly Russian and German. All this done for ZDF? We wouldn't have been surprised if it was for RTL2...
The rest of the evening Al, Ramona and I spent in our hat - with vodka in front of the lit oven (we by now know how to light the fire).
Saturday, September 06, 2003
Khuzir
Today we had a big excursion on our plan to the north of the Island. Up with a boat and down by bus. Al and the two Norwegians were joining us. Because it was only a small boat, we had to be split into two groups. Nicole, Al and me were to go by boat first and Laila and Frode by bus. In the north of the island we would swap, later this afternoon. Said and done hours later.
At 11.30am we started the trip. It was quite windy and chilly on the boat but we were prepared and had wrapped up in thick cloths. We went along the coast and it was marvellous! White sand beaches, forests and high cliffs. At one group of cliffs, the 3 brothers, we halted to climp up. It was about 200m high. Exellent view! We went further round the northest point of the island which is also called "Northcape" like in Norway. Here the two seas of Lake Baikal float together. The small and the big sea. A few kilometers further out there is the deepest spot in Lake Baikal: 1637m deep. The deepest lake in the whole world! The water was so clear, you could easily look down 10-20m. When we had passed the cape, the water got much rougher. Just as if it were really two different seas.
We arrived at the next village Uzury where we were supposed to swap with the others. It took another hour until they came. Five German girls and a boy were with them. They wanted to hike back with their backpacks in about four days. Unfortunately, they didn't take any food with them. They thought there would be a supermarket here. Too bad! There was none. And the bus even stopped at a shop on the way to here. Now the six were standing there asking us for bisquits and sweets. Oh dear, they really have to learn a lot still.
For lunch we had fishsoup. What else?! As we wanted to get on our way, the tourguides gave the rest of the food to the Germans. Only now it turned out that they didn't even have a map of the island with them. How on earth did they want to find the 70 km way back to Khuzir?! They didn't even think about taking water with them. How naive! Good luck to them.
We swappd places with Frode and Laila. They went into the boat and we in the bus. We went through a valley and then a forest and down to the beach Ulan-Hushin-Bay where in the early days there had been a concentration camp. It looked like a desert. The way to here was a catastrophy. It was not a road we drove on but huge cracks in the earth. Much worse than in the middle of the island. The driver didn't make it any better, he was speeding like a racer. Back in Khuzir we stopped at the supermarket to get some more red wine and Vodka.
After dinner a massage woman came to the camp and offered her service. Oh yes! That was nice! And it nearly cost nothing. Only 4 Euro for 20 Min. It was only now that it occured to us that we hadn't changed any more money before coming to the island. Will the little money we have left be enough to pay everything? Credit card was useless over here and there was no bank neither an ATM machine. Well, what the heck! We'll cope with this when the time comes.
Just in thime for the fire Frode and Laila arrived. They also brought a bottle of wine. The party can begin! Four bottles of red wine and one bottle of Vodka. Tonight we started the fire ourselves.
At 11.30am we started the trip. It was quite windy and chilly on the boat but we were prepared and had wrapped up in thick cloths. We went along the coast and it was marvellous! White sand beaches, forests and high cliffs. At one group of cliffs, the 3 brothers, we halted to climp up. It was about 200m high. Exellent view! We went further round the northest point of the island which is also called "Northcape" like in Norway. Here the two seas of Lake Baikal float together. The small and the big sea. A few kilometers further out there is the deepest spot in Lake Baikal: 1637m deep. The deepest lake in the whole world! The water was so clear, you could easily look down 10-20m. When we had passed the cape, the water got much rougher. Just as if it were really two different seas.
We arrived at the next village Uzury where we were supposed to swap with the others. It took another hour until they came. Five German girls and a boy were with them. They wanted to hike back with their backpacks in about four days. Unfortunately, they didn't take any food with them. They thought there would be a supermarket here. Too bad! There was none. And the bus even stopped at a shop on the way to here. Now the six were standing there asking us for bisquits and sweets. Oh dear, they really have to learn a lot still.
For lunch we had fishsoup. What else?! As we wanted to get on our way, the tourguides gave the rest of the food to the Germans. Only now it turned out that they didn't even have a map of the island with them. How on earth did they want to find the 70 km way back to Khuzir?! They didn't even think about taking water with them. How naive! Good luck to them.
We swappd places with Frode and Laila. They went into the boat and we in the bus. We went through a valley and then a forest and down to the beach Ulan-Hushin-Bay where in the early days there had been a concentration camp. It looked like a desert. The way to here was a catastrophy. It was not a road we drove on but huge cracks in the earth. Much worse than in the middle of the island. The driver didn't make it any better, he was speeding like a racer. Back in Khuzir we stopped at the supermarket to get some more red wine and Vodka.
After dinner a massage woman came to the camp and offered her service. Oh yes! That was nice! And it nearly cost nothing. Only 4 Euro for 20 Min. It was only now that it occured to us that we hadn't changed any more money before coming to the island. Will the little money we have left be enough to pay everything? Credit card was useless over here and there was no bank neither an ATM machine. Well, what the heck! We'll cope with this when the time comes.
Just in thime for the fire Frode and Laila arrived. They also brought a bottle of wine. The party can begin! Four bottles of red wine and one bottle of Vodka. Tonight we started the fire ourselves.
Friday, September 05, 2003
Khuzir
At 10am there was a meeting in the cantine. Nikita should have told us what excursions are on the list for today. But even though all tourists had been there, nothing happened. At 11am still nothing. Is that the Russian punctuality everybody talks about? Finally, at 1.30am a bus arrived. Together with 4 Russians and a Norwegian couple we entered it. The trip was to the closer environment of Khuzir, through forests, mountains and steppe, with gophers. Originally, there was supposed to be an English speaking guide. But not today! Luckily, two of the Russians did translate what the driver had said.
For lunch we had fish soup, with complete fishes. It was served with tea and the Russians opened a bottle of vodka. They told us all about their vodka traditions - one needs to put the fingers in the cup and splash the drips on the table cloth before drinking the vodka - but did not even think of offering us a sip. We will not forget that.
After dinner Nicole and Al went to the supermarket to get some more drinks. Red wine and Vodka. The wine we emptied on the terrasse and then Al found the lit fire place, which should normally be burning every evening at 10pm. We were the only ones sitting by the fire but not for long. 2 of the Rusians, who had been with us on the excursion today, joined us. Over was the silence. Helena and Marc talked without a break. And all over sudden we thought we were dreaming! Al offered some Vodka to them. How could he? And "they" preferred to spread their Vodka arround at lunch time instead of sharing it with us! But the best was yet to come! Al asked us if we could give them our drinking mugs so he could serve the Vodka. Our prescious drinking mugs. But what could we do? It was Al who paid the Vodka. The Russians even dared to ask for more once they had finished the first cup. They won't finish our whole bottle, will they? After the 2 had left, silence came back to the fireplace.
The sky was so clear, one could even see Mars and the Milkyway.
For lunch we had fish soup, with complete fishes. It was served with tea and the Russians opened a bottle of vodka. They told us all about their vodka traditions - one needs to put the fingers in the cup and splash the drips on the table cloth before drinking the vodka - but did not even think of offering us a sip. We will not forget that.
After dinner Nicole and Al went to the supermarket to get some more drinks. Red wine and Vodka. The wine we emptied on the terrasse and then Al found the lit fire place, which should normally be burning every evening at 10pm. We were the only ones sitting by the fire but not for long. 2 of the Rusians, who had been with us on the excursion today, joined us. Over was the silence. Helena and Marc talked without a break. And all over sudden we thought we were dreaming! Al offered some Vodka to them. How could he? And "they" preferred to spread their Vodka arround at lunch time instead of sharing it with us! But the best was yet to come! Al asked us if we could give them our drinking mugs so he could serve the Vodka. Our prescious drinking mugs. But what could we do? It was Al who paid the Vodka. The Russians even dared to ask for more once they had finished the first cup. They won't finish our whole bottle, will they? After the 2 had left, silence came back to the fireplace.
The sky was so clear, one could even see Mars and the Milkyway.
Thursday, September 04, 2003
Irkutsk - Olchon (Lake Baikal)
It had been about 5am when I (Nicole) woke up because of my stomach. I needed to go to the loo. Quick! But the train had stopped at a station and thus the toilet was closed. For how long? I had put on my clothes to be ready when the train left. To me one minute was like an hour. Only after 20 minutes the train had started to move again. Luckily, the toilet got opened right away. It hurt so much but at the same time it was good to let all that shit out of me. One didn't let me in peace though. Someone knocked at the door already for the second time. I got off and just hoped that he got his job done quickly. I was lucky but the second time for me was even worse. Sweat was running down my skin, I could see how I changed colours. I wasn't even strong enough to crouch over the toilet. I had to sit down - no matter how disgusting it was. I had no choice. Then, it knocked at the door again. Not yet. Please! I tried to put on my trousers again. Now I had to pull myself together. I went out again and sat down at a seat in the aisle. When the lady came back she realised that something was wrong with me and offered to help. My fingers started to cramp and I couldn't move my underarms anymore. The lady massaged my fingers and hands and gave me a cup of black tea with lots of sugar. But I wasn't even able to hold the cup. So she had to feed me. Already with the first sip I felt that my stomach got better and after a short while the cramps stopped. The woman wanted to call a doctor. A doctor? Not yet only after two months of travelling. I felt better already. I put the tablets in my pocket the conductor had given me. Who knows what that had been? I just had another cup of black tea and went to bed in order to get some sleep. Ramona hadn't realized what happened to me. And this was good. I didn't want to wake her up. She would have only worried about me. And like this at least one of us had slept.
At 9.35am we arrived in Irkutsk. Our worries that no-one would be there for us proved to be needless. The German speaking Russian colleague of Mrs. Knop welcame us and gave us our bus and train tickets to Vladiwostok. She also gave us some explanations and presented us to a guy who was supposed to drive us to Olchon with his car. And again we were on the road.
Nicole had laid down on the back seat and tried to get her stomach under control. The car was more than old and quite small. Alexander but our two backpacks in the teeny-weeny car boot. Don't you dare to break something! There was a lot of traffic in town and the streets and houses didn't look inviting. Everything dirty, grey and sad. If Irkutsk is worth a sight-seeing tour? In front of us was a trip of 320km. Streets had been very bad and therefore we couldn't think of any sleep. The further we got to the north, the further away was one village from another. These were only wooden houses, partly very wrecked. It seems that only in big cities there are stone houses. The automatic window opener seemed to be broken as the windows had been open all the time. And the heating blew like mad. But only on my feet. It was a wonder that the shoes didn't melt. At 2pm we reached the ferry harbour. We had moved quite fast - and this with that cart. There was only one ferry from here to Olchon, the largest island of Lake Baikal. Therefore, we had to wait 45 minutes until we could take the ferry. What was funny was that the cars had to drive off the ferry backwards. What a drama! If
people here have a driving license at all? The journey continued - this time on even worse streets. It was almost a chivvy. With 110 km/h we rushed over huge road holes. Will we survive this? The driver wanted to catch the next ferry to the mainland which was one hour later.
He took us to Nikita in Khuzir, the biggest city of Olchon where 1,500 people live. Nikita, a former European Champion in table tennis, had built a holiday resort which is known not only on the island. Originally, we wanted to camp but the oven in the hut was irresistible. We even had our private toilet, outside the hut. It was alive! Our bathroom - also outside - was a bucket of cold water with a bowl. Included in the price for the hut were three meals. Although it had been already after 5pm we were served lunch.
After dinner which we had only 2 hours later we wanted to go to the one and only pub in town - together with Al, an English man, we got to know - in order to meet other travellers who Al had known already. We quickly rushed to our hut. What was that? Firewood in front of our door. Very nice! When we put it inside the wood woman appeared to help us. That's what we thought. She put all the wood in the oven and lit the fire with a piece of paper. All our tries to keep her from doing so failed. Hopefully the fire will still burn when we are back.
Unfortunately, the pub was closed. Thus, we bought the alcohol in a shop and had our drinks on the street. At 00.30am we came back to our hut. No fire anymore. We did our best to light the fire again - without success.
At 9.35am we arrived in Irkutsk. Our worries that no-one would be there for us proved to be needless. The German speaking Russian colleague of Mrs. Knop welcame us and gave us our bus and train tickets to Vladiwostok. She also gave us some explanations and presented us to a guy who was supposed to drive us to Olchon with his car. And again we were on the road.
Nicole had laid down on the back seat and tried to get her stomach under control. The car was more than old and quite small. Alexander but our two backpacks in the teeny-weeny car boot. Don't you dare to break something! There was a lot of traffic in town and the streets and houses didn't look inviting. Everything dirty, grey and sad. If Irkutsk is worth a sight-seeing tour? In front of us was a trip of 320km. Streets had been very bad and therefore we couldn't think of any sleep. The further we got to the north, the further away was one village from another. These were only wooden houses, partly very wrecked. It seems that only in big cities there are stone houses. The automatic window opener seemed to be broken as the windows had been open all the time. And the heating blew like mad. But only on my feet. It was a wonder that the shoes didn't melt. At 2pm we reached the ferry harbour. We had moved quite fast - and this with that cart. There was only one ferry from here to Olchon, the largest island of Lake Baikal. Therefore, we had to wait 45 minutes until we could take the ferry. What was funny was that the cars had to drive off the ferry backwards. What a drama! If
people here have a driving license at all? The journey continued - this time on even worse streets. It was almost a chivvy. With 110 km/h we rushed over huge road holes. Will we survive this? The driver wanted to catch the next ferry to the mainland which was one hour later.
He took us to Nikita in Khuzir, the biggest city of Olchon where 1,500 people live. Nikita, a former European Champion in table tennis, had built a holiday resort which is known not only on the island. Originally, we wanted to camp but the oven in the hut was irresistible. We even had our private toilet, outside the hut. It was alive! Our bathroom - also outside - was a bucket of cold water with a bowl. Included in the price for the hut were three meals. Although it had been already after 5pm we were served lunch.
After dinner which we had only 2 hours later we wanted to go to the one and only pub in town - together with Al, an English man, we got to know - in order to meet other travellers who Al had known already. We quickly rushed to our hut. What was that? Firewood in front of our door. Very nice! When we put it inside the wood woman appeared to help us. That's what we thought. She put all the wood in the oven and lit the fire with a piece of paper. All our tries to keep her from doing so failed. Hopefully the fire will still burn when we are back.
Unfortunately, the pub was closed. Thus, we bought the alcohol in a shop and had our drinks on the street. At 00.30am we came back to our hut. No fire anymore. We did our best to light the fire again - without success.
Wednesday, September 03, 2003
Birjusa - Irkutsk
Today, on our program we had a hike through the Taiga. At 12.15pm we started. Victuals for our lunch had been carried by Alexej and Tanja. Over the bridge at the village's end, then across the forest. Partly, it was quite boggy and we had to be careful not to stumble. There was no way in this part of the forest. We only followed Alexej and Tanja. Hopefully they will know where they are going.
We had hardly made it out of the labyrinth, when we were attacked by mosquitos. Tanja gave us a repellent against them but it only helps until one sweatens. Well, sun and fleece jacket? It was obvious how long it will take. When we had come to the river Birjusa we saw a bag swimming in it. It was caught up in a trunk. What would that be? A bag full of money? A skull? Or just rubbish? Alexej tried to balance over the trunk to the bag. But he soon gave up. Of course, it again had to be the woman's turn. Tanja took off her shoes and socks and climbed on the trunk. Briskly she went to the bag. It was obstinately attached to the trunk. Tanja got it but directly let it go again. She had seen what was in there. Was it really a skull? No, but the gaze was not much nicer. Someone in fact seemed to have drowned a whelp.
After this exciting interlude we went a bit further until Alexej and Tanja had found us a place for our picknick. In an instant Tanja had brought some wood and loppings and lightened the fire. We had shashlick spits. After this refreshment we went back home. Although there are supposed to be a lot of wild animals we have only seen mosquitos and frogs. Oh yes, and a little striped squirrel.
At 9.45pm the whole family - Alexej, Tanja and son Denis, took us to the train station. It was time to say good-bye. The two days in Birjusa had been really interesting. We got a deeper impression of the Siberian life and had home grown, home made food to eat. We even learned some more Russian. If our Russian was only as good as Alexej's German. He had taught himself German. Well, many thanks to the whole family!
In our train to Irkutsk we shared our cabin with a Russian couple. The whole cabin stank from the man's aftershave. The conductor came to get our tickets. And this time we didn't have to pay for the blankets. Why that? Well, it was included in our ticket, she explained to us. So why did we pay Rub 41 the last time? We should have read the small print!
Let's have a look at the restaurant now. If we find it this time? We had passed it before getting on the train. We left our cabin. 1 wagon, 2, 3 ... then the end again. What's going on? But then the conductor explained it to us. We're just so stupid. To the restaurant it's the other direction. Was that the reason why we didn't find the restaurant the last time? So, when we finally got to the restaurant, it was closed. But Nicole was still allowed to buy a bottle of coke.
We had hardly made it out of the labyrinth, when we were attacked by mosquitos. Tanja gave us a repellent against them but it only helps until one sweatens. Well, sun and fleece jacket? It was obvious how long it will take. When we had come to the river Birjusa we saw a bag swimming in it. It was caught up in a trunk. What would that be? A bag full of money? A skull? Or just rubbish? Alexej tried to balance over the trunk to the bag. But he soon gave up. Of course, it again had to be the woman's turn. Tanja took off her shoes and socks and climbed on the trunk. Briskly she went to the bag. It was obstinately attached to the trunk. Tanja got it but directly let it go again. She had seen what was in there. Was it really a skull? No, but the gaze was not much nicer. Someone in fact seemed to have drowned a whelp.
After this exciting interlude we went a bit further until Alexej and Tanja had found us a place for our picknick. In an instant Tanja had brought some wood and loppings and lightened the fire. We had shashlick spits. After this refreshment we went back home. Although there are supposed to be a lot of wild animals we have only seen mosquitos and frogs. Oh yes, and a little striped squirrel.
At 9.45pm the whole family - Alexej, Tanja and son Denis, took us to the train station. It was time to say good-bye. The two days in Birjusa had been really interesting. We got a deeper impression of the Siberian life and had home grown, home made food to eat. We even learned some more Russian. If our Russian was only as good as Alexej's German. He had taught himself German. Well, many thanks to the whole family!
In our train to Irkutsk we shared our cabin with a Russian couple. The whole cabin stank from the man's aftershave. The conductor came to get our tickets. And this time we didn't have to pay for the blankets. Why that? Well, it was included in our ticket, she explained to us. So why did we pay Rub 41 the last time? We should have read the small print!
Let's have a look at the restaurant now. If we find it this time? We had passed it before getting on the train. We left our cabin. 1 wagon, 2, 3 ... then the end again. What's going on? But then the conductor explained it to us. We're just so stupid. To the restaurant it's the other direction. Was that the reason why we didn't find the restaurant the last time? So, when we finally got to the restaurant, it was closed. But Nicole was still allowed to buy a bottle of coke.
Tuesday, September 02, 2003
Birjusa
Originally, breakfast was supposed to be at 9am. But we were lucky. Alexej only called us at 10.15am. Thus, we could stay in bed a bit longer. We thought either Alexej or Tanja would tell us what to do in Birjusa but instead Tanja gave us a travel diary of a German. We therefore spent almost the whole afternoon reading it. It was interesting and funny to read as he had often experienced the same as us. (--> tap/Transsib).
Inbetween, we walked through Birjusa. The houses are all built of wood and each had a gib garden in which they plant fruits and vegetables. Cabbage as huge as medicine balls. Flowers in all colours. On the street we say cows, dogs, cats, chicken, goats ... one could just say Birjusa is a big farm. It was impressing to see how simple people can live and be happy.
Inbetween, we walked through Birjusa. The houses are all built of wood and each had a gib garden in which they plant fruits and vegetables. Cabbage as huge as medicine balls. Flowers in all colours. On the street we say cows, dogs, cats, chicken, goats ... one could just say Birjusa is a big farm. It was impressing to see how simple people can live and be happy.
Monday, September 01, 2003
Transsib - Birjusa
Last night was a bit better than the others. Our body seemed to get used to riding the train. Or was it thanks to our sport exercices?
It was time to get the problem with our missing tickets solved. We quickly looked up some more Russian words and then took the Russian book to go to the conductor. It was all easier than expected. A bit of German, a bit of Russian and we already had our tickets back. We are just geniuses!
At 10.20pm we arrived in Taischet. It rained. Alexej, who picked us up, welcame us in German. We were supposed to stay with him and his wife Tanja for the next two days. In a very small typical Siberian village called Birjusa. No tourists near and far.
After dinner we tried the Russian sauna. What's that? A bathroom. A huge boiler with water, heated by fire and a tub with cold water. 3 big bowls and a small one. One pours hot water in the big bowl and takes cold water with the small bowl and adds it to the hot water. And then just wash. What about the hair? These as well. There was no shower, no sink, not to mention floating water or a toilet. The toilet was at the end of the garden. A small shed with wooden floor. A 25cm hole - everything had to go through that.
We were still awake for a long time in our room. At 5am we went to bed. At 5.30am we switched off the light. But we were still not tired. At 6am the cock crowed. One moaned more than the other. Then we could only laugh. I (Ramona) said:"Now we lay here and stare at the ceiling." and Nicole only answered "Not me. I've closed my eyes already in case I fall asleep." ... OK, one part of Nicole seemed to sleep already. Was it her brain?
It was time to get the problem with our missing tickets solved. We quickly looked up some more Russian words and then took the Russian book to go to the conductor. It was all easier than expected. A bit of German, a bit of Russian and we already had our tickets back. We are just geniuses!
At 10.20pm we arrived in Taischet. It rained. Alexej, who picked us up, welcame us in German. We were supposed to stay with him and his wife Tanja for the next two days. In a very small typical Siberian village called Birjusa. No tourists near and far.
After dinner we tried the Russian sauna. What's that? A bathroom. A huge boiler with water, heated by fire and a tub with cold water. 3 big bowls and a small one. One pours hot water in the big bowl and takes cold water with the small bowl and adds it to the hot water. And then just wash. What about the hair? These as well. There was no shower, no sink, not to mention floating water or a toilet. The toilet was at the end of the garden. A small shed with wooden floor. A 25cm hole - everything had to go through that.
We were still awake for a long time in our room. At 5am we went to bed. At 5.30am we switched off the light. But we were still not tired. At 6am the cock crowed. One moaned more than the other. Then we could only laugh. I (Ramona) said:"Now we lay here and stare at the ceiling." and Nicole only answered "Not me. I've closed my eyes already in case I fall asleep." ... OK, one part of Nicole seemed to sleep already. Was it her brain?
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)